Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: snag on June 02, 2011, 06:33:30 pm
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Any property differences? Do you have a preference for putting a good finish on a bow? Thanks, David
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I prefer tru oil... I think that it gives a better finish and is easier to apply.
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Tru Oil all the way man! Don't waste your time with anything else unless you just want a quickie then I use spray on semi gloss polyurethane. But if you want a beautiful lasting lustrous finish use Tru oil.
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Whats in Tru oil, Cant buy this in the uk. is it similar to dainish oil? or better? I usually use danish oil, but always looking for something better
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Whats in Tru oil, Cant buy this in the uk. is it similar to dainish oil? or better? I usually use danish oil, but always looking for something better
I buy mine online. Look up Birchwood Casey products, they are the ones who make it and they have a complete line of wood refinishing products and also blue/rust remover for firearm refinishing. They make the good stuff!
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Dragonman, Tru-Oil is a linseed oil gun stock finish with Japan dryers and other additives. It is more of a surface finish than tung oil is.
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Tru Oil all the way man! Don't waste your time with anything else unless you just want a quickie then I use spray on semi gloss polyurethane. But if you want a beautiful lasting lustrous finish use Tru oil.
tung oil, gives a nice furniture qaulity finish
the more you use the better the finish,plus the more you use the more resitant it becomes
plus its as easy as tru oil to apply
wipe on , let dry,hit lightly with xxxx steel wool
repeat as many times as desired
i like to use between 10-15 coats
my bows and knife handles look incredible,plus water just beads up and runs off
i have a bow thats been hunting with my several times now in the rain,never has soaked up water and never had to reapply since it was first put on ;)
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Dang Sailordad, now with that endorsement I am going to be forced to go out and pick some up and give it a try. Any particular brand or mix?
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i like HOMER FORMBYS TUNG OIL
they make a regular (higher gloss) and a low gloss finish
i dont see a differance between the two at all
like i said they do give a "furniture like finish" so they will be glossy
but with enoug coats its a very very durable finish(just like on furniture)
if you rub the first coat or two in,like the motion used for applying wax to a car
it helps it penetrate the pores of the wood and then as more is applied it builds up a nice water resistant finish ;)
my father inlaw taught me this
hes retired now but was a custom carpenter for 50+ years
specialized in making cabinents and such and thats what he used on them
and suggested it to me when i started this backwards journey of mine ;D
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I prefer Tung Oil as well.
At first I make a priming with shellac, 3 - 4 coats, then the finish with tung oil, again 3 - 4 applications.
Between every layer I make a interim grinding with very fine sandpaper.
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Thanks for the tips guys, do find that burnishing (something I've started to do on my bows with a polished bit of antler wrapped in leather) affects how "open" the pores of the wood are and how receptive it is to Tung oil or Tru-oil?
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burnishing will makd it harder for the first couple of coats to soak in
but after that the dry time should be better as the finish is just building up on itself
i burnished a b/i elb
then applied tung oil
i do my finish work in a small room that has its own heater and dehumidifier in it
i keep it at about 72* and keep it dry in there
it tokk 4 days for that first coat to set up properly
but damn if it dont look like glass after about 12 coats
finish is so deep it looks like you could reach into it
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Im a Tru Oil guy all the way, mostly because I wouldnt ask anything more of it. So why change?
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Im a Tru Oil guy all the way, mostly because I wouldnt ask anything more of it. So why change?
Same here, no scrubbing, rubbing, or polishing to get it down in the pores....ect.
Just wipe, let dry, buff with 0000 steel wool, and repeat for as many coats as you want, but then what the heck do I know? ::)
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On a side note: My gunsmith friend told me to try a Tru Oil slurry one time if I really want a nice finish. He told me to work a small area at a time with 220 grit paper while the oil is still wet. It creates a slurry and fills the pores fast and even. Let it dry, smooth it back down and add your regular amount of wipe on coats. I bet Tung oil would work the same, maybe?
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That makes sense SD, I just started to burnish all my bows, belly & back and have liked what it appears to do for them. I'm not 100% sure what, if anything, it does for performance or longevity of a bow but I'll likely continue the practice. I did notice my last Hick/ERC only took 2 coats of Tru-oil before it started to build up nicely...which for "thirsty" ERC was fairly impressive.
Thanks for sharing your tips.
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I like the pure Tung Oil from Woodcraft. Much thicker than Tru-oil, if you want to speed up the drying warm the oil up to about 110 degrees, then when you put it on rub briskly with palm of hand until it gets hot. Pure Tung oil is more durable than Tru-oil and will not come out shiny like Formby's. Formby's has driers added. To really make a bow weather proof, fill the pores with 3lb cut shellac and sand back to wood. Then apply your oil finish.
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I use shellac and tung oil as well. Never tried Tru-oil.
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Good stuff guys. Before I read all the replies I was in the shop and got out the Tru-oil. Really makes the color and grain come out in the osage. I'll have to try the shellac and tung oil on another bow. Thanks, David
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Good choice David you won't be disappointed in the results. Did you ever decide on a stain color or just go natural?
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I decided to let it go natural, with the slightly scorched edges and all. I did make a plastic tent and put the bow in it with jars of ammonia. Really helped give the wood that golden aged look. I took it out and let it dry to room humidity for about a week. I think I'm going to like the Tru-oil too! Already started another bow and the finish isn't even dry on this one.
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Snag, I'm doing the same with Tru-oil on my Osage Trade Bow. Got the handle wrapped with black leather, black horn overlays on and dressed it up with some black fly-tying thread wrap on both limbs about 8" up from the tips. I probably should have done all the Tru-oil coats before I put the leather on but I got carried away when the wrap fit nicely ::)
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Sounds good! I'll put some leather on the grip after the oil finish is done. That will be another first for me.
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The para cord grip I did on my last BBO sure turned out nice, I kinda like that a little better than a leather wrap myself. In some cases though a leather handle wrap just looks right on a particular style of bow, especially ELB's.
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Well David , sounds like you went with the tru-oil! It is a prefered finish by alot of folks! I have use on arrow and gun stocks, blackpowder guns! Although, I have had probllems with the finish, darkening when compressed, like arrows in the gripper of a quiver!
I have known Gary Davis since 1987, and he has used Formbys tung oil finish, for years! He would dip each limb to the handle and hang to dry. Then do the other limb. up to 7 coats! I have 3 of Gary's bows and the finish is very good , and can be touched up! Steel wooled to cut the sheen, too!
He is the Osage God Father! ;D
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Dipping in Tung oil...? Now I've got to make a larger dip tube! I do this when making arrows. Might have to try that. Just make a dip tube out of PVC.
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Yeah David. That's how he use to do it. That's why he would dip only one limb at a time! Finish is great!