Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: SiongSA on March 12, 2011, 03:12:23 pm
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Just cut a white stave its 55inch and about 2.5 inches wide nice and straight, wanted to make a molly, is it fees-able to make one this small? if not what other design would you suggest making, any dimensions?
Sion
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Holmies and Molles are two different bow styles. Check out Half eye's(Rich) threads. He has successfully made quite a few Molles that short and shorter I believe.
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i wouldnt go for a molly design on such a short stave. remember that a mollegabet bow only has short working limbs and if you attempt a molly with such a short stave you will end up with a very short drawlength. I would make a pyramid flatbow with wide limbs or a simple D bow.
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Holmies and Molles are two different bow styles. Check out Half eye's(Rich) threads. He has successfully made quite a few Molles that short and shorter I believe.
Well if it can be done i'll try it, do you have any links to half eye's threads?
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Send Rich (half eye) a PM, he has been very helpful to me. He has successfully made a 39" molle. He did make it from quarter sawn lumber though, rather than a stave...I think.
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dropped rich a pm, thanks guys
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,17521.0.html
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Rich made me a 63" ntn Molle that draws 30" with no problem at all.
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Rich made me a 63" ntn Molle that draws 30" with no problem at all.
Yeah, but Rich is what we call a "bow whisperer". If I tried that I'd make a nice batch of kindling. What I wouldn't give to spend a long weekend in his shop with him.
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Rich made me a 63" ntn Molle that draws 30" with no problem at all.
It is a red elm self bow.
Yes Rich has a way with wood.
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With a stave that size your limited with your draw length. Also the high crown will limit your width as well and the holmegaard design at this short a length would require limbs wider than what your stave can offer. I'd suggest a d-bow so that your utilizing as much working wood as possible. Most people would suggest not narrowing a working handle but if you could design the bow to be 2" wide for the inner 1/2 of the limb length and narrow the handle to a more comfortable 1.5", the extra limb width would make the bow much less stressed. Then narrowing the outer half of the limb length to an eiffel tower shape and keeping the last few inches stiff in the tiller would be what I would consider a good design for that length with a max draw length of 26". That's what I would do but I'm not sure if the bow would end up being 2" wide because of the crown of the stave.
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With a stave that size your limited with your draw length. Also the high crown will limit your width as well and the holmegaard design at this short a length would require limbs wider than what your stave can offer. I'd suggest a d-bow so that your utilizing as much working wood as possible. Most people would suggest not narrowing a working handle but if you could design the bow to be 2" wide for the inner 1/2 of the limb length and narrow the handle to a more comfortable 1.5", the extra limb width would make the bow much less stressed. Then narrowing the outer half of the limb length to an eiffel tower shape and keeping the last few inches stiff in the tiller would be what I would consider a good design for that length with a max draw length of 26". That's what I would do but I'm not sure if the bow would end up being 2" wide because of the crown of the stave.
thats sounds good, but maybe if i chase a ring on the back i be able to get it nice and wide, what do you think, chased ring without backing?