Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Lee Slikkers on June 14, 2011, 03:28:41 pm

Title: Paddle bows - tillering
Post by: Lee Slikkers on June 14, 2011, 03:28:41 pm
I've seen a few post on here lately about Paddle bows so I thought I'd ask a question.  I have one I am currently working on, all taken down to profile (Sassafras w/ Rawhide backing) that been dried for plenty of time.  This morning I was starting to work on the thickness taper and have it down to what "looks" like a decent even taper from handle through the limbs and to the tips.  I attempted to do some floor tillering but because of the heavily reflexed tips and short length (42" ntn) I really couldn't get it to do much bending like I can with a "normal" longer bow.

Is there a different tillering method with these wide, short buggers or do I keep working down the thickness taper until I get it to start bending some or do I put it up on the tree with a long string so I can see if/where it is bending? 

I assume these are a bend through the handle to a degree and should be looking for that to start to happen before going to anything close to a short string, correct?

Many thanks folks!

Title: Re: Paddle bows - tillering
Post by: PEARL DRUMS on June 14, 2011, 03:34:29 pm
Lee my "Chub" hackberry bow is a type of paddle bow, not extreme though. The handle works on mine, is yours working or rigid?
Title: Re: Paddle bows - tillering
Post by: Lee Slikkers on June 14, 2011, 03:37:39 pm
right now it's rigid  ;D  It's Pit River (CA) replica layed out from the stats in the TBB1 p 176
Title: Re: Paddle bows - tillering
Post by: PEARL DRUMS on June 14, 2011, 03:39:21 pm
One more thing. IMHO, Skip that stinkin long string and remove wood evenly until the limbs flex nicley on the floor, then short brace it and finish tillering. You can look down the limb/your leg when you floor tiller and see glaring flat spots w/o every long stringing. Give it a try. Grab a bow you already have and flex the limb on the floor as if you were floor tillering and get your new bow feeling slightly stiffer before low bracing it.
Title: Re: Paddle bows - tillering
Post by: George Tsoukalas on June 14, 2011, 04:17:39 pm
I've used the long string on reflexed bows but I tend to go to the short string pretty quickly. After you string it and start tillering keep in mind that reflexed bows show a high early draw weight so don't let that trick you into thining your bow is too heavy. Jawge
Title: Re: Paddle bows - tillering
Post by: Lee Slikkers on June 14, 2011, 10:12:54 pm
Thanks for the assistance guys...won't need any further help on her.  Let's just say (as many, many, many folks pointed out) Sassafras doesn't make a very good bow wood, particularily on a 44" Pit river style.

Into the growing pile of "funny shaped kindling"....

 :-[


Title: Re: Paddle bows - tillering
Post by: toomanyknots on June 15, 2011, 12:39:01 am
"After you string it and start tillering keep in mind that reflexed bows show a high early draw weight so don't let that trick you into thining your bow is too heavy. Jawge"

I would second that. It's better with shorter sinewed bows to tiller with some rough, like 60 grit or so sandpaper instead of anything that removes material faster. Shorter wide thin limb bows you pretty much have to use sandpaper. Or at least it's easier to get it tillered without removing to much and coming in under weight.
Title: Re: Paddle bows - tillering
Post by: soy on June 15, 2011, 05:49:48 am
That sucks, kindling of any shape...better luck on the next one.