Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: woody on April 10, 2007, 04:22:48 pm
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Hi All,
Take a look at the string follow on this bow and let me know if you think it is too severe to make a credible deer hunting bow.
Do you measure set from the back side of the handle or the belly side? - from the back, it is about 4 1/2".
It is Osage, approximately 64" nock-to-nock, and pulls about 55# at 28". I was going for a pyramid design and would have made the limbs a couple of inches longer, but the stave was only 65" total. You'll also notice the tiller is off on the lower limb; I still consider myself a beginner, but I think I am getting better. Practice makes perfect, and I plan on getting a lot of practice. : -) Thanks for your help. By the way, I finished it with linseed and burnishing.
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if you ask my opinion the string follow is because the tiller which is off. I would balance the tiller and reflex the bow with heat. If not reflex then at least balance again, because compression fractures probably will appear on that lower limb if the tiller stays as it is. if the bow is fast enough and quiet enough then it should work for deer.
otherwise nice bow and great craftsmanship.
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I think most of us measure from the belly to the string at rest in the middle of the handle. No doubt you could hunt with that bow though. Very nice finish by the way!
J. D. Duff
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Do you draw a full 28 if not you could cut and inch or so off the bottom limb and re tiller.That is more set than I like but the first bow I took a deer with had about that much.I usually measure mine by laying it on its back and measure the tips, or from the back of the handle to what it is laying on to check the backset.String follow won't hurt the shootin sometimes I think they shoot smoother wit a little it just cuts into the performance. :)
Pappy
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Not bad for a beginner woody, I'm still learning also.
When you tillered did you go slow making sure to exercise the limbs after each wood removal, never draw it past its intended
draw length or weight. All these can cause set. In the full draw pic your pulling to your ear is that your normal anchor point at 28"?
You never want to overdraw yer bow bad things can happen.
I have several white ash bows with 3" of set and they still shoot fine. Good luck and keep us informed eh.
DanaM
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Already a lot of good suggestions...the bow can be improved if you're willing to maybe refinish it. Shortening the lower limb as Pappy suggested will stiffen that limb and will also add some draw weight to the bow. Might would have to tweak the tiller some. If you're satisfied as is, you've shown a lot of talent also in this bow. I like the style of your tips, really nice looking finish, and good grip also.
Should be capable of taking a deer with this weapon. You might follow some of the good advice given already during the tillering process. If you like, reflexing a bow prior to tiller will offset some of the deflex that occurs during tillering. ;)
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Thats alot of set. Was it dry when you tillered it? Lotta my first attempt came out with a buncha set like that. Didn't have a moisture meter so I was guessing on the moisture content(MC). Got one now , helped alot.
If it doesn't explode and shoots an arrow its a bow and goes in the win column as far as I'm concerned.
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I would also challenge that you are pulling the bow 1-3" further back than what you need to. I barely let the string hit the corner of my mouth and then I let 'er rip! Just my opinion though.
Being a beginner as well, I would not settle for less and rework the bow to remove some of the string follow and correct the tiller too! I have two bows I should have reworked but got too anxious to finish them "as is". You have more potential in that bow.
I also agree that the bow has a great finish and will make a sweet hunting bow!!!
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You did a good job on your bow with the exception of the tiller. Did you over draw the bow during tillering? If so you invited set.Very nice job on the tips and finish! You are well on your way to turning out very good bows!
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Woody, You did a fine job on this bow. Building bows without set comes with experience. I have had very few self bows break but have made lots with that kind of set. They all shot arrows and when made, I was very pleased with them...and rightly so. If you are comfortable with the way this bow shoots and feel confident that you can put an arrow where it needs to go to take a deer, the bow has what it takes for a successful hunt.
As far as trying to repair the set, you may be putting more effort than it is worth. Once the wood cells have collapsed(main cause of set) trying to uncollapse them is fruitful.You end up doing more damage to them. I had thought of possibly recurving the tips but that causes more stress.
Enjoy this bow as it is and start your next one. You have plenty of time to build another bow and still be ready for hunting season. As was said above...Start with well seasoned wood, take it slow, exercise the wood with every wood removal, take it slow, remove wood evenly and only where needed, take it slow, don't pull the bow beyond your target weight or draw length and take it slow. Did I mention take it slow? ;) Looking forward to seeing your next bow. Pat
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Congratulations on your bow. I'm from the "if it ain't broke don't fix it school". Enjoy you bow. Since you asked, the upper limb is bending well but needs more bending near the handle. The lower limb is doing most of its bending mid limb. You didn't mention how wide you made it. Where you told the wood was dry? Jawge
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One really out there althernative, that I don't necessarily endorse, would be to cut an inch off either end, sand off finish, and reverse it. Put silt on the belly and re-tiller of what is now the back. Would be interesting to see how it worked. The comment about the draw depth is a good one.
Put silk on belly that is. the other must have seem like some kind of magical rite.
Dave
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Good advice given here. I agree with Jawge , leave it alone. Is that your draw? Bow will still take deer sized animals if you do your part. Measure set like Pappy from back to tips. Good luck on next one , will be a next one Iam sure.............bob
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Thanks everybody for all of the encouragement and advice. I have enjoyed viewing pics of some of your fine craftmenship, and it means a lot to me to read such kind words.
I think I'll do as Kowechobe, George Tsoukalas, and Pat B have suggested and leave it be. Besides, I could be working on another bow. : -)
My draw may be wrong. I haven't been shooting for long and don't know some of the finer points of shooting style or proper positioning or whatever. Could anybody recommend a good shooting book or video that covers these points?
Also, the wood was cut over a year before I began working on it. It was a quarter split stave from a medium diameter tree (don't remember how big it was). It sat in my very dry basement for that time. Moisture probably wasn't a problem. Although, I couldn't say for sure.
The width was 2" at the fade outs tapering in pretty straight lines (there was some propeller twist in the lower limb) to just over 1/2" nocks.
Thanks again.
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The book that tought me about instinctive shooting is..."Instinctive Shooting" by G. Fred Asbel. He believes in a fluid stance and draw and it fit my liking from the start. Fred usually has a few articles in the archery magazines about shooting and solving shooting problems. Easy read and very informative.
With osage, you will fair better with a bow that is narrower than the 2" you used. That may have also added to the suceptability to take set. 1 3/8" to 1 5/8" is usually good for osage, with a straight taper to 3/8"tips. I'm in the process of making an osage bow that is 7/8" to 3/4" for most of its length and 61" long. She pulls 42#@24" but I haven't finished sanding yet so it may be a bit less. If I had concentrated on this splinter I could have easily gotten 45# or more at 26". It doesn't take much osage to make a good bow. Osage has good compression strengths so a thicker but narrow limb is possible and prefered.
Your stave could have had a bit more moisture even after a year. If stave had been taken down to almost bow size it would dry quicker. An old rule of thumb is 1 year per inch of thickness.
Now! go get started with that new bow! ;D Take your time, don't draw it past its ultimate draw length or weight and exercise the limbs between wood removal...and
Take plenty of pics. Pat
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The book that tought me about instinctive shooting is..."Instinctive Shooting" by G. Fred Asbel. He believes in a fluid stance and draw and it fit my liking from the start. Fred usually has a few articles in the archery magazines about shooting and solving shooting problems. Easy read and very informative.
With osage, you will fair better with a bow that is narrower than the 2" you used. That may have also added to the suceptability to take set. 1 3/8" to 1 5/8" is usually good for osage, with a straight taper to 3/8"tips. I'm in the process of making an osage bow that is 7/8" to 3/4" for most of its length and 61" long. She pulls 42#@24" but I haven't finished sanding yet so it may be a bit less. If I had concentrated on this splinter I could have easily gotten 45# or more at 26". It doesn't take much osage to make a good bow. Osage has good compression strengths so a thicker but narrow limb is possible and prefered.
Your stave could have had a bit more moisture even after a year. If stave had been taken down to almost bow size it would dry quicker. An old rule of thumb is 1 year per inch of thickness.
Now! go get started with that new bow! ;D Take your time, don't draw it past its ultimate draw length or weight and exercise the limbs between wood removal...and
Take plenty of pics. Pat
Yes Sir!
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Woody, something to think about that I've always found critical in shooting.
Consider your hand holding the string like you would the rear sight of a rifle. If you vary the location of your anchor point, arrow placement on target will vary as well. Have a consistent anchor that you're comfortable with. I use my middle finger in the right corner of my mouth. My head is also rotated slightly to the right while anchored (I'm right handed).
Also I've found that "follow through" is very important. Try to keep your bow arm solid through and after the shot. Don't drop your arm which is what is normally natural just to get rid of the weight and stress of pulling the bow. I try to keep the bow as if at full draw until the arrow hits the target. Body stance varies between people, but I quarter into the bow. I'm not straight across the shoulders/back area as would be the case for shooting a compound. :)
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looks like too much set. try it under fire at 25 yds,,,,,,,what does it do ????????? if doen't meet the mark, you still can have fun with it,,,,,,, i still have alot of fun with my mistakes........ who said ,,,,no bow is a faliure ?????????..........now work for the hunting bow ,,,,or what ever bow you want//////// ............most clubs have 3D shoots which you can test your bow,,,this is what i do with my new creations,........ best way to test them under fire .........its not good and bad thing,,and forget making bows//////,,,it an ongoing learning experience.....have fun...good luck...my mistakes are disheartening,,,but my sucesses are 10 fold///////////
jpw
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My first bows had alot of set, still get some from time to time, It's a fine bow, shoot it and enjoy it. unless it's a dog when you shoot it you can hunt with it, get your form down and when you're hitting where you want try hunting with it.
I also think the finish is very nice
VB
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Woody, I would check the bows cast, if it has sufficient cast you will feel confident about it's ability to take a deer, if not you can either rework this bow or simply make another , which I imagine you are allready planning on doing anyway. If you can shoot a 500 grain arrow about 150 yards or so deer should be no problem. Your demensions are pretty conservative but I think you may have left it a bit too stiff near the handle, just not quite enough working limb to hadle the stress but still a nice bow. Steve
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hey woody! - don't know whether this was mentioned before, but if i imagine an arrow in the full draw i'd say your draw hand is a good deal above the nockpoind; that may hurt the tiller as well as an overdraw, i guess! that' a lesson i had to learn once... (let's not talk about it 8) )
to the fellow bowyers: i didn't see this mentioned either, and maybe that's stupid: that looks like a simetrical bow; wouldn't it make sence to have the bow upside down??
woddy, that's not a bad beginner's bow at all! yes, keep trying: lot of fun in getting better ;D ;D ;D ;D
frank
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I would still try to correct it with some good belly tempering and little tiller touch up, can't hurt it and if anything else will be good practice, both for the eye and the use of tools, ...never enougth practice.
piking and switching top and bottom limbs migth be a good way to correct the bo too.