Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: jham on May 31, 2011, 04:31:25 pm
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Just got back with a red oak board, wanting some recommendations for layout. Im planning on 68" ntn, 40-45lbs @ my draw of 29 inches. I have been reading on this site for a long time now, and know you guys are awesome at making bows. I have some maple pieces Im going to try to glue onto the handle area and use for nock overlays. Im hoping that this can turn out to be a nice bow, if not I will keep trying. Any recommendations on width at the fades? Thinking a pryamid style with a small arrow shelf built in. Thanks for any help
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hello, im up to the same thing right now as well, i found this VERY helpful ;) enjoy http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=002064;p=1
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I read that one last night, thanks ;D I know that one was overbuilt, and was a heavier bow. I was wondering if I could go down to 2", but my tablesaw just threw the belt and pulley off trying to cut some of the maple. ??? So until I can get Dad to help fix it I guess I will leave it 2.5".
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Id go with 2" fades straight tapering to 3/8 inch nocks. 8" non bending handle section...( 4 inch handle and 2 inch fades)... 66" long since it is your first attempt. If you tiller carefully and slow this design will make a very fast hard-hitting bow... Good luck:)
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Id go with 2" fades straight tapering to 3/8 inch nocks. 8" non bending handle section...( 4 inch handle and 2 inch fades)... 66" long since it is your first attempt. If you tiller carefully and slow this design will make a very fast hard-hitting bow... Good luck:)
That goes double for me......................except I would add 6" of length to it for your draw. I have built long and short oak board bows and they all stayed together fine, but the longer ones took on very little set and kept their initial "zing" a little more so than the shorter bows. Just my .0124735412 cents.
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this red oak bow is 2" at the fades down to 3/8" tips 66" @27" it's 40#, I riped the belly thickness on the tablesaw to the start of the fades and finished up on the bandsaw, I cut the limb @ 9/16" thick, but you can go a touch thicker to be safe,this board was quartersawn but with a good board you will be fine, hope this helps, Bub(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/blade006-4.jpg)
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so far I have the rough outline cut out, went with 68" ntn,2.5" at the fades and 1/2" at the tips, may take the tips down some later. My plan to use maple on the handle didnt work out, killed the table saw trying to cut a block out of a small piece of firewood lol. I already see a few things I'm not happy with, will do it a little differently on the next bow. Putting a bandsaw on my wishlist, still not sure how I'm going to thin down the limbs. May end up taking a d/a sander to them.
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You can thin them with a rasp/draw knife and scraper,A band saw is great and I use one all the time but I have built many years back without one. Just a little slower and it's not a race. :) Don't let not having a band saw hold you back. :)
Pappy
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Your first bow they aways has a special place in your heart. GOOD LUCK
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Hey guys,
the only good boards (red oak) I've been able to find so far are only and 1 3/4" wide. How would you do the thickness and lay out on that? i'm hoping for around 50# - 60# at 25" .
Thanks
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Thanks ScottD,
it may be 1 1/2" now that i think about it.....and i did get it from Lowes. I'd like to make it without gluing on a riser too.....just like the looks of it better that way.
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hardwood suppliers are a better bet for good boards, and in my experiance they are generaly less spendy for higher quality wood, plus their are way more options, Bub
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Hey Bub,
there's a place here that I think I could get some good wood from, but Lowes is on my way home from work and I decided to stop by there and see what they had. If this turns out good, I'll go to the other place and see what they have.
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well day 2 I finished shaping around the handle and started thinning the limbs. Its starting to look like a bow even if its not bending yet
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jham, you can cut the bow out with a skillsaw if you are proficent with one, or find a buddy with a table saw or bandsaw, or ya can reduce it with a hatchet, surform or anything that will remove wood, Bub
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I cut around the outline with a skill saw, but left about 1/4 in to be safe. took that down with a finger plane and rasp. the belly I narrowed using a belt sander. Its about ready for a long string now. Have to go get a pulley and some cord to use as a long string and I will start tillering, may need yall's help on that.
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i always find straight grained 1/2" x 2" x 4' which can make a 40-50lb shorty. And easy and fun to practice tillering and trying to get the lowest set.
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Yeah those little boards are awesome to make shortbows out of. I've made a 55# hunting shorty out of one of those 3 dollar boards...
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ok time for an update, been taking plenty of breaks but also have done some work on it. put a long string on it and rigged up a tillering tree. when do I need to switch from a rasp to a scraper? Im asking because it is still stiff at the fades, mostly bending midlimb. one side starts bending about 5-6 in out from the handle, the other starts 7-8 in out. Ive tried drawing lines on the stiff portion then scraping smooth but dont want to remove too much wood. I think I still have plenty to work with but wanted opinions. right now I have about 2-3 in of tip movement as Im working it, but I am not applying much force as I want to get the limbs bending more even before I try to stress anything.
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I suggest a bend in the handle bow for you first. Info on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
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build yourself a tillering gizzmo, it's on the how to page, it will help you a bunch, Bub
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My bow building has been on kind of a hiatus while I've been working in the garden, but im back started on it now. Had to change out the pulley on my tree as the old one was too far from the tree, which could cause it to twist. Now I have another pulley that will work a lot better. How good does the tiller need to be on the long string before I shorten it up? Right now its stiff coming out of the fades and at the tips, most of the bend seems to be in the mid limbs. I dont want to string it too soon and hinge it or cause extra set. Should I keep it on the long string and even it out some or go for broke and string it with the regular string?