Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: paulsemp on January 24, 2012, 07:02:43 pm
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a couple of new sinew backed bows, just waiting for cure time. the one with skins is a 62" hickory /sinew with deer antler tips. my first hickory sinew. don't think it was needed but wanted to try. second is 54" osage/sinew flat bow with flipped tips. will post more pics as time goes on. need a trade bow to work on to take my mind off them.
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Looking forward to your progress, Paul. 8)
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how long do you plan on letting them cure?
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the hickory i did 2 months ago and just sanded it down and put the skins on. the osage i just did . i like to leave them about 3 months before tillering
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Looks like you used titebond III?...correct?...I like to wait to put skins on and make sure its gonna be a bow first. Also because as im honing in my tiller ill take stock off the sides to control my mass...and I used TB3 once n never again...hide glue n sinew for me....but to each his own and that's just the way I do things.
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blackhawk,
no titebond on these, all hide glue. i agree putting skins on should be one of the last things to do. the hickory i had a string on it before i backed it (i should of said that) the final tillering is what i meant. but i like to leave it for 3 months before i really work it and start pulling on it
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Looking good,can't wait to see them all finished up. :)
Pappy
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Thanks..I stand corrected :-X...doesn't happen much but ill admit it.. :)...hope they work out for ya then...glad ya used hide ;)
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i have made titebond mistakes too!!! IMO titebond is only good for wood to wood and leather to wood
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Those are looking nice Paul thanks for sharing. Just curious and not trying to highjack your thread but why do you think Tightbond 3 is only good for wood to wood or leather? I was just curious because its what I planned to use on a sinew backed Yew im getting going and with all the rain here I figured the water proof glue would work better :-\ Any info on your thoughts or experiances would be great! thanks
Josh
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Elktracker
i just have not had luck gluing snake down with titebond,on a sinewed backed bow. i degreased them with soap and had them lift on 2 bows in many areas. so for backing i just started using hide glue. i live in chicago and do not deal with all that rain so it has never been a problem. and don't worry about a thread highjack, if people have had luck with titebond and skins on sinew backed, i want to learn what i was doing wrong
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Ok I misunderstood I was asking about using tb3 for gluing on sinew.
Josh
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you have had luck with titebond on sinew? i have never thought of doing that.
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I have only sinew backed one bow and it was a short paddle style Yew bow and I used tb2 it seemed to work fine but its not seeing allot of use as its a wall hanger for my grandma. Nice bows you have there, look forward to seeing them finished up!
Josh
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Josh, I don't think you'll have any problems with hide glue releasing in the NW as long as the snakeskin was sound and a good finish was applied. What you will find is that a hide glued sinew bow becomes more sluggish with higher humidity. I don't know if using TB3 instead of hide glue will change that. I have only used TB3 to glue non-sinew backings (wood, leather, cloth, etc) on bows and it works well then.
Good looking bows Paul. :)
George
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How wide are those overlaid tips on the snakeskin bow? They look to be about 1" - very heavy with the added mass of the antler. Are you planning on narrowing them in the final tiller process? With those antler overlays, they could go as narrow as 3/8" or less.
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yes randman I still need to shape them. I glued them on when i skinned the bow. just waiting till the bow makes it back into the shop