Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: SEMO_HUNTER on July 08, 2011, 10:31:10 pm
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I was thinking about putting a massey finish over a snake skin and it's already had a few coats of polyurethane semi gloss over it. Do you think the epoxy finish would go on ok over the poly without reacting to it in an adverse way?
I'm going to ask this anyway, but I'm sure the answer is yes. This epoxy finish is flexible when applied over snake skins correct?
I mean, it won't crack or pull up the skin away from the bow will it?
Also, could I use denatured alcohol to thin the epoxy with instead of acetone?
I have the 5 minute 2 ton variety of epoxy and denatured alcohol.
Thanks for any help!
8)
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Nope, Acetone and acetone only!
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Semo, protect yourself from getting epoxy of any kind on your skin. Most folks given enough exposure develop a sensitivity to it, and it can have adverse effects on your health. I know a few folks that worked with it for years boat building, and now can't even catch a sniff without blowing up and breaking out in rashes.
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I don't know but I won't ever put a superglue finish on a snake skin again. twice I've tried it and both time they crack in areas where the bow limbs are working hard. So I would stay away from anything that is too hard and epoxy might be in that category.
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I've never did this but GAUR RIGHT epoxy could do the same at stress points if put on to thick. But not sure. I'll tell you what I have used a lot when I was younger. SPRAY ON VARIFANE just buts on a thin plactic coat. When starting out the first 15 or 20 bows I used this for a finile finish. Never had it crack I only changed because wax is more tradional and super for water proffing. You have to do it yearly but looks like you end up with a new bow when done each time.
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I guess I should have given a little more info with this post?
I normally use Tru Oil and I'm completely satisfied with the results I get from it and don't intend to use anything else but Tru Oil. However, when I went to put the finish on my BBO with a 30" black snake through the handle section and half way out the limbs, my Tru Oil had dried up on me. I'm guessing because of the heat, but it was a large bottle and it starts to dry up the closer you get to the last bit at the bottom.
With no time to order more and have it in time to finish this bow and no retailers in my area who carry it, some have never heard of it. One young guy thought I was actually looking for a particular brand of oil and pointed me toward the lubrication/oils section.....I didn't even try to explain it. :o
So I used a spray on semi gloss polyurethane instead and I'm a little dissappointed in the filling properties of it. It's too thin and leaves a nice finish on wood, but not good enough to fill the scale pores on a snake skin.
That's the whole purpose of trying to come up with something else to put over the snake skin on the bow. I may just call it good as it is and send it off anyway.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
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I use a coating of Tite-bond glue over the skins Chris. Tru-oil over that and sometimes spray spar urethane over that. I don't know why folks use acetone to mix this Devcon two-ton epoxy with. I get a much better mix with lacquer myself.
Test a section under your grip area (if using a covering) for compatibility. Just my feeling, but I doubt if it is compatible.......Art
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Lacquer THINNER for cutting epoxy. Not sure why people focus on 5 minute Epoxy for Massey finish. You're better off with a slower setting type which will be more durable and just better all around.
Epoxy doesn't have to be brittle. Lots of variety out there for flexible types.
I have just used West G Flex. Hard to beat that.
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Thanks for the help guys, I may try this some other time. I just don't have the balls to do it on this bow because the finish really looks good the way it is, just not what I'm used to with my Tru Oil. I love that stuff and I use in on everything from gun stock refinishing (about 5 under my belt now) to bow finishing (can't remember how many?) to arrow finishing on any wood shaft I've tried it came out beautiful.
I don't know why someplace around here doesn't carry it? But I found a guy who sells the 8oz. bottles for $12.95 free shipping and I'll be placing an order with him real soon.
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Have you tried the sporting good stores Chris? General have to get my tru-oil at our local Pawn Shop. Go figure! Art
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I've been to all the stores around here that would have anything close and nobody has it. You finally reach a point where the gas you waste running around looking for something could have already paid the shipping to get it off the internet.
Businesses around here basically don't carry anything that might sell, only things that do sell. So if they haven't ever had a couple of requests for something they won't carry it.
I asked the lady at the Ace Hardware store to order me a quart of Deft Laquer yesterday and she said there is a 4 quart minimum. I thought they were supposed to order anything that you request as long as it's available to them? Isn't that what Ace Hardware advertises? Evidently not around my area?
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3 rivers archery is an online supplier who sells tru oil.
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I've found big bottles on ebay. The sports stores tend to carry the small ones. I agree with you that tru oil is hard to beat. I was pretty disappointed that I messed up my son's bow. Backed it with a flying snake I found dead in our neighborhood, looked great with tru oil on it and I decided to add some superglue to make a harder coating.
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The one I finished with Tru Oil came out awesome with nothing more than Elmers wood glue to put the skins on, which dries clear by the way. Then about 6-7 coats of Tru Oil over them, it filled the pores great and left a nice thick hard finish that was near perfect.
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looked great with tru oil on it and I decided to add some superglue to make a harder coating
Gaur, it is generally not a good idea to put a harder finish over a softer one. You risk having the finish crack on you.
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I know some guys who put super glue over their snake skins, but I don't think it's really necassery myslef. Several coats of Tru Oil will do the job nicely............IF you have some on hand that is. :o
Gotta get me some more before the next bow!!
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Hi Gordon,
Thanks for the reply. I don't always think things out in advance so well. Do you think superglue is a good finish if put right over the skins. I've tried that too as others have suggested it and ended up having problems too. Maybe not all superglues are equal. Many a massey finish if done thin enough doesn't crack in the stressed areas. This bow was a bamboo backed osage for my son and there was lots of bend in the middle section as its a short bow.
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Gaur,
The technique that I've settled on for snake skins is as follows:
1. Make sure there are no air bubbles as these will cause the finish to crack under stress
2. Make sure ALL scales are removed as even a few scales can compromise finish adhesion
3. Apply a light coat of superglue to the skins and let dry
4. Apply a light coat of shellac over the superglue and let dry
5. Apply 3 light coats of Tru-Oil, letting the finish dry between coats.
6. Lightly sand the finish with 220 grit sandpaper only in the direction of the scales
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6
8. Apply 2 final light coats of Tru-Oil
When I do it this way I do not experience problems with cracking.
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Thanks Gordon. Appreciate the help. I'll have to try it your way then.
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Here's a thought that may help you and from what I've read it is basically a homemade Truoil. I've not personally used Truoil but from all the reviews it sounds very close:
Mix 50/50 gloss polyurethaine with Mineral Spirits and apply with a rag, brush or finger. This thins down the poly and allows it to dry fast, like Truoil, for multiple coats a day. Gloss poly drys harder than the satin as satin has agents in it to prevent the gloss effect that softens the product so that is why it is recommende to use the gloss.
I found this information out in a 10 year old Woodworker's magazine and used it on the last bow I built. I was very impressed with the end results. Having both materials on hand made making this mix easy and cheap without having to find a Truoil supplier. A tip is to mix up only a small batch that you will use up for that project and keep it sealed or it will dry out quickly.
Once that combination was fully applied the bow then received a spraying of Spar Satin to dull the finish. I was very glad to find this information out. Hope it helps.