Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Moggy on November 02, 2012, 12:09:54 pm
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Do most of you fellas run Dacron on your self Bows and Laminates?
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I think most do but thier missing out.
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Fast Flite. Nothin' but. I use Dacron for tillering and long string. Others on here will swear by Dacron however. The FF is thinner, lighter, stronger and less stretch. I have heard people complain that it will damage a self bow. I've been using it for 15 years or so and have seen not the slightest bit of damage to any bow from it, ever. It can cut into the nocks on softer wood, but I add a few extra strands at the loop and the knot to fatten it up and strengthen those areas. I also have been using tip overlays which eliminate that issue altogether. Fear not, the next guy will extole the virtues of B-50. Your good either way IMO.
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Dacron nothing but! But that's only cause i'm workin on the cheap right now. nothing against fast-flight but the cost. What i haven't considered is maybe the cost balances out since you need fewer strands?
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You can get away with half as much FF.
You might need a bit more serving though.
To double serve where you nock your arrows.
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Dacron is good and FF is also good. I think dacron looks more authentic on selfbows, but FF on flight bows will give you a little bit extra. Use nock overlays and horn. FF is the most recommended on English War bows.
:)
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You cant visually tell the difference between the two...
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baler twine :) waterproof, cheap and performance wise campares quite closely to dacron
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My single concern was damage to the Bow! If I can,, I will use FF, IF there is a larger percentage that I will ruin a Bow I just worked on, I would use Dacron.
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I use Dacron. On my last bow I figured I'd try FF to tiller it and it split the upper nock. No FF me. I'd try it for tillering on osage with no problems. Jawge
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So, intrigued by this thread, I looked FF on a supplier website for the first time. I see a spool of FF serving material. I'm trying to consider how superior tensile strength and non-elasticity would effect the serving process. Is this something worth spending on?
Thanks,
John
Boise
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I use the FF serving. Only because its what I have. I can't remember the diameter.
I dunno what I'll use next time.
There are some that are some sorta plastic. I havnt seen them used in years but I wouldnt go there. They seem inflexible and heavy, however durable or inexpensive.
I feel nylon serving is okay. It is added only for durability and to increase the service life of the string. In 25 years of shooting Ive only worn out a couple of servings. And thats at the nock point.
And for me, FF string is the only way to go. Hard woods or overlays and ya shouldn't have an issue.
I have know many bowyers that have had great success with it. Names you all know.
Shoot a B50 strung bow then switch to a FF and your jaw will drop to the floor.
I dont know how many strings come from a single spool but if you break it down per string, it is worth it many times over.
Considering you can break or lose an arrow on the first loose.
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Jawge,,do you think the fact that having no give when the shot hits dynamic brace that the FF string does not have any give? Seems all the energy would transfer and shock an all wood Bow (self bow) like a cable. Have you had many failures on selfys with Dacron? I'm thinking the only reason anyone has a limb tip phenolic is to keep the string from cutting thought the nock? I know it would undoubtedly strengthen the tip in the horizontal and linear plane of the limb too?
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I'm not speaking for George he has been building longer than I, a known fact ;)
But
I only use overlays for decor, I have never, ever had a problem with FF. Im not alone either.
Folks are just resistant to change.
It's why people still listen to classic rock...
But of course, take the info you have at hand and make you own determination.
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I actually was just stringing the bow for the first time. I wasn't shooting. But sharpen60 is right. Everyone needs to make their own decisions. I don't want to stand in the way of progress. This is a red oak stave bow. I just glued the split back and put on an overlay. Jawge
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Would probably use ff if I wasn't poor
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I use FF and i recommend it. The bowyers that I have learned from, John Strunk and Gordon, both use it exclusively so I started out with it and never looked back. I often use overlays but not entirely. I have a yew bow and a hickory bow with self nocks and neither have shown any signs of distress with the FF.
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I also switched from B50 to FF. In some cases, especially with lower dense wood, no good results (damaged bows). So one day I found BCY425X, and IMO this is a very good material with no creep and a bit of stretch witch is essential for primitve bows. Now I make all my strings with this material, strengthen it up at the ears with some short additional B50 leftovers. My strings are very thin, for example only 1,3 mm for a 70# bow, using2 x 6 strands.
this thin strings have two effects: first mass is low (increasing speed) and second the string can stretch a little (not possible with thick strings).
There are alot of differnt FF out on the market, I'm interested what you guys are using ...
simson
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TS1 for me.
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I use b-50 on normal target bows. Up to 60-70#. On English warbows and flightbows I prefer FF or "dynaflight" On a heavy warbow the B-50 is gonna be too thick. FF "kevlar" is more safe and make a heavy bow more comfortable, because the string is thinner. On flight bows you got som extra yards, metres, feet..............with FF. Maybee you win the competition. ;D On normal target bows, B-50 is good enough. Thats my opinion. .-)
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I have been using B-50 and don't have anything bad to say about it. I have nothing against trying FF, I just am cheap by nature and it doesn't look like these two spools that I bought a couple years ago will ever run out. Whatever you decide, learn to make your own strings. It will save you lots of money over buying bowstrings.