Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Tom on April 23, 2011, 08:45:08 pm
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Hi all, new to the board but been lurking and pinching tips for a while already ;)
I've just about finished my current project and have started looking at my next stave. Its a monster that started as a full round and so far all I've done is square off the profile. Its 8ft of Hazel running 1 3/4" wide now she's square. Got a bit of a curve to her but nothing too major.
Trouble is, cant decide what to do with it. Keep it long and go for a higher weight or go sensible...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/Siliconwombat/_MG_0182.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/Siliconwombat/_MG_0181.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/Siliconwombat/_MG_0183.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/Siliconwombat/_MG_0184.jpg)
What would you try to get out of her?
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English Loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong bow? ;D ;D
Just kidding. I would think you could get a nice D style out of that though.
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If It was mine, I'd cut it to 68" or so and try to get about 70# @ 26", after I steamed the handle straight. Just curious why you didn't use it the other way around so you had natural reflex? Was there a branch in the way or?
There is a nice bow in there for sure, if you wanted to get silly you could make a war bow......might be fun to get silly, I try to do so on a regular basis ;D
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I'd make it about 64" ntn, leave limbs full width ( 1 3/4"), heat treat the belly, and reflex the outer limbs to make an RD profile. Stiff handle and keep the belly flat or a mild radius. You should be able to get a decent hunting weight bow out of that stave.
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Thought about trying to use the reflex but when I gave her some flex before squaring, it didn't feel right, if you know what I mean ???
Think I'll see how a 70" cut would sit on her and go from there... Tempting to go longer and heavier but realistically I wouldn't be able to use it. :(
Thanks for the suggestions ;)
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Thought about trying to use the reflex but when I gave her some flex before squaring, it didn't feel right, if you know what I mean ???
Think I'll see how a 70" cut would sit on her and go from there...
Trouble with cutting such a long stave down to 70" is choosing which end to cut it off... ;D
I'd chop off any ungainly twist or lateral bend, leaving as much straightness as possible
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What would I do with it?
Would take a while but there's firewood in there somewhere ;D
Lane
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The back of the bow is very humpy-bumpy. Unless you're working with Osage, it could be quite the challenge and I fear that it wouldn't hold up. Also, let's face it; it is deflexed quite a bit. Most white woods even if starting out very straight or even with some reflex will end up with an unacceptable amount of string follow when completed. However, I know what it is like to have a piece of wood calling to you. How about this...
Instead of chasing a growth ring to establish the back how about squaring or flattening the back as best as you can and glueing a hickory or bamboo backing to the stave. Prior to gluing the backing of choice, push the bow "board" into a reflexed position. Then apply the backing while the board is in the reflexed position. You can build a clamping jig to accomplish this. When the glue dries, it will maintain its reflexed state. Continue with the tillering process to make your bow.
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This is the trouble, so many good options ;D
A laminate might be fun and would be a first for me but is highly likely to result in firewood...
To make her to length Ill take a little off each end as neither is perfect.
More thinking to be done..... thanks for the suggestions.
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IMO Hazel is best made wide and flat. Have a look at the Hazel bows on my website (click on the globe sybol under my username)
Del
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So far with all the comments and suggestions(including mine), I like Gordon's idea the best ;D. 1.75" wide is lots of wood especially if you heat treat the belly. You have lots of length to work with. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
Darcy :)