Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Matt A on February 08, 2012, 01:08:38 am
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OK. i am kinda new to making selfbows i have made 2 out of ash, but i have Osage, eastern hophorn beam, and American elm stave's that are now dry.
How do you go about getting the shape without violating grain(concentrating on narrowing towards the tips). and is there a certain way you have to tiller these snaky things differently than straight woods? cause my mind wants to think the limbs can twist if you tiller them like you would a straight limbed bow
all help would be appreciated thank you :-)
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I'm working on a semi snakey bow and there are times that I wish that all trees grew perfectly straight for my convenience, the character aspect is worth it though and if you want a filleting challenge get one that snakes up and down and side to side >:D >:D. Almost any wood can end up with a snakey grain if you are unlucky enough(felt boo of course)
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The only difference between a snakey bow and a straight bow is the snakes. You draw out and shape the bow the same way.
As you tiller the bow you control the twist by removing wood from stiff areas and leave the weak parts alone. You have to go slower, concentrate on what you are doing and don't get too far ahead of yourself as you go.
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@Pat B
i have seen pictures of some layed out snake bows on here. so follow the lines untill you have to narrow down for the tips???
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I have dreams of laser strait staves. As far as i understand there isnt really any big difference really. your still trying to get a nice arc with it when drawing it and all that.
A snakey staff is hell to layout and its something i havent figured out how to do either. I just play with the strait stuff and let the real bowyers make the curved wonders.
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This is what I use to get a center line on a snakey or irregular stave. I took a tillering Gizmo and added the dowels.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/gizmomulti-use4.jpg)
I use it canted one way and draw a line down the stave with the dowels keeping the pencil centered...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/gizmomulti-use5.jpg)
...then I cant it the other way and draw a line...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/gizmomulti-use2.jpg)
Both lines will be together down most of the stave but if they seperate I just split the difference.
After I get a center line I put a mark every 4" down the stave starting from the center and out both directions. At each of these marks I measure over both sides of the center line to get the limb width.
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TY so much Pat that explains so a lot. I just couldnt figure how to get a center line on a curved staff. once thats done its mainly just measuring and marking. thanks again for solving something ive been scratching my head about for a while.
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wow! thank you pat got to make me one of those! I have seen pictures of them tools for tillering, you make that one I presume?
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Eric Krewson came up with the tillering Gizmo. I just added the dowels to the back of it to make a centering tool. The Gizmo is an excellent tillering aid. Check the How To section. I think Eric's build along is there.
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I usually just eyeball the center line,if you have the stave cleaned up and get the light right you can see the longitudinal grain,just start in the center[crown] of the stave and follow it to the other end. then lay out handle and fads,you don't have to worry about the snake in that area ,then lay out limbs and do all the measuring off that center line. :) As far as the tapper I divide the limb into 2 or 3 inch sections depending on how snaky it is,then figure the total amount I want to drop from fads to tip and drop that much at each section .You can cheat on that some also if you need to but both limbs need to be laid out the same even if one is less snaky than the other. Hope this helps. :)
Pappy
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This is a stave before lay out,then after and then cut out,Got to matching out of this stave. Maybe this will give you the idea of how to do it. Just jump in,it's not near as bad as you might think. :)
Pappy
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Yes, there is a big difference between working a straight piece like a board and working a snaky stave. First, you look at the lateral grain of the stave and mark a line down the center following it. I eyeball it. That's the big difference. Don't think only osage snakes. Whitewoods do too. Second, when dealing with a roller coaster stave (you know - waves like at the coast...) each little hump and valley has to do its share of the work. That's very important as you can be fooled. Third, check tiller from both sides. It WILL appear differently so try to imagine an in between tiller for both sides. Fourth, often with the wavy staves with the dippity do's you have to draw an imaginary curve in your minds eye. Yes, it's tough to explain and do. It seems to be a lost art these days of heat guns and bow forms. Most shooters have gone from compounds to FG bows and to selfies so all of this heating is understandable if one looks at their perspective. See I'm open mined! All of this info is on my site.:) Jawge
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Check my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
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thanks! big help!