Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: k-hat on April 23, 2012, 04:31:53 pm
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I've got some elm recently cut and i'm planning on recurving one. I saw in TBB and elsewhere about roughing out the bow, maybe even floor tiller, and clamping it into desired shape WITH NO MENTION OF HEAT. I know the whole "steam for green, dry for seasoned" mantra, but has anybody ever tried it this way. I'm gonna debark and rough out a stave next Monday, and really would like to try this. The stave was cut about 3 weeks ago and split 2 weeks ago.
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I cut a 3" elm sapling two weeks ago. I split it on my band saw and left a 12" handle area round in the center. Then peeled and sealed the blank. I used a piece I cut off the length under the back on center as a fulcrum. Then I lashed the ends down to dry reflex in. No heat and it bent like rubber.
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Thanks Chris. I'll for sure try it then. If nothing else i can steam the ends if they won't give enough. Was thinking of sealing the back first, and stickin it in the attic on the form to dry quickly.
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The high heat from steam or the heat gun makes the wood pliable. While green wood in itself it more pliable than dry wood, heated wood is much more pliable. Adding a mild reflex would be no problem with a green stave, if just clamped in position. But adding recurves...I think that's a whole different story. Splinters are very likely to lift. I wouldn't risk destroying a good stave, knowing that steam will work just fine.
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Appreciate the admonition Darksoul. I'm planning on leaving the ends thick enough so that i can remove any splintered wood if it does happen. And again, if it looks like it's gonna splinter way to much, I'll go to the heat. maybe cut a scrap piece off another and do a test first :)
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Some cold bending like this will stay in but most of it will probable come out. I would not try bending recurves cold. If they crack when heated they will definately crack cold.
Steam will force some of the staves moisture out helping it dry faster.
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I agree. My deal was reflex only as it dries. Recurves would need heat for sure, boil or steam them. Leave them 1" thick. Elm bends pretty good.
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Just to see i did some cold bend tests. These were short pieces i cut off the belly, the one on the form is actually from the back of a green stave. The only ones that splintered were at about 90degrees sharp angle rather than the gradual.
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/bendtest1.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/bendtest3.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/bendtest2.jpg)
Granted these are some pretty thin pieces (except for the last, bout 3/8"), i was rather rough and quick with them, and almost tried to make them splinter.
it was amazing how well they bent without any problems though. The back piece held together nicely (belly is up, like it would be). I'll do another bend test with a larger piece the size that i'll actually have bending on the stave. I kinda just want to see if it would actually work as in what i've read.
As far as it coming out in tiller, I was thinking tempering the bends after the stave is dry would set them in. Feelin a little experimental since i have some wood to play with ::)
That said, if the last test doesn't work out, I'll boil the ends before i put them in the form. ;D
Thanks guys.
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Just like rubber isnt it? Elm will stretch to the moon.
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Yes sir, elm is quickly becoming a fave bow wood ;D