Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Sambone on September 17, 2012, 01:18:08 pm
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(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq1/sambone_01/8C2B6278-F467-4CF3-9309-D9D5F1E57FD0-11654-00001158362B7E44.jpg)
My first attempt at building a bow. I need to lighten it still pulls way to heavy. Wanting 50-55# draw. I'm trying to figure out the tillering. Let me know your suggestions. The bow is a red oak board bow.
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Looking pretty good,is it already braced ? or still on the long string ,be sure to not pull it more than the disired weight,just work it down a little at a time,looks like it could use some work mid limb,mainly the right limb but both could move some more. :)
Pappy
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Not braced yet. Just long string. I will take more off mid limb then brace it and check again.
Thanks
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i cant tell from the picture, is it going to be stiff handled, or is it going to bend full compass
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It's going to bend a little in the handle. The deminsions are 68" NTN. Handle to mid limb is 1 7/16" tapering to 1/2" at nocks. Back to belly tapers from approx. 5/8" from fades to 1/2" at nocks. Handle is 3/4" thick.
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Couple of questions. Brace height 6"-7"? Do I need to back the bow with linen? And if I do can I put shake skins in top of the linen? I also have a fair amount of sinew.
Sry for all the questions but this is all new ro me being first attempt at making a bow.
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You can brace it lower the first time you brace it. You could actually brace it about as high as it is now. Brace it as soon as you can, it does change the whole bend. Then brace it a bit higher and another and another till you're at full bracing height. I feel it is better not to brace it too hard, if you're at full draw weight only just after braceing that may result in set. Just my feeling, I'm not very experienced at all. But I still remember clearly my first attempts ;D
Wheter you have to back it or not depends on how the back of the bow is made. You need to tell more on this or make a pic.
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I keep it on the long string until I can achieve brace height without reaching desired draw weight of course . Then you can brace with a proper string and as mentioned ,don't pull it anymore than your desired weightat any given drawlength. Exercise the limbs repeatedly before drawing to the next step on the tiller tree after every time you remove material.Keep checking the weight. The bow should be tillered pretty close by the time you brace it . After that it should be just reducing the weight and minor touch ups. I do allot of that with the bow braced to save time ,as most of mine have stiff tips and don't need much work at the ends. Be carefull not to nick the string with the scraper. I've never done it ,but I can't imagine it would be a good thing .If you have concerns with the grain you can back it with linen . Spread the titebond III on , lay on the cloth and work it into the glue until it is soaked through everywhere.I then spread some more on and smooth it out removing any excess.let it dry and trim it up.If you are using cloth it is uniform enough that it shouldn't change the tiller at all.
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Do you have any pictures of the back of the bow so we can see the grain? You may not have to back it at all if the grain is good enough :D
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(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq1/sambone_01/E632C752-BD46-45C5-8C3A-57CB39339CA2-4773-000006866E65E481.jpg)
Here is a pic of the grain. No run offs and it is the same on the back and belly. Tomorrow I will post a pic of it braced. I have not drawn it back to final weight yet. I do exercise the limbs between every step I do. I just made a string tonight to string it tO brace height.
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that back looks fine from where I sit, should not have to back it. If you decide to brac it relatively late in the tillering, leave the tips stiffer than planned, they'll bend more when braced than on the long string.
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that grain looks nice. just take your time with it and work the wood slowly. I hope that you split that nice piece down the middle, and are using it to make 2 bows :D
here is a picture of the grain on my first bow. also from a red oak board. I did not need to back it.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img31/2660/dscf0154cw.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/a/img31/2660/dscf0154cw.jpg)click to open it in a bigger window.
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I am actually going to get three out if it maybe four another 70" one or slightly shorter and two about 58" long. Tonight I will brace the one I'm working on and really start to see what I've done. It's been a cool journey so far.
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(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq1/sambone_01/EF2B890D-3F51-453F-BC0A-7A8768608D07-474-000000C1BE32B7E9.jpg)
Ok here it is. Brace height is 6" and she draws 48# at 28". Any tips and comments from you experienced bowyers? Looks to me like lower limb is a tad stiffer thaan upper limb. Going tO stain it then probably tonge oil. For my first bow I think it turned out ok. Wanted 50-55# draw weight so I came in pretty close at 48#. I'll shoot her this weekend and let you know how it goes.
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It looks really good, I can't wait until we can see it finished.
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it look's stiff mid limb out to me, i'd take some scrapes from both limbs and see how she look's, Bub
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Thanks. I kinda thought so too. But I am so inexperienced at this I'm not sure and why I need all the advise I can get. There have already been lots of lessons learned on this one and I have more boards to practice on. I also have three Osage staves that after more experience I will tackle those or trade one for help building one.
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Del had a great idea, for full compass tiller hold a cd or a plate up and you will see where it need's work, Bub
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I don't understand what you are saying. Can you please explain full compas tiller?
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Arc of the circle, full compass, etc. Basically if you want the tiller to look circular. You can hold a plate up from a distance to see if the bow is correctly following a circular arc.
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Have you heard of the "tillering gizmo"? I recommend taking a look at the post below. This tool helps me greatly in tillering!
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001047
Basically, it is a 1inX1in square block of wood, 6in long with tapered ends. You drill a hole through the center of the wood, and then a little bit bigger of a hole halfway into it that is big enough to bang in a nut. A wooden pencil will get screwed into this nut. You then put your bow on your tillering tree and start pulling it down to your draw length. Lay this block of wood flat on your bow and run it up and down the limbs, keep your eye close to it and find the spot that has the biggest gap between your bow and this block. Adjust the pencil so that it is just off of touching your bow. After the pencil is adjusted, run this wood up and down the whole bow- the pencil will mark your stiff spots and show you were you need to scrape.
Once you can get it to run a full pencil line on your bow without any breaks, your tiller should be close to perfect. You may still need to eye it though for some finishing touches. As well as keeping an eye on your fades if you have any.
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I think it looks great. Sometimes pics don't do a bow justice. If it is shooting good, I wouldn't worry about it much. Shoot some arrows through it and see how it settles in. Sometimes folks leave a good bow on the tiller tree too long, pulled too close to full draw for too long (looking for perfect tiller) and end up with too much set or messing up a good thing. Remember to not leave it at full draw for more than a few seconds. I did that once upon a time... :( I think that your tiller looks good and that it looks like a shooter to me. Great first bow. Now your hooked. Enjoy it and build you another one before long. What types of wood do you have access to? I think that if you can make a good bow out of red oak, you will find that you probably won't have much trouble with making a first rate bow out of the more preferred bow woods.
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I have a couple if Osage staves. I also have access to some hickory. I have enough Ted oak left to make another board bow or two which I will do for more experience before tackling the Osage.
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Heck yeah! Sounds like a plan. Warning - this bow building stuff is terribly addictive! Hickory is very forgiving. You really have to screw up to break one outta hickory. I have only made one out of osage so far, so I probably ain't the guy to talk to about it. There are enough osage fanatics on this site to give you all the help you need though. They talked me through my first one. Welcome aboard. :)