Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Frode on January 22, 2011, 05:29:24 pm
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Hi all,
I'm working up a stiff levered Mollegabet-ish thing, hickory backed elm, about 66" or so, hoping to be somewhere in the 40-50# range. Here's my question;
Somewhere in the recesses of my cobwebbed memory, I think I recall someone using pegs as nocks, something like this;
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/frode_bucket/runabout/runaboutpegs.jpg)
http://s1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/frode_bucket/runabout/?action=view¤t=runabout.mp4 (http://s1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/frode_bucket/runabout/?action=view¤t=runabout.mp4)
Is this a crazy idea? I'm thinking since the lever isn't bending, drilling into the back might not have the dire consequences of a bending tip, but... ???
Has anyone seen anything like this, or am I tripping?
As always, your learned observations are greatly appreciated,
Frode
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I've never seen anything like your illustration Frode .... but ....try it .... someone's got to do it for the first time ... be interesting to see the results.
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Give it a try....but wear safety glasses and a nutcup!
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Have never seen that before. Like you said its a non-bending section, if the pegs aren't too close together and the holes aren't too large/deep, I don't think it will weaken the limb any, and the string should be good. Let us know how it shoots.
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I would be nervous that the pegs will shear off.
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Also, how will you get the string loop over the peg to brace your bow?
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@adb; The exposed length of the peg would only be about 3/16"-1/4", virtually the same as a low tip overlay, so if I size the string loop accordingly, it should slip over OK. Also, I much prefer (for me) to use a stringer (I'm a bit clumsy, so the more feet on the ground, the better), so the outer peg mostly serves to keep the stringer away from the bowstring (see below). Sounds good in my head, anyway :D.
@ Gordon; I agree, initially, I was thinking of a steel roll pin, say, 1/8" in diameter, drilled and epoxied into the lever about 1/2". Not exactly primitive, but then some "Viking" bows had an iron nail driven into them to set string length, and keep the unstrung loop from dropping away, or so I've read. I'm imagining the brunt of the force would go right into the narrow vee of the pin, and that over time, the string could effectively saw the peg off, if it were wood. Hmmm. I sound like I'm talking myself out of it, don't I?
@JW; OK, so I'm a little nervous now :o :D
@Horace and Hrothgar; Thanks for the encouragement, though now I'm going to have to think just a bit more on this one before I break out the drill. It is just a piece of wood, but it sure is a purty piece of wood, so...
Thanks,
Frode
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It just came to me! A very talented gent over on Paleoplanet named David Brunetta put a post through his skeletip flight bow, but on his, the post went through from side to side, and was well below the back lamination. It is a terrific looking bow, and a winning flight shooter. I'm not quite sure what the post does, but it sure looks right!
I'm slow, but eventually I get there :-\.
Frode
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Looks feasible to me, I'd use a pretty small peg and taper it, fitting into a tapered hole, there shouldn't be much strain on the peg, oddly the strain on the peg will get less the more you draw it as the string angle changes. EG at full draw if the string makes an angle of 90degrees with the tip there would be no strain on the peg at all. Of course there would be some strain on the limb tip tying to breakit at the hole, but there's not much leverage.
Could look cool, I look forward to your learned paper on the results ;D.
Del
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While I agree with Del that the pegs would likely withstand normal stresses, I try to employ bow designs that will endure an occasional dry-fire (because they happen). I question that the pegs, if made of wood, would survive such an event. But there is one sure way to find out, I look forward to your results.
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@Del and Gordon; Thanks, gents! I was starting to back away from this one, but you've got me thinking, this is probably worth making at least one set of tomato stakes to prove out (that and I'm almost out of bows to work on), so I think I'll finish out the hickory/elm in a more conventional manner, then start a new one specifically to test out pegs and such.
This should be interesting!
Frode