Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: bubby on August 06, 2012, 04:51:44 am
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i'm having a hard time with my field point's comeing off, started to use 2 part epoxy but i'm still losing some, anyone tryed pinning them?, bub
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Never pinned any but try cleaning the inside of the field point with acetone first. sometimes there is an oil residue left in the point. I use and have been using Ferr-L-Tite for years without any problems . Make sure your point is heated up good.
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Often this is because there is an air pocket trapped between the pile and the wood of the shaft. This is easy to do when you use epoxy. What I do is:
1. taper or reduce the size of the shaft as necessary (taper or parallel points)
2. clean out the pile with white spirit or meths (or acetone etc), as there is often a greasy residue of cutting compound from where the pile was made. I use earbuds/cottonbuds dipped in the solvent to do this.
3. when the pile is dry, make a test fit on the shaft, and mark the shaft where the pile ends on the shaft
4. using the very point of the pile, score a longitudinal groove along the shaft area (in line with the grain of the shaft) which goes inside the pile. Ensure that the groove extends from the end of the shaft along the shaft far enough so that it isn't completely covered by the pile when it is added, i.e just beyond your mark made in #3.
5. put your epoxy into the pile, insert the shaft and ram the pile home against a piece of scrap wood, holding the arrow shaft.
If you got 4# right, excess glue and trapped air will be expelled from the open end of the groove. Wipe off the excess glue and test for straight application of the pile by spinning the arrow shaft on it's pile point in your hand. Correct if necessary, and set aside for the glue to set.
This has always worked for me, and my piles stay on. I use araldite (a 2 part epoxy).
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thank's i'll try the groove, Bub
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Bubby , I have had trouble when my tapers were to short. Bob
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Bub roll up some 80 grit and twist it in and out of the point 5-6 times, blow in it and glue it on. I promise it wont come out. Use regular ferriltite.
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Don't use white spirit to clean field points before glueing them on. White spirit (called Stoddard solvent in the USA) is oil based and will leave an oily residue. Acetone, or methylated spirit (called Denatured alcohol in the USA) will do the job of degreasing well.
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It also helps to take a tap and slightly thread the inside of the point.
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Ias gonna suggest that too, Wind D.
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It also helps to take a tap and slightly thread the inside of the point.
I think the 50 grit twisting inside the way I do may "tap" the point a little as well. Maybe the swirls act as grabbers of glue? Not sure, but I know I lose very few points off my boo shafts since I started doing it.
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I burn any residue out of the point first. I'm trying to remember where I saw those threaded piles for sale. They claim that glue isn't needed, but I bet if you glued them on, they'd stay on!
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What has worked for me is to center tap the point on the side then drill a 1/16th" hole through the tip.The air pocket gets expelled that way with glue coming out of the holes.Never had one come off yet and they have gone into your latest newest 3D target foam which can pull out pretty hard to retreive.Aplying heat to the point to burn off oil residue first is a must.
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Wouldn't burning out any oily residue tend to destroy any heat treatment? A solvent doesn't do this.
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i came up with a solution to my problem >:D, Bub(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/knapping/Picture024.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/knapping/Picture025-1.jpg)
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That will definately work! ;)
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Looks like you fixed it bub 8) I have had this problem too. I have always cleaned inside of points with denatured alcohol. Seemed to happen whether I used a woodchuck (disc grinder) or a hand taper tool. I finally blamed fer-l-tite, and started experimenting with my own hot melt. I have found my mix of 4 parts fir pitch, 1 part beeswax hotmelt works better than fer-l-tite.
Also, make sure, whatever bonding agent you use, to use a fresh wood surface, i.e. don't glue points on over finish.
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That definitly does fix your field point problem. ;) Great looking arrow. As far as attaching field points, I heat the interior of field points over a lit candle for 30 seconds before attaching to the shaft. I use Ferr-L-Tite for glueing. Never had a problem loosing points except for in the coldest winter months.