Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: CherokeeKC on January 04, 2011, 11:36:49 pm
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I have researched arrow finishes and have come up with a list. I am trying to categorize them in dull/shiny category and primitive/modern category. Is this list correct and since i have not experimented with all of these can someone help me put them in a dull/shiny category? Also if you have any more to add to the list please do.
Primitive
1) Bear Grease
2) Bacon Grease
3) Mineral Oil
4) 1 Part Wax (Beeswax) to 3 Part Animal Grease
5) Linseed Oil
6) Tung Oil
Modern
7) Tru-Oil
8) Shellac
9) 2 Ton Epoxy thinned with Acetone
10) Paraffin
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Most of the primitive finishes will give a dull finish except built up coats of linseed or tung oils. Pine pitch varnish works well too. Just dissolve hard pitch in alcohol, strain it and use it.
With the modern finishes Tru-Oil is shiny as is Massey finish. Shellac is semi shiney and parafin is a flat dull finish.
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I just wipe Spar Urethane on my arrow shafts (modern finish). You can get it in either satin (dull) or gloss (shiny).
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A buddy gave me some "Crystal Fin" that I have been using,it's white and dries clear. I have not seen it at walmart or home depot. I think it's some kinda poly, but don't know. Really great arrow finish. Definitely modern stuff. Thin and totally water repellent.Dries pretty quik. (I have a pint of it). Last a long time. ' Frank
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Frank,have you tried the "crystal fin" on a bow yet? Sounds like a good water resistant finish. ;) God Bless
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Sounds really interesting, so I looked it up on the internet.
"Daly's CrystalFin Polyurathane/Acrylic Clear Finish dries to a clear, non-toxic non-yellowing protective finish extremely resistant to marring, scuffing, alcohol, boiling water, and most interior household cleaners. CrystalFin is non-flammable and contains no petroleum distillates."
They go on to say it just needs soap and water to clean up. 30 min dry to touch, 2 hrs recoat, 24 hrs for light use, 7 days for heavy use.
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Will blood work? I heard that some NA painted their bows with blood, and that blood is mildly water repelant?
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Thanks for all the replies!
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Have not finished a bow with crystal fin yet.I think it would work really well though. ' Frank
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Good topic. I have researched finishes also, and I'd like to add my two cents. ;D
Waterproof Primitive Finishes:
Dull
Beeswax
Animal Fat
Shiny
Rosin
Drying oil (tung, walnut, linseed, etc)
Wood Tar
Crude Oil Tar
Shellac
Shiny or Dull
Mixtures of the above
Non-Waterproof Primitive Finishes:
Protein (blood, egg white, hide glue, bone glue, fish glue, etc)
Plant Juice (non-conifer tree sap, cactus juice, etc)
These finishes can be shiny or dull depending on the pigments added. They tend to be shiniy if no pigments are added.
Modern Finishes:
Everything Else
Shellac and drying oils are not easy to make... so I tend to think of these as modern finishes when I'm making reproductions. Also, anything with mineral oil is modern.
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Ok, just supposing a bear were to stop by my house and stand still long enough for me to milk a pint of bear grease of him....I wouldn't want to apply that to the arrow shaft before glueing on arrows right? So how do you seal the shaft without gooping up the fletching trying to cover all the wood? I'm plumb confustulated!!!
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you fletch first then seal around the fletching. That's how I do with pitch varnish.
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I guess that's why I avoid using the greases/oils on arrows and go with a more modern finish...too lazy.
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If you are gluing feathers down with natural glues (hide glue, etc.) it is a good idea to glue the feathers down to a bare shaft and then seal around them with the finish of your choice. However, if you are going to tie them down you can finish the shaft first then simply rough up the shaft at each end of the fletching where the binding will go. A spiral wrap through the fletching will hold them to the shaft, and can be done over the top of the finish.
The only modern finish I have used is water-based Varathane. It can be wiped on, but also works really well for dipping shafts. Goes on milky and somewhat thick, dries clear, hard, and thin, and comes in gloss, semi-gloss, satin, flat, etc... And because it is water-based, it doesn't have a strong odor to it. As far as fletching glue goes, I used both Fletchtite and Duco Cement with good results.
For primitive finishes, I have used animal grease on its own and mixed with beeswax. I prefer the mix, as it seems to offer better moisture protection with fewer applications, though with a slight bit of gloss compared to grease alone.
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I used to use minwax wipe on poly. Lately I've been using linseed oil on every thing. Amazing stuff, stops rust on metals as well as a good wood finish!
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In the "modern" category I've used Watco Oil on arrows and bows. It's "Danish Oil", the label says "a unique blend of penetrating oils and varnish". Probably proprietary, someone else may know the real recipe. Whatever, I like it for a one step finish and stain, comes in different wood colors. It's more dull than shiny, an oil finish look.
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Thanks for the input guys!