Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: crooketarrow on September 10, 2012, 08:13:46 am
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I have a question I'm putting on fake copper head skins from 3 rivers for someone. It's my first time with fake skins.
It's really lightly colored. Looks really unreal. Way to light fake looking for me.
Out side of maybe light stain dose any one know how to darken them up a little.
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Ive been wondering about those as well. Have you already glued them on? Or do they just look light before you applied them? Just curious how they would look compared to the real thing I guess. Josh
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Mine looked darker after I glued them on and coated them with a coat of TBIII. They had the texture of the cloth but I put a couple of coats of poly then sanded and repeated that several times until they were nice and glassy smooth.
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I would tend to think once glued and clear coated they will darken up, you could wet one and see if it darkens up to give you an idea of how much darker they will get before you take the time to glue up.
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if you have any that need's trimmed, glue it on some wood and see how it look's after, if you want it darker than what you get on the test dye the back of the bow, Bub
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Try staining the back lightly first Roy.
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I had the same experience as Autologus-but used several coats of tru-oil-my problem was that the edges after I trimmed them had threads unravel a bit (after gluing with or without the final finish). Even when I sanded-I just did not like the look. I've had a difficult time getting a really nice edge like when I use skins, silk or linen. So if ya'll can get a nice looking edge when you trim the snake skin pattern cloth--I'd appreciate your posting how you did it.
Thanks......
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fake snake skin? I cna't beleive a truist or two hasn't already been in here whining about the very idea of using the stuff.
Where do you get the stuff? I've looked at a couple craft stores here and can't find any.
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I glued mine on and then coated it with a good coat of TBIII, when it was starting to dry I trimmed it with an exacto knife to get it close. After it dried hard I used 60grit paper on a block and sanded it at about a 45 degree angle across the edges and got it fairly smooth, its not perfect and you can still feel a rough spot in one place but its not bad.
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I've used them, they do darken up a little with the glue. If ya want way darker, maybe try using the titebond glue thats made for dark woods, dries brown instead of that yellow/tan color.
Tattoo Dave
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No I have'nt glued it on yet.
Staining the back is what I thought also. THANKS PEARL
Tattoo I did'nt know you could get tiebond that dryed dark. I tty cutting a peice and glue it on a peice of OSAGE since thats what it's going on.
MAKENZIE guy did'nt have any copperhead shins and the fakes are cheap and long. THATS THE BEST PART one skin covers the whole bow.
These would really have to darken up to even be close to looking real.
THANKS FOR YOU'LL HELP I'LL DO SOME TESTS.
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I just ordered these from 3R. Wondering if you need to be careful not to stretch them...I suppose they may look distorted if you do right?
I'm thinking either stain first or a coat of orange/amber shellac over top would darken them before final finish. Shellac sticks to everything and everthing sticks to shellac, so I hear....
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TBII dries a somewhat transulant brown. As far as the edges fraying I would try a little bit of a sawing motion instead of a pull/cut method. Just a thought. Danny
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When I have done fabric backings and had trouble with the edges fraying out, I just rubbed wood glue into the frayed edges, let it dry, and sanded it down. End of problem.
We've had a number of these fnake skin backed bows show up here in the last month or so. So far, I think they have all looked pretty darn good. I noticed they are were all copperheads, too. Wonder if the other pattern is going to be commercially successful.