Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: snedeker on August 08, 2007, 04:33:19 pm
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Its been discussed numerous times here over the last five years, does hickory backing work if sawn willy nill across rings. Usually, of course, the answer is use vertical grain strips is best. back in 2002, some of the guys selling strips routinely sold flat sawn ones. I know that Pat B used to be a fan of such, but I seem to remember him running afoul of a splinter eventually and changing his mind. I have made a couple bows with flat sawn backing that worked out, although I had sone splinter and go too. Well, I ihad a couple half length strips left from some hickory I cut myself 4 years ago and decinded to go for it with a trilam I had in mind. Hickory backing, ipe center and a mystery wood belly (to be identified later). Darnit. Splinter came up shen I had nice profile going, full brace, and was pulling about 20".
I uess that's my last try with flat sawn backing. I sort of thought that the interlocking grain of hickory would hold it. Mayne ipe is a little much for that.
I am repairing, took it down to 1/16 and am going to put a strip of vert hickory on it I should have used in the first place.
Dave
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Dave, I have not had much luck with flat sawn backings or flat sawn hickory boards, Surprisingly I have had better luck with flat sawn elm. I still avoid any flat sawn lumber unless the temptation is just too great. Steve
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Elm has quite a bit of interlocking grain, so I would imagine that it may work quite well. It's though to split at least :) I've just finished a new flat short hickory flightbow, from a flat sawn board. Some runouts on the back, but it bends quite heavily without any signs of splinters. I even gave it 4" of dry heat-induced reflex, and continued to tiller it and shoot it the day after. It lost most of the reflex, but I'm really impressed.
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Dave,by" verticle grain",do you mean the the grain is perpendicular to the back of the bow?