Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: JW_Halverson on August 30, 2012, 01:21:29 am
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Anyone else ever have problems with getting Duco cement to adhere to shellac (Zinsser Bullseye spray from a rattle can)?
I even scuffed the finish with steel wool before applying.
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Don't know JW but you probably know the adjuvant for duco is acetone and the adjuvant for shellac is denatured alcohol.I suppose it's the same even coming from a spray can.What are ya doing?My quess is fletching arrows.....LOL.
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Uhhhhhh I guess that's what you are doing this is the arrow thread......LOL.
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Finally caught up with the rest of us, eh Beadman?
Anyone else use shellac on arrow shafts? If so, what did you use to bond the fletching to the shaft and what kind of result did you get?
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J-dub thats the first time I have heard Duco not sticking to anything. Have you tried teh Saunders NPV glue? Its all I use now and have no problems with it. Got tired of Fletchtites inconsistency a few years back.
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Never heard of Saunders NPV. Is it something I'd find in the hardware store or do I have to go to a archery specific dealer?
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JW- Try Mattson's Industrial Lacquer. Duco has no trouble bonding to it. It also takes only 5mins to completely dry!!! When coating 12 arrows, the first 6 are dry by the time I get to number 12!!! It's a little on the pricey side but completely worth it.
G
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Saunders NPV is a fletching glue Jdub. Arhcery retailers all have it, mostly all.
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JW- Try Mattson's Industrial Lacquer. Duco has no trouble bonding to it. It also takes only 5mins to completely dry!!! When coating 12 arrows, the first 6 are dry by the time I get to number 12!!! It's a little on the pricey side but completely worth it.
How does that Mattson's lacquer stand up to heat? I used the gasket lacquer from 3Rivers and loved it. I could dip a dozen shafts for three coats in under 15 minutes and they were cured out in an hour or so. BUT...if you ever have to use a little heat to restraighten a shaft the finish was ruined.
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I have had problems bonding duco to spar urithane over leather die...switching to platinum fletch tite, it sets better...
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Break out the two part epoxy and call it done ;)
P.S. Dont get it on your fingers though >:(
Tracy
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JW- You know, I'm not sure. I've always hand-straightened finished arrows.
G
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JW- You know, I'm not sure. I've always hand-straightened finished arrows.
G
Huh, musta been cedars. Ever play with hickory or ash shafts? If they even hear about moisture three counties over, they will require a week of heat straightening!
I have used a laot of sitka spruce shafting in the past and once you heat straightened them a few times they tend to stay good for years! But the heavier ash and hickory shafts I wanna use for hunting just need me to light a fire under 'em now and again!
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I use duco over gasket laquer with no problem.I gasket lacquer them after I stain them with the alcohol leather dye with no problem.Fletch tite platinum does'nt work as well.I think it's meant to use over those vinyl wraps they sell.
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Had good luck with the gasket lacquer and Duco combo, too. Just bad luck with the gasket lacquer.
I did have one sitka spruce arrow get lost in the grass once and was outside for a few days. The dew in the grass swelled the shaft and the gasket lacquer shattered and chipped off. That and the problem with heat (re)straightening is why I left off the G.L.
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JW- I've actually been able to hand straighten all of my shafts without heat once they're finished. With the exception of purpleheart it hasn't really been a problem for me. I don't really like cedar shafts, especially for hunting. I find them too light.
G