Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: CherokeeKC on December 14, 2011, 11:30:41 pm
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Here are some wild rose shafts i collected a couple weeks ago. I noticed some of the shoots I cut are "wavy" along its length and some are pretty much straight. I guess this is the difference between new and old growth?
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/Misc/2011-11-25153024.jpg)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/charnockk/Misc/2011-11-25153042.jpg)
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Use seasoned year shoots or older. The first year shoots won't stay straight and you have to keep re straighting. Some arrows between shots it there not pull perfectly straight out.
First year shoots in general are smaller and are greener in general.
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I like MFR, kinda light, but tough. I've posted a couple of post in the past w/ MFR arrows. Saving the planet one arrow shaft of an invasive spiecies at a time. ;D ;)
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Your right they are lite. Exspecially when your use to shooting dog wood.
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Remove the thorns. I use a knife. Bundle them with duct tape up in groups of 6 ish after preliminary straightening. Keep at it every few days and you won't need heat. Jawge
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They also take longer to season than other woods.
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with wild rose what diameter do i need to collect to make a suitable arrow i have this stuff growing everywhere around me. is it still 3/8" or do i need to pick larger shoots
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with wild rose what diameter do i need to collect to make a suitable arrow i have this stuff growing everywhere around me. is it still 3/8" or do i need to pick larger shoots
3/8" will work for MFR too.
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The ideal is to collect shafts that are 3/8" at the nock end to leave room to fashion the nock. Jawge