Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Bert on May 21, 2012, 03:52:42 pm
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Heya fella's,
Searched the forum but didn't find any info on this tool.
I was wondering if anybody had expierence with this rasp:
(http://www.3riversarchery.com/images/large/9948.jpg)
I have my own tools, altough my rasp isn't really up to par.
Would spending 70$ on this one be a good buy ?
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I'm sure that rasp would work very well but I find a cheap Shinto rasp works great aswell
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BAHCO cabinet rasp for me, medium one side and like a file on t'other, brilliant.
Del
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I bet it's good but I prefer a Nicholson #49 and a #50 if you can swing it ;) if you just get one get the 49 :)
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the site says :
The UBR10 compares favorably to the 10" European rasps selling upwards of $90.00 on the fine side, and cuts as fast and smoother than a #49 Nicholson on the coarse side and without clogging.
and other 'good things' bout it. but then again, they are tying to sell it ;)
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Shinto & Farriers rasp for me. I can get both for about half that cost.
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Love my Nicholson #49.
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I think it is a nicholson 49 with a forehandle. $70 isnt a good buy. Buy two Nicholsons or three Shinto's. Try a Shinto and you will never be without one. No chattering on tips, fades or high spots.
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I've got Nickelson #49, and really like it. Bought a farriers rasp as well. That baby can hog off wood!
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I purchased a new #49 and comparing it to the farriers rasp I own, the farriers rasp wins hands down. I've barely used the 49. I've thought about ordering the UBR10 but was waiting for someone with a lot of experience with one to chime in.
And the 49 sure does seem to clog up fast.
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I would recommend the Shinto to any and all.
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I have the Torges Rasp, I liked it when it was new but felt it didn't maintain it's sharpness as long as it should have. Of course I have worn out about 20 ferriers rasps now so I am pretty hard on rasps. My go to for several years has been the nicholson 49, seems to hold up very well and do the job. I use it for some tillering and handle shaping but don't hog of wood with it.
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drop 20 bucks at your local farm supply for a farrier's rasp! i haven't found a more usefull file yet. (haven't tried the shinto, so i have no opinion on those)
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Have any of you tried to sharpen your old files and rasps. I did see where it could be done but the cost seemed prohibitive because of shipping costs both directions.
Not sure where I found this and it may well have been here. I tried the vinegar method and did notice an improvement but nothing compares to a new rasp. I had to copy and paste to bring it back up.
http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2010/12/quick-tip-7/
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I love my ferriors rasp for rapid wood removal. One of these days I'm going to order a shinto to try out. I don't think I would ever pay $70 for a rasp.
Badger: I can see why you go through so many rasps. You make like 2 bows every day ;D How is the bow building retirement going ::)
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I ordered a Nicholson #49 from 3R after Christmas. I hate it. 10 strokes and it's clogged. I can't get it completely unclogged.
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Ok guys, followed up on your advise (wich was: 70$ isnt that good of a deal .., look for a farrier's rasp or Shinto or some said Nicholson #49)
Just came back from the local hardwarestore (big place, has a wide spectrum of tools, comprimising in de speciality in tools in some areas..) where I found some tools I was hunting for.
(http://s14.postimage.org/72kcoxtpd/DSC_0007.jpg)
No farrier's rasp, but i was suprised to find the Nicholson brand here !
Bought this one (not sure how it compares to the #49 you guys speak of)
(http://s14.postimage.org/nrqdylfoh/DSC_0008.jpg)
Its 200mm (20cm/7.87 inch) long, has a rough (the roughest i found in the store) rasp cut on one side,
(http://s14.postimage.org/3lmvzpk0x/DSC_0010.jpg)
and a smoother double cut on the other :
(http://s14.postimage.org/geazzmvmp/DSC_0011.jpg)
Also found these chainsaw-files (3pc) i once heard are ok for string-notches. Also 20cm long, and a diameter of 4mm (just over 1/8")
(http://s14.postimage.org/6v1b6684h/DSC_0012.jpg)
Looking for a scraper I bumped into this (alternative?) as I remember Almostpighunter - Mike uses one like these : A paintscraper with a heavy blade in it
The scraper is 38mm wide (1 and 1/2 inch)
(http://s14.postimage.org/6jjuteroh/DSC_0015.jpg)
and i'm pretty confident I could chase a ring with this !
(http://s14.postimage.org/tmadskt5t/DSC_0017.jpg)
(http://s14.postimage.org/bxin0yhep/DSC_0019.jpg)
So any remarks/reservations about these ? I paid around 20$ for the total, so no harm done there.
I'm willing to look further for better tools, but i'll have to wait till the weekend for that :)
Bert
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Well, I have been getting my shop remodeled like I planned, built a couple of cawls and tool organizers etc. I built only 2 bows since I have been home. So I am behaving pretty good.
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I really like my Nicholson 49 & 50's. However, mine are the "Made in USA" variety. Evidently, Nicholson decided to outsource to Brazil. I purchased a new one recently and experienced the same clogging as Fred and Hedgeapple. My old USA models didn't. So, if you find an old 49/50 that is made in the good 'ol U.S., buy it. If it is from Brazil, I would stay away from it. I'm disappointed because I am wearing out my old ones and need a replacement.
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Your right on Matt. My new Nicholson isnt USA made and it plugs up FAST. I never use it as a result. My Shinto gets the nod.
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PD, where did you get the Shinto? Do any of the chain stores carry them or do you have to order online?
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Scott, I've got the Save Edge rasp and it says Made in USA. I haven't used too many as I'm new to this but IMO the Save Edge is a heck of a rasp and doesn't clog. Might buy another one for backup if one can be found.>Fred
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PD, where did you get the Shinto? Do any of the chain stores carry them or do you have to order online?
Japan Woodworker. They sell direct. Buy two if you have the money to spend. I like the 11" two sided with no forehandle.
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Once again you guys are right. The package reads the following :
(http://s12.postimage.org/duqmc8bml/DSC_0003.jpg)
Wich lets me believe that the tool is being shipped by a company calles Cooper Hand Tools and they distribute to Europe via the netherlands (Drenthe)
The rasp itself bares a machine stamp stating:
(http://s12.postimage.org/hfmhvgg65/DSC_0005.jpg)
Made in Colombia. Def. not USA anymore.
Chances are good i'll see this one plug up fast then ..
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I like the looks of that Nicholson. Hopefully it doesn't clog on you.
I just picked up a Nicholson half round that is a little less aggresive than the one you just got. I've been looking for a good half round to work on fades and handles. When I bought it, they had several hanging on the peg. I noticed the two in the back were a different colored package. I looked them over and realized the two oddballs were made in USA and the rest were made in Brazil. They were all the same model of rasp, but the USA ones had a different tooth design and just looked like they would work better. I wish American companies would stay in the USA >:(
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Well it does look like it has some bite to it. But I lost some hope in it after what the guys said one here earlier.
(http://s13.postimage.org/yyelm8n9z/DSC_0001.jpg)
Time will tell, i'll let you know after i've worked with it a bit.
So,the little files for cutting the stringnotches are probably capable ?
(http://s7.postimage.org/a4r7suifv/DSC_0002.jpg)
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That paint scraper does a fairly good job ! Its fine, precise in the amount of wood it takes off.
But, as scraping goes, its a rather slow process ..
(http://s17.postimage.org/fltq9gg67/DSC_0002.jpg)
I've started digging for that second growth ring, despite the back on this osage stave allready consisting out of 1 full ring (no earlywood)
(It was sealed,oiled and dark, seems only right to dig in one ring deeper)
(http://s17.postimage.org/kn14atnmn/DSC_0004.jpg)
I'm fighting the urge to grap my draw knife to speed up the process, but no. I chose to make this osage bow slowly, well calculated, carefull and right ;)
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Those chainsaw files are great. I use them myself as well. They leave a very smooth groove, so no sanding is needed afterwards. The 4 mm. type you have is somewhat thick for my liking. I prefer the thinnest version (which is about 3.2 mm I believe), but this will certainly do.
One word of advice though. Those chainsaw files are very fragile. It's very hard steel. Treat them as if they were glass rods! If you drop them on the ground...they may break. ALWAYS use them one handed. If you use them two handed, you apply too much pressure and they will snap in half.
I've seen a shinto rasp for sale here in Holland several times. I'm not sure if Belgium has a Gamma, but that's where I've seen them...
If you narrow that osage stave first, there is less width to remove for chasing that last ring down. Don't narrow it to final width, but just remove the bulk of the width first.
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Bert, check your yellow pages for 'Farm & Ranch' type stores. I latest farriers cost me $20 new.
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Thanks for the tip Bevan, will do.
Hey DarkSoul ! We do have 'Gamma' here, in matter of fact there is one 4km from here.
I'll check there on my lunch-break tomorrow.
I completely follow you on why I could narrow the stave first, but I wanted to have the full width in order to draw my bow-design on.
It's a matter of 'safety', leaving all design-options and possibilities wide open ;)
PS: have you checked my last reply on the Hornbeam-thread a while ago ?
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,32841.msg434705.html#msg434705 (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,32841.msg434705.html#msg434705)
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I have the UB10. It has a coarse side and a fine side so does the same job as the Nicholson 49 and 50 which together will cost you more than the UB10. The more expensive rasps are so because the teeth are individually raised by hand in a random pattern rather than machine stamped. As a result, they cut smoother, with less grooving, and more easily removed tool marks. I have not had it clog on me. It is sharp and cuts very fast. Well worth the cost compared to the cheapie hardware store rasp I got when I started.
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Woodbender, Just an old man speaking but I think you made a good decision picking up a good quality tool. Quality hand tools are a good investment. They're like old bows, if you take good care of them and don't sell or trade them off, you can retire with them and they'll be worth more than you invested.
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I use the 49 and 50 and unless the wood isn't seasoned good I don't have much trouble clogging,I do keep a file card handy and always clean when I am finished.
I have tried the paint scraper years ago,didn't really like it as well and a regular scraper,not as good of control for me,also love the Farrier's rasp,especially when I want to hog off some wood. :) I use a 5/32 chain saw file, I buy them in box of 10,pretty cheap that way. I think like a lot of things in bow building,it is all what you get use to. :)
Pappy
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Thanks Fred. I'm a rank beginner, but my father is a talented woodworker and instilled an appreciation for quality tools. I figured $70 once is better than $20 ten times. I also think you tend to take better care of a tool that cost you something!