Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: okie64 on February 09, 2012, 08:54:12 pm
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I plan on backing this piece of osage with sinew and my question is do I need to finish chasing the ring where it dips in around this knot or just go over it as is with sinew. Also what would be the best length to make sinew backed osage for my draw(28")? This stave is 64" long and 3" across the back so I got plenty to work with and I plan on having 8" of stiff handle.I've never sinew backed before so any and all suggestions will be appreciated.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee503/Jamey_Burkhart/65189bf0.jpg)
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If I'm sure I'm sinewing I wouldn't have chased the ring anywhere. Normally with osage I would decrown and try to follow the same ring down the center of the bow back, not worrying about anything else. I personally would not leave the knot proud like that, but I wouldn't necessarily chase the ring either, I'd just cut it down to the level of the bow back. Well, now that I think about it I'm so OCD that if I had the rest of the ring chased I'd chase all of it. But I'm stupid that way. ::) I'm a little bit curious what that knot looks like on the belly. 90% of the time you can ignore knots in Osage, but now and then....
Having said all that, as nice as your back looks I'm not sure I'd sinew it at all. Nice work.
George
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I would try to split that stave in half eliminating that knot. A 1 1/4" x 62" sinew backed osage bow would be just right. Flip the tips a bit and its even better.
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i am no pro,but i would go with a four an a half handle,cut the with down some.i would leave the length alone.osage can take alot of stress if you are going to back it.
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George, I chased rings on four different staves today and this one I thought would be the best candidate for sinew, It had pretty thin rings so I figured I would have some violations but it turned out really good.
Pat , I should have mentioned this stave has a small check on the other end about an inch from the left side so the knot pretty much has to be in the bow if I follow the centerline.
Do you guys think 58" long and 1 3/4" wide to about midlimb would be asking too much for this stave?
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Wow, 4 today?? Want to come visit my shop? :)
Bendy handle and 58" is no problem. 58" with a stiff handle will take really careful tillering to avoid set. Sinew helps in both cases. My shortest unbacked stiff handled osage bow is 60" though I know there are shorter ones out there.
George
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Having that knot in the the bow shortens the bending portion of the bow. If it were centered in the handle that would free up more working area but I wouldn't trust the handle with that much knot in it.
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Weather sinewing or not I usually try and chase the ring as close as I can,Just gives me a safe feeling knowing it would hold without sinew, I never sinew a questionable stave just to try and save it,I only sinew the best. :)
Pappy
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I went ahead and dug out around that knot and drew my centerline down the stave and i think im going to be able to avoid it altogether. I'll post a pic of it later and yall can tell me what u think. Thanks for all the input.
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I was pretty much able to completely avoid the knot after I dug in around it so it worked out pretty good. I may build this one as is with no backing and save the sinew for another one.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee503/Jamey_Burkhart/5ff4f9df.jpg)
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Don't forget the other side of that stave! ;)
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Yeah it turns out you were right Pat. I think there is enough to get a bow from the other side. :)
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I like to center knots in my layout if I'm band sawing so I'm sure not to cut the fibers that sweep around them. When I'm laying out by eye I almost always underestimate how sharply the grain sweeps around a knot. Then I can draw knife the side. I find the draw knife to be the best tool to follow the grain. Even taking that knot out you may find the hard wood from the around the knot extends through your limb and causes a stiff spot. Doesn't matter, just adds character.
George
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Finally got this one done and heres a couple pics. I didnt use the sinew on it, decided I would save it for a better stave. It ended up 45# at 28" and 60" ntn.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee503/Jamey_Burkhart/004-24.jpg)
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee503/Jamey_Burkhart/003-32.jpg)
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Looks very nice, but where is that money shot, full draw picture?? ;D You know how much we like to see that. Did it take any set? Were you able to get a stave from the other half of the original stave? Good work.
George
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I didnt have anyone available to take the money shot at the time but I'll get one posted asap. The stave didnt cooperate when I split it so I wasnt able to get a full stave from the other side of it, I ended up with a leftover piece about 36" long and threw it in the billet pile. It started with about 2 inches of reflex and still holds about an inch of that after resting. This thing gave me fits during tillering, it just didnt want to bend where I wanted it too. The two whoop-di-dos in the bottom limb didnt make it any easier either. It turned out to be a good shooter though.