Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: PEARL DRUMS on September 09, 2011, 01:20:04 pm
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Anybody build a bow that was z spliced with a semi-rigid handle? URAC is stronger than wood, so why wouldnt it work if the splice fit was perfect?
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There's one way to know for sure Pearly >:D. Hey, just keep your handle dimemsions more so in depth than width. Works fine! Art
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I see two possible problems. If the glue is more rigid than the wood then it would not want to flex and break instead. Also the wood fibers end at the splice so too much flex could make those lift. I think a very good splice might be able to handle a little flex.
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Thanks Artsy, I trust you........................I think. Ryoon your first concern never crossed my mind, your second did and it didnt worry me. The splice joint can only be 3" long and being a semi rigid handle I dont think the very center section will be asked to move much anyhow. The bow I have in mind, or better yet the bow these billets will allow can only be 59"' ttt. I am going to add some short static recurves to it so I can keep the performmance and drop the draw weight some. Thanks for the comments guys.
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I think ryoon's second concern is the one that will bite you. Been there done that, it leaves little splinters attached to the glue while the glue is in tact. The flex shouldn't be a problem for the glue, I use it in my limbs all the time.
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I plan on wrapping the handle with waxed flax cord and TBIII. There will be no way (fingers crossed) for that splice to lift anywhere. Or, I could make some tapered overlays for the back of the splice joint. I dont think the belly side will do much of any moving. We shall know by Sunday! The limbs are tillered and shaped already, they are from another bow that wasnt spliced correctly and the joint gave way, so the bow went from 64" to 59".
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Longtime ago, I discuss with european bowyer about use of billet in warbow. It was of concern that the very center of bow will have maximum stress, so conventional splice of 3~4 inch will have higher chance to break than longer splice. He thought that if made quite long, 6~10 inch it would allow glue joint to bend than hinge as shorter splice might do. Also he suggest backing of some sort to prevent lift of the fiber. I have 2 billet sets I would like to try with, just need some backing for them.
Im sure it work when done right. Composite bow is having several splices in the core and in most designs these splices are require to bend, though they do have sinew backing, Im sure it will work.
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Pearl D
Let's see some pics after 50 arrows or so. I've got 4-5 old failed attempts that I would like to get creative with. Thought bout splicing in the past, but got tired of gettin slapped in the face by hard wood ;D
Maybe some progress pics.
Thanks
Ron
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I would say it might work for a while but if the spliced section of the handle is bending at all it will eventually over time fail the toppic has been discussed before maybe do a search and you will get more of others input.
Josh
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I probably screw up more stuff than most folks Pearly...........you can trust me on that! ;D
Spliced bows is about all I make. Even staves I cut in half and splice back together to make a better bow. About all my bows I can feel movement in the handle. More so with Osage. Wood's so elastic it's hard not to get some bend, unless you like big ol' fat handles. Don't pin the splice and I've never seen a need for a handle overlay. Nothing wrong with a little handle wrap insurance though.......Art
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Worked like a charm all. The bow is 57" ntn with a RIGID handle, 48# @ 28" and static curves. It was shot at least 100-150 times this weekend. Nothing moved and nothing popped. I added an 8" long by 1/16" thick osage lam to the back and belly of the splice to build up my handle some and to beef up the splice some. What a sweet little bugger it is. Dead silent and fairly quick for a lighter bow. I chickened out on a bendy handle style. I ass-u-med it was too short for a rigid handle.....................wrong again! The more I build the more I realize the only way to learn is to just do it and throw rules out the window. You win some and you lose some!
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Thanks for the info.
Take the time to thank a vet.....they deserve it......( l live my life by that )
God bless
Ron