Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Tortoise on February 16, 2012, 09:30:08 pm
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Hi all! I just got done cutting my riser and now time to move on to the limbs. This is my first longbow, it's osage orange with a hickory back. Now here's what I want to know: What shape should my limbs be in? This is what I came up with so far:
(http://i.imgur.com/NtQ84.jpg)
So basically the tip would be 1/2", and I went from both sides of the 1/2" tip in a straight line to where the riser (unshaped). The limbs are 31", and I'm looking for #45-50, not sure on the draw length yet. Please give me some help so I can continue my addiction :)
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Peter, cut it out and begin tillering. Osage likes a slightly crowned belly. One thing that concerns me is the abrupt angle of your fades. That taper should be at least 1 1/2" to 2" long.
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One thing that concerns me is the abrupt angle of your fades. That taper should be at least 1 1/2" to 2" long.
By abrupt you mean the sharper angle of the limb by the fades, or how the riser juts down (The riser isn't worked or rounded yet incase that's it) Thanks
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Is that riser glued on or cut out? I noticed that your limb taper starts right where your fades end, and if your riser is glued on then there is a chance that it will pop off due to the stress concentration created by that design. If your riser is glued on it could be a problem, if its all one piece then you shouldn't worry about it.
I've learned that you need to either start your taper a couple inches up the limb, or extend your fade a ways into the taper or else you risk popping the riser.
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Glued on. It should work since still drafting with my limbs after all. I'll keep your idea in mind too.
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what everyone means is the distance from the end of the handle to the start of the working limb the fade, the drawing is the back of the bow, look's like you allready cut the limb thickness, if it is a even taper then the limb layout that you have is probablly the way to go, and a pyramid makes a fine shooting bow, Bub(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/blade-7.jpg)
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How thick is your stave?
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Bub, that drawing is exactly what I've got, measurements and all. And pat, it's actually a board, which is 3/4" thick including the backing
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I still need help ^
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limb taper like you got, how wide are you at the fades?
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2" across
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The pyramid shape you have drawn out will require a circular tiller, which is easier than an elliptical tiller for a beginner. I suggest cutting it out as you have drawn. If your backing the bow then you only need it 1 1/2" wide to accomodate a 28" draw up to 60# or so.
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So the extra width won't be a problem correct? I'll start making shavings.
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The extra width will be a problem unless your making a 70-80# bow. If the bow is too wide it will get too thin if you want a 45-60# bow. Cit it out as is and come back with your rasp and narrow the fades and riser some.
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So I should get 1/8" out of both sides? Not including the riser either? I can manage that
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PD has got ya covered, but you'll have to rasp off more than an eighth on each side, it's gonna need to be closer to an inch and a half like he said, Bub
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I meant a fourth
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i make my pyramid's even taper, the same thickness till just befor the fades and use a french curve to layout the sweep from fade to grip, i start just under a half inch thick to start and tiller from there, Bub