Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: JW_Halverson on January 03, 2012, 01:41:28 am
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I like the idea of Molle bows, but I have yet to get the guts up to try such short and wide working limbs. How about if I make something about 64" long with the last 12" being narrowed and stiff, and the working limbs about 1 1/4 wide. Slightly narrowed stiff handle and 1 1/2 inch fadeouts. 28" draw length and shooting for about 60# draw. I have a piece of really clean hickory board in mind for this bow. I will probably back the working limbs with rawhide.
Am I completely wasting the advantage of stiff/narrow tips by making the bow longer?
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that otta work, i built a molly 64" ntn, and it shoots nice and drives them deep, Bub
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I never built a long MOLLE but know people and have seen there bows. The looked and shot well as far as I know.
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Remember this one i posted back in early dec? Maybe it'll give ya some influence and help. Go to page two where I give a lentghy explanation on layout. Its similiar to what your asking about.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,29343.0.html
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be careful to make the inner limbs too short, or make them very wide. I have had problems with the molle design chrysaling badly in the past, and no longer like the design although they shoot incredibly well...
Good luck!
Jon
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I double checked the piece of hickory I had in mind. It's actually going to afford almost 1 3/4" width at the fadeouts. Not the full 2" that Blackhawk mentions in the link above to the hackberry masterpiece he showed.
I went back and re-read his posting of that bow. I really liked it at the time, but had not read much about the details. (Too busy looking at bow porn to read about her turn-offs, astrological sign, and such) Good comment about making sure there is NO limb twist, Blackhawk, I would have missed that and learned a hard lesson.
I did notice that there are pin sized borer holes in a few spots on this piece of wood. They go diagonally thru the grain in places and follow the growth rings in other places. Since I am backing with rawhide, I'm not terribly concerned and will just pump 'em fulla cyanoacrylic glue. I'll be extra careful to make sure I do not have a bug hole, if at all possible, in the outer levers.
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I double checked the piece of hickory I had in mind. It's actually going to afford almost 1 3/4" width at the fadeouts. Not the full 2" that Blackhawk mentions in the link above to the hackberry masterpiece he showed.
Oh, you mean his PEARL DRUMS masterpiece J-dub-yah? Yah, that is a beaut for sure. Hackberry is KILLER bow wood, my favorite whitewood by far. You should get a stave.
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It was named in error, I am sure, PD! Now go beat your high-hat!
I've worked with hackberry in the past and have come to love that wood. I will never turn down a hackberry stave! I hvae one piece left from a tree that produced 4 high quality bows despite my best efforts to screw 'em up.
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,24833.msg333861.html#msg333861
See if this works
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j w, get ahold of Rich," halfeye", i think he's the resident xpert on molly's, Bub
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1 3/4" should be wide enough for hickory and your length cus hickory is denser than hackberry. That's if your using a similar design. Hope those holes aren't to nasty. Thanks for the compliment on the hackberry...and sorry for making Chris' head even bigger...its the last time I name a bow after him...I promise ;) :laugh:
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Chris's head gets any bigger and he won't fit in here to post. Maybe that's not a bad thing. >:D