Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: BowEd on October 13, 2012, 02:23:51 pm
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I've been splitting larger choke cherry logs here[10 to 14 inches thick] and triyng to get a straight edge stave without any twist.Choke cherry bark is very hard to read.I've tried the south/north side,the east/west side.Aggaravating me.A sapling is an option I know,but I want a flatter back with more heartwood showing.
With a straight log like these were would it be alright just cut it in half lengthwise with a chain saw and then rip it on my bandsaw to staves?Then wait to see how it contorts when it dries I guess....LOL.Probably have to clamp it to keep it straight as it dries I don't know.
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Sounds like my experience with vine maple. I now just let it season for several months then reduce it with a bandsaw or hatchet, then let it dry further. When I try to split vine maple, wet or dry, 9 times out of 10 the split follows some twist. Maybe choke cherry is similar.
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I can't comment on whether or not it can handle grain violations that you might get by using a chainsaw or bandsaw, but I can tell you it will likely twist if it's not clamped down while it dries. It responds well to dry heat if you have to make any corrections.
I didn't know chokecherry trees grew to be that thick!
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Haha, same thing is happening to me. I got about a 5" stave and split it down. It twisted all the way around, so now i'm just making two corner-to-corner bows ;)
Chokecherry, hawthorn, and serviceberry all split badly most of the time. I think it's best to either cut it with a saw like ur saying or just get a smaller, 2-3" diam. sapling.
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I did manage to get a pair of billets that both lay fairly flat for 3 feet or so.Maybe make a slightly reflex/deflex design glueing it then like you say it takes to heat treating good heat treat a reflex in the outer limbs.Then rawhide back it.
What do ya think?
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That would definitely be doable :)
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Well I'm used to splitting hedge,hickory,elm,&mulberry etc. and never had this much of a problem.
Yes old choke cherry will get that big.When it gets that big the branches bark look like the saplings.The trunk bark is very scalely and very hard to read if it is twisted or not.
Kind of like the dimpled look it gives ya on the sapwood after you remove the bark.Make for a fantastic looking back with the right finish.It's supposed to be a smooth shooting type wood.I like that.
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Band saw.
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Ya, I can not figure out the bark on chokecherry, Most trees you can see twist in the bark, but not chokecherry. Serviceberry is the same way. I just cut a few and see if I get lucky with a strait split. I dont want to use a bandsaw, I want a good clean stave that can handle a long draw
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That's some monster choke cherry! You'd be lucky to get half that here.
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Biggest chokecherry I've ever cut up here in Canuck Land was about 6". Had a hell of time getting it to split straight and not warp horribly when drying. I've yet to make a bow outta CC. Tried once. The staves I ended up with didn't seem to be worth the effort. The bigger trees had a lot of rot in the trunks as well.
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I'm sitting here in southern Iowa.These larger choke cherries are here.They are'nt rotten either although I suppose it does happen.Along with the saplings.Most times the first 7 to 8 foot is clean of limbs too.Split they smell like it too.They have a little bit of sapwood that can be left on.The Amish here say it is and have been cutting it for years for pallet wood along with every other kind of wood for pallets.Luckily there are enough I can afford to make a mistake.I'll keep after it.
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Well got my choke cherry staves drying.From a 8" log and a 5" log.Ripped em on my band saw.Took the bark and cambium off and shellaced it.It has'nt been very long but I bet they're going to dry straight and good.I'll see.That white wood sorta drifts a little in the heartwood a lot like ERC.I said I was going to stay after it and glad I did.
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Hey Ed, can you post some pics of the heartwood/sapwood on those CC's?
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No JW I'm still living in a cave here.....No cell phone camera or digital camera.The sapwood is generally from a 1/2" to maybe 3/4".Seems like the sapwood is thicker towards the bottom of the tree sometimes.But from a 5" tree you can get two all heartwood bows if you want.Why?