Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: razorsharptokill on June 13, 2012, 02:45:15 pm
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I have a short bow that I want to sinew. It is tillered to the short string. Should I sinew it before proceeding further? It is Osage.
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Ill tiller a bow to be sinewed to about 18" on a taught long string(before it takes any noticeable set),then sinew it.
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I sinew after I get it to brace height just to check string alignment. I don't think there is any reason to go any further until after the sinew cures.
Sean
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I have two pieces of deer back sinew, would it be better to put it in the handle area and use the leg sinew for the limbs? Also, any tricks for processing elk sinew? This stuff is like kevlar!
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It doesnt matter where you put either type. I use all back sinew for that reason. Busting up leg tendons would force me to abandon sinew. Beat it with a hammer and peel it apart like string cheese for hours.
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Just lost all the great BS I had typed up. Oh well, hear it goes again. Elk leg sinew is tough. That is the first sinew I ever processed and had to resort to things like 2lb and 8 lb sledge hammers. I don't know that deer leg sinew is any easier. Like Pearl, I now use backstrap tendon when I can.
On the sinew-job I just started, a short hupa style Yew paddle bow, I applied the first layer of sinew as soon as I got it floor-tillered. The point with this design of bow, I think, is that the yew is doing all of the compression work and the sinew is doing all of the tension work. So no sense in teaching the wood fibers in the back of the yew stave to do tension work if they are going to end up being compression fibers as a bow.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k633/Acer_circinatum/IMG_9507.jpg)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k633/Acer_circinatum/P1010015-001.jpg)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k633/Acer_circinatum/P1010017-001.jpg)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k633/Acer_circinatum/P1010018-001.jpg)
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That last photo is a textbook example of well laid sinew. Sinew should not look like a 3rd World burn scar, not when you can carefully comb it lightly as it's laid down so that the fibers are all lined up along the bow limb.
Excellent work, CMB!
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I agree with CBM. I never string a bow before sinew. I do not see a point in letting the wood do work that it would not do with sinew on it. I have only made about 10 sinew backed bows in my life so by no means is that the only way.
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CMB- that is a nice looking sinew job, and a great bow design.
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Thanks guys for the compliments on the sinew job....that means alot to me. I have found that laying dry bundle of fibers down onto a wet glued surface, then simultaneously straightening and tamping with thin glue allows me to straighten the bundles and get a good glue set, then pressing firmly with your thumb into the bundle helps smooth things over and pushes out any excess glue.
razorsharptokill, when you work that elk leg sinew, don't try to smash the sinew with a big hammer, rather use a continuous beating, letting the weight of the hammer, or stone, do the work. The tendon should not get warm from the pounding. I have found that you can "plasticize", for lake of a better term, the sinew by pounding it too hard, just use lots of smaller beats. For each minute of pounding, roll the sinew in the palms for a half minute to help separate the fibers.
I think a different design and different wood, might permit adding sinew later in the game without any ill effect. That said, I don't think I would ever sinew a bow already tillered out to target draw length.
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Nice sinew job CMB. I do it about like blackhawk. :) :)
Pappy
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Im likin the looks of that CMB....you can keep posting pics of that lil bad azz powerhouse in the works...sweeeeeeet
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Thanks for the help guys. That paracord is an interesting way to induce reflex. More simple than blocks under the tips.