Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: 15yearold.archer on October 15, 2010, 01:17:58 am
-
Hey guys well after seing that red horn bow that won this month. And a few other similair ones in the past I really want something similar. Is it possible with my experience being only 15 to build a horn bow or just a really short high performing bow that pulls right to 28 for under 100$ if so does anyone think they can satisfy me I'm really stuck here. More or less id like a horn bow but I have nooo clue where to start. can anyone help me pleasee
-
well, what ive learned, with a bow that short, your gonna need lots of patience to get it right. youll want to practice gluing up stuff, making joints that fit tightly.. theres a lot involved. personally, im not sure you can do it for under 100. if you dont have the proper tools, youll have to buy them. buying horn, sinew, hide glue, wood.. it can get up there. practice getting your self bows shorter and short as you make them, that way you get practice getting tiller correct
-
I don't see why it can't be done. I believe Timo won BOM a while back with a buffalo horn composite plains style bow. I don't think buffalo horn is that expensive...
If your glue up skills are up to speed and you take the time to make sure each step is right, why not?
-
Hmmm... yes and no. Yes, you could do it, especially if you approached it carefully. For under $100? I'm not sure.
If you want a short performance bow, why not just a sinew backed bow with curves? Not just recurves, all sorts of curves >:D? Or bamboo backed ipe. Both of those will make some speedy little devils, but for alot less. Also, you'd probably be able to make two or maybe even three for the money, so by the last one you'll have the rocket launcher you were looking for >:D
-
gonna side with Keegan on this one, BBI is fast and good looking too, tools are minimal and cost is reasonable.
JEFF
-
I'm not even sure where to start with something like thay all I've ever made are self bows and as for the curving I've only ever flipped tips does anyone wanna lead me in this even as far back as where to get materials and thanks for your advice so far!
-
http://poorfolkbows.com/ipe1.htm
This is a good link for the Ipe.
Jeff
-
I'm not even sure where to start with something like thay all I've ever made are self bows and as for the curving I've only ever flipped tips does anyone wanna lead me in this even as far back as where to get materials and thanks for your advice so far!
To put the curves in a BBI, all you need is a form cut from a 2x6 in the shape you want (probably something with deflex in the handle and reflex/recurve in the limbs). You clamp the bow onto it when you glue the pieces together and it hols much of the shape when dry.
For a sinew backed bow you would heat a section of the bow and bend it, using a form most likely here too, and then let it cool. You repeat until you have the shape you want. Woods like Osage, elm, vine maple, and even hickory can take this abuse well without breaking, where a red oak board might not fair so well. Either way, once you get the shape you just sinew it and apply any remainig reflex. Let it dry, and there you go. A little more involved than a BBI, but still a good option.
-
So I could do that 2x6 form idea with boo and ipe? And how short could I get away with also what would this form look like just a rough idea or drawing maybe I'm a little confused oh and sorry but one last thing if you have a riser glued on how do you deflex the handle. .and do you NEED sinew
-
Ken45 recently posted a gull winged 49" hickory epe bow, check it out, it's a sweet looking bow
-
Depending on the draw, you could probably go with 2:1 for bow length to draw length. Especially if you make it semi-bendy handle, possibly less.
For what the form looks like I can get you pictures of the form I have for glassies, it has a nice R/D shape to it. Bit longer, but close enough.
For the handle, you can glue the belly strip and the backing together with a power lam/wedge between the two so it's stiffer. For a shorter bow, you'll most likely want a thinner handle that's a little wider than normal. It would result in a lower net brace height so less stress.
No, with boo and ipe you do not need sinew.
-
If you look though DKnight's posts you can find quite a few short BBI's he's made. Those short ones with all that reflex and deflex can be tough to tiller but screwing up some bows is part of the fun ;D For a hundred bucks you could probably get enought ipe and bamboo/hickory to do at least have 3 attempts. Or you might want to see what kind of regional resources you have that might be valuable in trade and then you'd have access to plenty of material for relatively little cost.
-
Guys, would you stop responding to this kid's posts?!?! You are only encouraging him!
XV, starting with a sinew backed bow would be a good step towards a highly complex horn bow. If you need sinew and hide glue, I'd recommend that guy in the classified section of PA magazine, Michael Foltmer. His prices are pretty fair and in my experience, his product quality if top shelf stuff.