Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: steelslinger on February 26, 2012, 02:14:30 pm
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I have recently finished my first bow and have begun the process of tuning arrows. I have a shelf for the arrow to rest on that is about 1/2" from center. I made two different bare arrows up to see how it would work. One is a 125gn the other is 180gn. The 125gn hits with the knock left about 6" at 15 yards. the 180gn turns totally around in 15 yards. My question is do I need to make lighter points, or shorten arrows? I guess I just don't know what to do. any help wold be great.
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What type of points are you using? What weight is your bow? What spine are your arrows? What length?
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the 180gr. sounds like not big enough feathers if it's doing that
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You'll need to answer Bills questions before we can make a judgement call.
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the 180gr. sounds like not big enough feathers if it's doing that
If you have to use more feather to get an arrow to fly straight you are wasting much of the bow's effort. That wagging back and forth as the fletching catches air is called "drag". Hence the bare shaft testing. When a bare shaft flys almost perfectly straight then you can get away with low fletching to impart a degree of helical spin without losing so much speed. Some guys claim that only matters when you are making long shots, but think of it this way: with a badly matched spine your arrow is flopping wildly just off the string as the fletching desperately tries to catch air and stablilize. What happens when the arrow is halfway sideways when it strikes your deer? Reduced penetration, deflection off ribs instead of shearing the rib, drastically increased chance of the arrow shaft smacking into a branch or other obstruction while in flight, and half a dozen other negatives.
Match the arrow to the bow, it's not that hard. Increases accuracy, too...but accurate arrows might take away an excuse for missing! I hate that!
How long are your shafts?
How long is your draw length?
How heavy is the point on the arrow?
And are you left handed or right handed?
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Steelslinger,
If your a right handed shooter you are way underspined with the 180 and almost there with the 125. Nock 6" left at 15 yds. is getting close. Shorten just a bit, say 1/4" and try again. If your using glue on points that would be an easy task, however if using sinewed stone points that will really be fun. Also remember a target or bail can give a false read on nock position,arrows that move, kick or shake after impact can be a problem. A paper frame between you and target will give you an inflight read.
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Big sheet of white paper in a frame also tells you if you are "porpoising".
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The arrows are 32" long. The bow is 50 pounds. The points are field points that glue on one is 125gn the other is 180gn. I'm not sure the spine of the arrows but I was told they were for a 50 lb bow. I am right handed. I think I need a lighter point, or to shorten the arrow a little. Am I thinking right?
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Take an inch off the arrow, put the 125 grain point back on. Shoot a couple more times, being extra careful to have a smooooooth release. If it is still knock left, take off a little more length. If it starts going knock right, then put some more length back on the arrow. >:D
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If your arrows are spined at 50#@28" then they are around 30#@32" with a 125grn. point. Way under spined. You will probably end up around 29" around a 45# spine. Most self bows aren't center shot and the arrow needs to be slightly under spined to allow it to bend around the bow correctly. Each bow and each shooting style causes different amounts of deflection so tune the arrow to yourself. A word of caution though... watch that 180grn. point it's putting your spine in the 20's @32" and could break and hurt you or someone. Shorten 1/4" at a time and shoot and trim and shoot and trim...
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I am new to arrow tuning the 180gn was an experiment to learn what I needed to do, but I think it just confused me. I will start trimming to make it fly straight. thanks for all of the help guys this site is amazing.