Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: ionicmuffin on August 27, 2012, 01:22:02 pm
-
I am considering buying a dowel rod maker because i have a lumber store with PERFECT grain fir and ash. i was thinking i could make arrows out of at least the fir. if you guys know of a better way of making shafts then id love to hear it. this way is the best for the money since i can get about 20+ shafts for 5$. i know getting wood from my yard could work too, i just am wondering if this would be an easy and affordable solution. Open to other ideas too.
-
Lee Valley Tools has a dowel making package set up for archers. Comes with any of the standard arrow diameter sockets. Or, check out the threads on hand planing shafts.
-
If it turns out nice shafts that only need a little sanding and you get 20 shafts for $5?, I'd call that good!
-
This is a pretty interesting link on split timber shafts, might help you out. This guy has a few different ways he does what you're reffering to. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,453.0.html
-
you might do a search on youtube, lot's of info and some that you can make fdor practically nothing
Bub
-
I use just about any dowling I can find....my bolts for my crossbow are only 16 inches long anyways....so even if they're a bit crooked, it's ok. I just make sure the crooked part is pointing upwards when I put fletching on it....I use electrical tape or duct tape for the feathers ( saw that on youtube). After making many many bolts, my craftsmanship is getting better, and they fly pretty darn straight! I dont use any field tips for my homemade arrows....I just grind the shaft to a point with a bench grinder.....they sink about 5-6 inches into my 3D deer target at 90 feet.....try it....they work great!!! I'm designing a backing for my target range today.....ive made a giant "bag" outta two free tarps stapled together on 3 sides....(its 10.5 feet wide, and 2 meters high). I have started to fill it in with other tarps and plastic wrap....once it is packed tight with other free tarps (just go to home hardware or home depot and raid their dumpster for plastic wrap....they give it away free), it will stop an arrow or bolt. Now when a shot misses my deer....it wont break and will just sink into the giant bag of plastic wrap.....cant wait for it to be finished.....gonna make another trip to home hardware on monday to get more free plastic wrap!
-
I have the Lee Valley dowel maker for archers. It is awesome compared to the router setups I tried first. I tried several different homemade setups before dropping the coin to get the Lee Valley setup. Keep the blades sharp and it turns out nice shafts that need but a little sanding. It does have a learning curve to get it going properly (drill speed, feed rate, blade adjustment and so forth). But once you get the knack of it you'll be good to go.
BTW Ash makes great shafts too.
-
Check previous threads on this for other ways to make dowels. Here's what I do.
-
If it turns out nice shafts that only need a little sanding and you get 20 shafts for $5?, I'd call that good!
And if you can get a regular supply of good quality wood, you will have a steady source of trade goods for the rest of us! I'll be waiting impatiently for a batch of douglas fir shafts.
-
I have the Lee Valley dowel maker for archers. It is awesome compared to the router setups I tried first...
The router setup must have not been set up right. The shafts come out of mine burnished smoother than sandpaper could ever make them. Only reason to sand would be to help stain penetrate. Plus, I already had the router. My setup cost me no new outlay of cash.
With a router setup, you can make any diameter you want--how about 21/64"? I even make 1/4" shafts for kids arrows. I don't like paying for unnecessary gadgets.
-
I have the Lee Valley dowel maker for archers. It is awesome compared to the router setups I tried first...
The router setup must have not been set up right. The shafts come out of mine burnished smoother than sandpaper could ever make them. Only reason to sand would be to help stain penetrate. Plus, I already had the router. My setup cost me no new outlay of cash.
With a router setup, you can make any diameter you want--how about 21/64"? I even make 1/4" shafts for kids arrows. I don't like paying for unnecessary gadgets.
I don't either. But after destroying way more wood than I wanted on the router setup I got the dowel maker. I tried several different router setups but nothing like you got there. Looks like a good setup.
-
I have the dowel maker, and its nice enough for me, i just ran ceder through it and for about 13$ came up with 21 shafts(the other 3 i was supposed to get i messed up.) each of the shafts were about 62 cents per shaft which is cheaper than poplar dowels, and much straighter. JW i can make a number of shafts from the different woods with almost no bend to it at all, i would definitely be willing to trade you some fir shafts, i just need to get some money to buy the boards. Time it takes to get 9 rough un-sanded shafts all made is about 1 hr. i found it well worth the money since i generally will need at least 11/32" for my arrows. I dont have the money for a router yet so i wont worry about that, maybe later i will buy one.
-
what sizes can it make?
-
well, its meant to only make 3/8" but i was able to get it to shaft them at 11/32" for my sister, it will NOT go smaller and probably wont go bigger than 3/8"
-
darn, i was going to ask if you could make 1/2in for warbows..... can you pm me where you got you dowel maker?
-
John Strunk makes a hand arrow plane. It is pretty slick, he showed me how to make a shaft with it. I intend to buy one from him at some point, I think they were around $70 if I remember correctly.
-
The cheap Lee valley dowel makers come in 1/2, 7/16, and 3/8. They work best with ash, hickory and yellow cedar; I've had no luck with red cedar, pine or fir really (needs some fidgeting with the blade adjustment). Wish I had a router or the real dowel maker.
-
Watch craigslist or yard sales for routers. It doesn't take a powerful machine to make shafts. Mine is a cheap 3/4 hp (IIRC) Black and Decker that I have had since about 1972.
-
I use a similar setup to Jim, though mine is all wood, with the exception of the router. ;)
I rejigged it for 1/4" arrows for my nephews' bow last night, and spun off about 20 shafts in about 15 minutes. Fortunately, I already had the router and all the tools to make the jig. If I didn't, I'd probably go with the lee valley jig too, though the basic jig is $200 and the inserts for the arrows are another $100 if you want all three. You can get a pretty good router for $300 and use it for other things as well.
-
You can get a decent router for a whole lot less than $200 new. And check out eBay. The first one that I looked at would do the job and it has a buy-it-now price of $21.99.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-and-Decker-5-8-HP-Router-Routercraft-Book-/110960352368?pt=Power_Tools&hash=item19d5c09c70 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-and-Decker-5-8-HP-Router-Routercraft-Book-/110960352368?pt=Power_Tools&hash=item19d5c09c70)
Wally world has new ones under $60.
I thought primitive archers were good foragers. Seems more like a pack of consumers here. ;)
The router route is a whole lot cheaper than the trip through Lee Valley and has much more potential.
Math facts, not my opinion.
Jim Davis
-
ill definitely consider getting a router because in the long run i can make almost any size arrow shaft.
-
I prefer the router set up over all others. The lee valley tool works fairly well for specific sizes but not nearly as well as the router jig when properly set up. A while bag I made a jig that would use my table saw in place of the router. That worked well also but the noise got to me.
-
As an aside, after I reach the limit of how far I can run the square stock through my setup, I take the drill to the other end of the dowel, chuck it in the drill and pull it on through. No need to leave a couple of inches uncut.
I suspect the same could be done with the Lee Valley, if it is clamped or mounted in a way that gives access to the far end of the dowel.
-
Jim, that set up has a router underneath right? The 25$ 3/8ths lee valley dowel cutter is fine if you're just doing a dozen now and then or you want crossbow bolts fast - but anymore than that and it is too limited for sure. I think I'll go router hunting this weekend.
-
Danlaw, yes, there is a router underneath. Even a very low horsepower router is plenty for this. It's only removing a small amount of wood at a reasonable rate.(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d72/Reparrow/100_1407.jpg)
That aluminum plate the router is hanging from is part of something I found at the dump when I lived in Maine. A piece of plywood should be a good substitute, though it might be noisier. I wear ear protection when I use mine anyway.
Jim
-
I have the cheap lee valley and have been making shafts from hickory, maple and ash. To get smaller shafts I use my thumb plane. This weekend though I put together a jig with some left over tng. the groove is 1/2 inch and when I line it with sandpaper I can get the shafts down to 11/32. I'm thinking by doubling over the sandpaper it can get smaller.
-
The sandpaper method is certainly effective and useful. A hinged board with matching grooves was being used at least a century ago to finish shafts. It's the way I did it too before I set up the router. You can make better shafts with a "sanding book" than can be made by the commercial dowel molders. It just takes longer and leaves more to a judgement of when you have sanded the right amount--too much will make the shaft undersize.
Jim
-
OK Jim, I got off my ass and bought a 35$ plunge router off of craigslist (brand new - never been plugged in!). I've designed a multi hole jig (12$ lumber store), now I just have to put it all together. I'll post some pics after I run a few arrows through.
-
Cool! We'll be watching.
Jim