Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: johnston on June 12, 2011, 02:10:39 pm
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Can't seem to get satisfied with this one. It was not supposed to get this far and I'm scared of it. Think that's why I can't nail it down.
Red oak board w/maple handle..64" ttt 1 9/16" at the fades more or less straight taper to 9/16" at bottom of fat pin nocks. Cut in shelf, 3/8 deep. The board grain is backwards and runs off to the likker store every which way. Probably has 9 run offs. It is a piece of the first board I ever bought for a bow and has been on my Miscellaneous Junk pile since I realized how bad it was.
Ain't heard any ticks and have checked it over after every step. Don't know if I should shoot it a little, take off a bit on the bottom limb or back it before either.
Posting it for advice seemed like a good idea. I wanted 40-45 lbs at 25" and in the last pic it is 48 or so at 24" so I got a little room. Thanks for the help.
Lane(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h418/EarlLane/backed003.jpg)(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h418/EarlLane/backed008.jpg)(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h418/EarlLane/backed010.jpg)
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It looks ok to me. You might be experiencing tiller fatigue. It does look like the left limb has some twist to it and the right limb might be prop twisting slightly the other way. If so then it looks ok. Try turning the bow the other way to see it from the other side and if it is a slight prop twist. If so its fine. And next time make your fades a lil smoother and not as steep into the limb.
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Lane,
I'm with Blackhawk, that tiller is very symetrical (limb to limb) and ought to shoot fine.
rich
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I think it looks fine too, bottom limb slightly positive tiller so it should shoot great! Now get to flingin some arras!
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In agreement with all the above. That prop twist will mess with your eyes, make a limb look stiffer than it is, throw off the symmetry. I face-palmed (then a big sigh of relief!) the first time i turned it around as suggested and realized all was well ::)
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I would back it with silk because its easy, quick and gives a lot of protection for little work, then get it drawn in hand whilst a timer or a friend takes a photo, then correct tiller if needed and shoot it in a while atleast a 100 arrows, recheck tiller and finish.
On some of my bows i have seen tiller points that could have been improved if i had let the bow settle before impatiently getting it finished and shiney :). I now try to think of the the "shooting in time" as "form practice" rather than something to rush.
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Your brace and full draw look good. Like dwardo said, I think I would back it with some type of cloth for insurance.
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It looks pretty dang good. If I was a betting man I would say the right limb is bending slightly farther than the left, but the left is bending a little more near the handle. Having said that, it is hard to say without a solid background. On future bows I would recommend putting s piece of wood or something behind it to make it easier to see tiller. As far as this one, I would shoot that sucker and enjoy.
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I am surprised that your glued on handle is staying on
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Thank you to all of you fine fellers. Bow now has around 100 arrows down range and I am not holding my breath when I pull it back anymore. Just don't understand how this piece of wood made it this far and what's worse, I planned on starting a Molle this weekend and somehow built this instead. But I am happy and will post the bow later this week.
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Blackhawk you got a good eye. I knew about the prop twist but never thought anyone would see it online. And thanks for the fade fit advice. I am a rookie and appreciate all help.
Marc I can't explain about the handle. I glued up three of them 2 months ago and all of them did just fine. Wasn't concerned with mine til I read of others having trouble. TiteBond 2 with extended cure time and a bit of luck.
Once again, thanks.
Lane
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Very nice work! Jawge