Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mike_H on September 06, 2012, 09:10:22 pm
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here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOKzs-l0Ntk&feature=youtu.be
Any and all hints, tips and tricks are welcomed.
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Mike sorry I had no idea you drew 30"s!!! You might want to make the bow bend thruogh the handle..... 66"s is a bit short for a stiff handle. The area you are concerned with in the belly of the stave will be long gone by the time your bow is finished. If you want all the wave and bends can be removed with heat. Hackberry responds to heat very well.
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It's fine, I'll just adjust to the length of about 28". I think I got it about right anyway with the belly taper anyway. Let's just hope this one turns out OK.
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Not sure on your experinece level, but most selfbows eat up at least 1" of draw with their shallow, throatless grips. I lost nearly 2" switching from glass bows.
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I'm working with basic instructions from Coaster500, so I think he knows what he's doing. I'll leave the draw at 28" and work out my shooting style so that it shoots accurately.
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Mike this was the sister stave to your stave. It was my forth bow and a sister stave to yours. I only draw 27"s but tillered it to 28"s and 64"s long. I toasted the belly but it did take about 1" of set but really shoots great. I pretty much had the same profile as yours and dry heat fixed it. Good luck!!
Kip
http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/Hackberry%20Bow%20project%20Oct%202011/?action=view¤t=Hackadexterous026.mp4
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Ya know. I just remeasured my draw length with proper form and it is 28".
That's a nice looking sister! hope mine comes out as good.
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Good....... at 28" you're in the pocket :)
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I am continually amazed by the number of people that are sure their draw length is nearing a full yard long, but somehow still come in at 28" or less.
I know you are not going to want to hear this, Mike, but slow down on this stave. Take your time, enjoy the process. Do the work in small bites and spend more time in between those bites looking at what has been done and figuring out what needs to be done. This ain't no race and there is no good prize at the end for coming in fast. Post lotsa pics, too!
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Great advice JW. Cogitate as my daddy would say.
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Actually, I'm doing just that. I haven't gotten the belly taper down to the drawn line yet but knew I had to stop for the day. I won't be able to get on it again until Sunday.
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Got some more work done on it. Sorry for the bad camera work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLcJReA8qdU&feature=youtu.be
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what jw said, it's like hunting, when you think your going slow, slow down some more, it aint a race, lot's of thing's to miss if your not carefull, Bub
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Looks like progress Mike :)
Be careful around those fades this time.... once that wood is gone ya can't put it back....
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There's still a little that needs to be removed from that first limb. But it's not bad. I might work on the other today. but I'm not sure. I might test out a new pressure flaker instead.
I'm glad y'all think she's looking good.
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Got the other limb set now. Been looking at the preliminary tiller so far and she's looking good. Unfortunately that took out any reflex the stave had, but I figured I could heat in any if I wanted.
The question remains, do I glue the tip overlays first then the raw hide or the other way around?
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Mike you can do it before or after, just don't glue the overlays over the rawhide. I normally get my bow bending a bit on the floor then I toast it over my form if I am going to add reflex then I glue on the rawhide. I rasp the tip angles and mate the overlay edges to the rawhide edges. The I shape and finish the tips and cut the groves. Then I finish my tillering.
This is a rawhide backed Mulberry I am putting the finishing touches on and I used the above method...
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/tipsrawhide.jpg)
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Thanks Coaster, I knew I couldn't glue the tips over the raw hide. This bow should be done before the end of the month. :)