Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: juan lopez on October 13, 2011, 06:41:22 pm
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Hi guys, I had no time to enter this great forum, walking down the street in a neighbor's house were cutting a mandarin tree, and thought I won the lottery, because I hear it's good wood for bows, is this true?
Thanks for your help
regards
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Sorry, I forgot to ask if it would be good wood longbow, or flatbow?
will hopefully longbow which is what I like best, very primitive
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I merged your topics together so you can conveniently recieve all your replies in one thread.
In response to your question I think all fruit-bearing trees are supposed to make good bows. It should make either a long bow or a flat bow. Good luck and post pics when you get done! :)
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I'm not familiar with a mandarin tree. Do you know the botanical name? Where do you live?
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Thanks josh and pat, the scientific name Citrus reticulata think it is, I am Spanish, but I live in Venezuela
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Juan;
It should make a good bow but you need to split and seal the ends good. If you don't it will start to split,(check). Citrus wood is heavy when green because there is a lot of moisture so it needs to dry slow so it doesn't check or twist.
I've made bows from wild oranges and it shouldn't be any different. When it dries the bark will just start to peel off. don't worry about chasing a growth ring, just shape it into a bow but don't touch the side the bark was own,(the back).
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OH! a mandarin orange. I love to eat them. ;D
Mullet lives in citrus country so I'd listen to him. ;)
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Thanks muller, I think I made a mistake, because you remove all the bark, and I put white glue, I will serve?.
If pat is the land of citrus, jijiji
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Hi Juan (are you from Spain?..I'm)
I've worked with bitter orange trees, and is the best local wood that I've found here.
I made sapling bows with. Very good bows both of them.
I think it will be the same for all the oranges, mandarines or lemon trees.
How long and thick is your stave?
If you reduce it to near bow dimensions, shouldn't have a problem with drying without bark.
Good luck with the proyect. And keep us updated.
David
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Juan, It isn't a problem removing the bark first. It is just easier when it is dry. And you did good by sealing the back after you did remove it.
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Thanks guys, but I'm noticing that the wood is cracking, I understand what I say, I start working the bow at the end to have approximately
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Dantolin, and Muller, the trunk is freshly cut and 8cm diameter is more or less, Greetings friends, whose experience can help me keep this valuable tree
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Hello and welcom Juan. I'm a Texan, but I was born in Hidalgo de Parral, Chihuahua, Mexico. It's a small mining town where Dave Rudabaugh was killed and years later Pancho Villa..
Post pics when you get your bow going.
Buena suerte,
Cipriano
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Cipriano, thanks for the welcome, and I'm sure I will put photos, if you save the stick.
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Hi guys, I ask again, sorry. I did what David told me, work the stick about the size, my question is necessary to seal the ends?
thanks for your help
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Yes, seal the ends and put it in a place where it will not dry fast.
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muller thanks so what I do, then I will put pictures, this forum with great teachers wonderful