Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: 65x55 swedis on December 23, 2011, 02:52:59 am
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here is a flat bow that i am building with only hand tools only ;D. it is my self bow that has knots in it. any tips or advice it would be very helpful. thanks all o and more pics to come
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That's looking like a nice stave.
I'd leave the knots sticking out fairly proud (at least 1/8", you can always trim them more later on) and keep an eye out for any rotten knots, I've had ones the size of a pencil which were black but looked solid...they weren't. If they are blak dig 'em out and fill 'em with a peg. In the pic, yours look nice and clean.
The sapwood looks fairly thin which is nice.
The only problem may be getting the draw weight down without loosing all the heartwood off the belly, there are several ways round it. Go narrower, de-crown the bow or reduce the sapwood thickness. A combination of all 3 may be appropriate.
Looks like it should make a nice bow.
Del
BTW. I've seem 'em done with the sapwood showing as a thin line down either side of the belly (like it is now) and also with the edges of the bow trimmed so the belly just shows heart wood. Both looks good, I've only done the second option myself.
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I'm lazy so I would use the flat side for the back and start cutting through that other junk !
But thats just me !
Guy
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That's a nice stave!!
Should make a looker and a shooter.
I wish I had something constructive to give but haven't been at this long enough, but from all I've read and seen that sapwood is as valueable in tension as the heart is in compression.... Del's advice seems very sound to me considering the domenations of your stave..
Good luck, can't wait to see your progress :)
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i dont think those pin knots will do any thing...BUT,if you see cracking in the knots then put some super glue on them..that stave looks really good..the sap wood ratio looks sweet...SO,is it a branch or sapling tree...and is there any way of finding out how many growth rings an inch..john
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would it be better to have the knots on top limb or the bottem limb the knots are not roten at all
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Look forward to seeing your progress on this one, I would say the top limb would be best for the knots as the bottom limb is usually working harder depending on how you place your grip. Others may have a different opinion but this is just me :D
Josh
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I'd also leave the knots.
I build all bows with just hand tools. Never used a saw or sander on a bow in my life. Thats not very primitive.
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Knottiest limb to the top I'd say as it doesn't work so hard (as has already been suggested). For the same reason I usually put any naturally deflexed limb to the bottom.
In you pic, the two outer knots are no prob as they are on the centreline. The middle knot of the three is the tricky one, prob not enough wood to wriggle the loimb around it and loose the knot, so just keep it there with a little wood round the side of it and tiller to suit, maybe you'll find if the draw weight is high, you can narrow the bow and loose that knot, but the you can only hope the stave will tell you what to do as you start to work it down.
Signing off for the hol' have a good un guys.
Del
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It is hard to get the feel for the wood from only a photo, just use your good judgement and let the wood tell you where the bow lies in the wood. If you are considering a backward bow be suree to exzamine the prospective back for defects such as pin knots lying close to the back. Maybe a backing is in order. Good luck and merry Christmas. Kenneth
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well i am makeing the bow for my nefew he like hunting and archery so i decided to make him a bow i think 25# will be more than enough o he is 8 or cant remember
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did some more work on it yesterday got the shape started and handle started and started to foor tiller lightly to get a feel of which side needs more material taken off.looks like i will have to steam it a little to line the nocks up but should be ok even if i dont
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hey the limbs on the bow are a 1.5 in wide should i bring it down to a 1 inch or keep it wide cause of the knots
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I personally would leave them 1 1/2 wide
Josh
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i am also haveing trouble getting the sting to line up. it is off to one side of the bow should i steam one of the limbs to bring it back into line?
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I'd steam it... should respond pretty well. It looks to be right in the middle of the stave. I am by no means and expert but if I had to choose a place to bend that's a good place :)
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heres pics of the string travel not the actual string.
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If the string is favoring the side your arrow rests I wold leave it personally, then your arrow spine wouldnt be as critical as it wouldnt have to flex around the grip as much, you may get more arm slap though. If its to the opasite side then I would heat it at the grip and then put a block on both sides of the grip and clamp the grip to bring the string into alighnment. Other may do it differently so I would get more feedback and then decide what you want to do.
Josh
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Really interesting, looking forward to seeing your progress.
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I agree with Josh. If the string stays inside the handle I'd leave it alone. But, if you need to bend it it'll be much easier to bend the handle than those wide limbs. Cool little bow!
George
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I always wait to narrow my handle and tips at least until after the stave is short braced. That way you can move your string tracking some by moving the string to one side and narrowing the handle to the direction of the string. Yours is borderline close of needing bent. I wouldn't bend it yet until you have it braced and know for sure where the string lays.
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If you leave the string offset it will be more prone to wrist slap. What you have is very easy to correct. Most people will try to heat and bend the limb and that is the hardest place because it is so wide. I usually do the correcting at the handle. Though its thicker and takes a little longer to heat it is narrower and will correct much easier. Also it only takes a very slight tweak at the handle to move the tip allot. heat the belly side of the handle and the sides of the handle as well, Very slow penetrating heat. place some rubber cushions at the fades and clamp in the center of the handle . you will be able to watch the tips move into alignment as you apply pressure. Take it just a hair past the center to allow spring back.
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ok so i finally got around to try and straighten the bow but when i did the slow heat it strated to crack in the handle!! i stopped and looked at them from what i found was that they were all grain lifts so i shaved the handle down and found that they did not continue into the bow deeper. so should i try dry heat again or would you guys recommend steaming it?
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well bad news. i started to really get to floor tillering to day and got one side done but when i started on the other i had just shaved it down when kerpow the limb broke. :( :( from what i can tell it had devoloped a little hinge where it broke and it twisted idk for sure here are the pics.
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Well that sucks,but its a part of the game we play..breaks happen..don't get to upset,there's always more wood....grab another stave n try again. ;)
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Bummer, that's tough. I broke a yew bow a few months ago too. Time to start a new bow. :D
George
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:( :( Double bummer! I hate it when that happens! I got a couple of yew staves I'm working on myself that I am concerned about because of some big knots right about where your's broke. A little bit of post mortem critique though: I looks like the widest part of your limb is at the beginning of your handle fade when it should be at the end of the fade. The widest part of the limb should be at the start of the thin section of the limb. On yours it appears to be part of the handle. I hope what I said makes sense :laugh:
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That sucks, as others said its part of the game as im sure you know. I would save that good limb and splice it to another or make a takedown with another limb :D
Josh
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Ouch :'(