Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: PeteDavis on September 21, 2010, 10:08:02 pm
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My little Rudderbows book suggests putting string pass @ 1" up from true center once the weaker/stronger limbs are established for upper/lower.
I think Dean Torges suggests 1.5".
What say ye and rationale, if possible. Is there a limit really?
PD
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No disrespect,,, but there are two completely different train of thoughts here between Dean and Jim. I got more from Jim,, I just wanted a bow to shoot ,Dean taught me to retrace my steps and enjoy the ride IMHO JEFFW
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Well I see 1/2 inch between them LOL. Please elucidate~
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I go 1.25 in. above center. But I go lower if I want to strengthen the bottom limb a bit. At 1.25 in I feel that, with the split finger draw, the pressure is about even around the mid string area. Jawge
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i also go 1.25"
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i go one inch and i hold the bow with the web of my hand instead of flat handed , always figured i was puttin the pressure in the center of the bow. here lately i havent been puttin any rest on half the time .
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Before i started making my own bows and was shooting fiberglass recurves and longbows. I would buy a bow that had the shelf real close to my hand. I was told my a old archer that is something to look for in a bow and they will shoot a lot better. I tuck my middle finger in the corner of my mouth for a anchor point.....The middle finger is a straightline to the shelf.....Now I am new to primitive archery and have a few under my belt....I read about the shelf being 1" to 1 1/2" above center and I had the same question you did....Then I thought to myself why not just custom fit it two your own hand. I put the the middle of my palm on the center line and grip the bow. Then I mark a line just above my pointer finger.......thats where I put my rest. When I measure my middle and pointer finger together its almost a 1 1/2". Maybe the rudderbow guy got skinny fingers.....lol....I say make it work for you
Jon
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I go 1.25 in. above center. But I go lower if I want to strengthen the bottom limb a bit. At 1.25 in I feel that, with the split finger draw, the pressure is about even around the mid string area. Jawge
What George said, but look at the details of what he said. Tiller makes a difference in where the pass is placed. Both Jim and Dean are correct, or they could both be wrong depending on how the bow is tillered.
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Probably about and inch or so.I just shoot the bow and find the sweet spot and that's where I put it. Never measure anything out on it. I do this before I put the grip on and mark it and go from there with the grip and cut in ,if I decide to cut it in at all. :)
Pappy
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Whatever looks/feels right. I generally mark it out roughly then tiller the bow to suit. Ill then shoot the bow adjusting the grip to get it feeling right. The arrows leave a mark* where they kiss the bow (I use special dirty arrows for this process ;)) and that's where I'll inlay the arrow plate after any necessary adjustment.
* The position of that mark can sometimes be a bit away from where you'd expect, I find it is nearer the belly that one might otherwise position the arrow plate.
Like a lot of stuff there is no 'right and wrong', you make it how you make it, I personally go for short grips with the bottom of the grip where the heel of my hand sits tailing off into the fade.
Del
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I never measured but I went out and checked a few and I go from about 1 1/4 to 1 3/4, I usually adjust tiller after setting my hand placement location. I honestly can't see where it would make much difference if the tiller is adjust accordingly. Steve
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I sure wish I would have the kind of mind controll that these small differences could make a difference that could be seen!
Keep it simple ! Keep it fun !!!
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I agree with Steve. As long as the limbs are tillered to balance where your hand goes I don't think it matters where the arrow pass lies according to the center of the bow. How far BELOW center is the Japanese Yumi? :)
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i thought that with a stiff handle it does not matter, but with a d shaped or bend in the handle bow, the arrow nock needs to be closer to center. i don't know for sure, it's just what i've read, but it makes sense. i do like like Pappy does. i just put it here or there and shoot the bow. if it shoots well, i stick with it. ususally about 1.5 to 2 inches above center.
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Well, I think it may matter. When you surround the center point of the string with your fingers you are putting the same amount of pressure on both limbs perhaps resulting in a better release. Of course, this is speculation on my part. I just go out and shoot and halve a good time. :) Jawge
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A lot of good ideas. Just to throw a little more wood on the fire; we all know the english longbows often had a top limb 1 1/2" or longer than the bottom and tended to be shot with a three finger release--2 fingers below the arrow and one above, for these two factors the bottom limb would necessarily have to be stronger. On the other hand, the shorter native american bows with equal limb length were usually shot with either a primary or augmented release, which ever so slightly, would give a different distribution of stress, and center point, when the bow is drawn. I wonder how many of us today consider that when we tiller our replica native bows, and then use a three finger release when shooting?
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I build my bows symmetrically. The center of the bow is the center of the handle. I also like a bulbous handle with the widest part of the handle in the center. For the arrow pass I grasp the handle like I was shooting and place a pencil line at the top of my hand. That is where the arrow pass goes. I use this for stiff handle and bendy handle bows.
For the string nocking point I go 3/8" above horizontal to start and adjust from there. I nock the arrow above the string nock.
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Hrothgar, I think the shorter the bow the more it matters where your arrow pass is. Pat, so you shoot a couple of inches above center? Whatever works. Jawge
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Jawge, I agre on the short bows, on short bows I set my center right in the web of my hand and shoot off the top of mand. Steve