Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: makete on July 17, 2007, 03:42:11 pm
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Would like to know what you all have used for tip overlays. What were the pro's and con's of that material? Was it easy ;) to use and shape? Why are tip overlays important or necessary? And any other information you may have about the subject.
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I've used various hardwoods and antler, just for decoration.
On yew their necessary I believe because the wood is soft also ERC may benifit as it also is softer.
The sky is the limit you could use bone, mother of pearl, exotic hardwoods etc.
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What Dana said! In most cases, tip overlays are strictly decorative...except for the softer woods like yew and ERC. I have used antler, hardwoods, bone and leather saturated with super glue for overlays. As long as the mating surfaces of the bow tip and overlays are well matched, you should have no problem putting overlays on. I usually preshape the overlay first before glueing. Makes it easier than trying to shape after they are glued down. I have used gel type super glue, regular super glue, TB glues and epoxy to attach tip overlays. Pat
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Pretty much the same- hardwood, antler, bone, horn, hoof. I'm gonna try black walnut shells one of these days, but then, I'm wierd ;D
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have done a little build-along a while ago:
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1729.0.html
i used hardwoods, horn and antler
frank
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I just used bone for tip overlays and arrow plates on a new bow, and it was a lot of fun, if unpleasant smelling at times.
Dane
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I would add that tip overlays make it easier to do really narrow tips by providing an area over the "bacK' of the tip to grab the string. Horn is good because its so light yet tough. I like some brown exotic looking osage I have, use it on almost all my jobs now.
Dave
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I would add that tip overlays make it easier to do really narrow tips by providing an area over the "bacK' of the tip to grab the string. ....
Dave
oh yes indeed - and i've done narrower then that...
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Does the overlay material "have" to bend or can it be made from stiffer non-bending material? Hoof and mother of pearl must look extremely nice. Well actually they all look nice. ;)
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makete the tips shouldn't bend on a bow therefore the overlays don't have to
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If the tips dont bend, could someone use stone? Something like soap stone? The reason I am asking is that we go to Minnesota every year to quarry pipestone to make native american ceremonial pipes (peace pipes). And think that it would look nice if the stone was used as a tip overlay. Pipestone is alittle harder than soapstone but still soft enough to work with a knife and file. Tell me what you all think.
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You could use soapstone,etc for tip overlays but the extra weight would cause hand shock and slow down your bow. Save the soap stone and pipe stone for trade items and trade them for antler or other appropriate materials. Pat
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Hhhhmmmmmmmmmmmm!! Well shot down that idea.
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Don't give up so quick.
I had a similar idea but to shave weight I put walnut overlays on the tips then drilled 1/4" holes 1/8" deep and epoxied tiny pieces of Turquoise in to the holes. The walnut really set the turquoise off. this bow also had a turquoise in walnut arrow plate. This bow was a parting gift to a friend who I haven't heard from in ten years so no pictures.
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I would think that stone overlays would work, if you keep them as thin laminations and narrow the tips down to 1/4" wide or so. I woudl think that it would not add so much weight that it gives the bow hand shock. Make sure that your outer limbs are thin to eliminate the mass that causes hand shock and use a strong epoxy to glue it to the wood.
Dave, I think that horn isn't so light. It is a lot heavier than wood, and readily sinks.
And to the original question, I use water buffalo horn, it is relatively easy to shape with hand or powertools. I glue on with hide glue or super glue. I add them for the aforementioned reason (string nock around the back) and for looks.
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;DThanks for the replys. Maybe there is hope. ;D
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My favorite is pig's tonails, sold in pet stores as chew toys. Colors run from solid black to solid tan with different mixes and stripes in between. Doesn't look like much at first but once cut to shape glued on and polished they look great. Carefull cutting it with power tools, it stinks somethin awfull when it gets hot. Same goes for tryin to shape it with a bench grinder, foul stench and mucks up the stone.
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Sea shells and oyster shells make good overlays but you need to learn to cut and work with those material before you do it to a bow.
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I really look at overall woodworking skills in dressing up the bow. Although tiller is so important, once that is nailed, then I really admire the other aspects about what is making the bow distinctive. Art work, tips, interesting handles make bows, not to mention seamless laminanation make the bow noticible.
I am an avid reader of WOOD Magazine and make a few projects from it. Some of the tip work and really good glueups of your bows could easily be featured in the fine furniture section of this magazine.
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One thing you could do with the soapstone is arrow rest and strike plate
Dave
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Thanks Dave never thought of that. How would you make an arra rest from soap stone? A stricker plate, would it be inlayed?