Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bobbykelley on December 11, 2012, 03:45:35 pm
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I'm buying 2 osage staves and their 42 1/2" l, 2 1/4" w, 1 1/4" t. Could I make a ok bow out of one of these? Just getting them to practice on but was wondering if I might be able to get a bow that mybe my sons could shoot. ThanksfThanks for any input.
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At 42 1/2" you will have to limit the draw length to less than 21" and even then the bow should bend throughout it entire length. You could splice the two staves together at the handle and make one full sized bow.
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At 42 1/2" you will have to limit the draw length to less than 21" and even then the bow should bend throughout it entire length. You could splice the two staves together at the handle and make one full sized bow.
You could sinew back it to get a little bit more drawlength, or assurance I should say. I would shoot for a backed bend in the handle d bow if it was me. Or you could splice some siyahs/recurves/molly levers on it too. Although, one of my first "real" bows I ever made was a 36" (or so) sinew backed osage bow, made from an osage branch a guy in kentucky let me have after he cut down an osage tree in his back yard. It might of been longer as it seems unlikely to me too, but that is what I remember, and it was a small bow. I made the bow with a kitchen knife and some sandpaper I think, I might of had a couple files too. It was the first sinew backing, and the first hideglue I had ever made as well. I had just discovered TBB's and was on a roll, >:D. The bow pulled about 50# or maybe a little more at my full 26" draw. (Stacked like crazy.) And only one limb had about 1/2" set. It didn't have the best tiller, after sinewing backing, the tiller went a bit asymmetrical. It was also the first bow I ever gave a nice finish too.
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I would suggest splicing the two together. It's much easier to make a longer bow as a beginner. Also splicing is not hard to do as long as you have access to a bandsaw :) just my 2 cents... Take it for what it's worth :)
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My 2 cents are the exact same as Will's.
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And those 4 cents are worth a lot more than 4 cents. Just plain good advise!
Scott
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If you dont have a bandsaw the take down sleeves are a breeze.
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Thankw everyone for the replies. I may give the splice a try but to tell you the truth now that pearl drums brings it up I kind of like the idea of the sleeves. I seen someone else on here talking about it and thought that was cool. Pearl do you know of a help along for doing sleeves?
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Ill bring it up. Its vague at best, mostly pics.
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Ok so I got my billits today. And this is what they look like. On the back it looks like chuncks taken out, whats the best way to get it smooth? Also I see one knot in one of the billits should I put it closer to the handle? I know I need to splice them or do a sleeve. I think the sleeve would be easier so I my order a set. Any input on the best way to make a bow out of these 2 would be very helpful and I mean any help. Thank you.
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Get the draw knife out and chase a ring down to get a clean back.
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Thats some good wood by the way. Nice rings, good color and very good ratio.
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Its not uncommon to pull a few splinters when chasing a ring. From the looks of those billets I'd say you could just use them without going down another ring. Its fun and good practice to chase a ring though.
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Those backs look like they were worked green (with no regard for a growth ring) and then sealed. That is what I would do in that situation too. Every time I work green osage it tears out like that. I would for sure go down to a single ring on them. I agree with Pearlie, those look very good to me. As for knots, you just have to follow the growth ring up and over or around them on the bow back. Unless a knot is loose you should be able to tiller just fine with the knot there. If it's loose, take the knot out and you'll likely have a hole in your bow. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
George
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What would be the eazest way to get billets square so that I can splice them? Don't think a 9" bandsaw can handle it.
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Those look like some great billets! I'm with pearl and George, definatley chase a ring. It's true that it's common to pull up and tear some wood when chasing a ring. But I only do that when I'm hogging off wood somewhat haphazardly on the way down to a desired ring. I would never leave that on a back of a selfbow.
As for squaring up easily without a bandsaw... That's gonna require you layout some square lines on the ends and get after it with your hand tools. I would either start with a drAwknife or ferriers rasp then swap to a 49 or 50 rasp as you get close to the lines.
Good luck! Looks like you have some great potential bow wood!
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The best way to lay out splices is to draw them on a piece of paper, lay out a center line on your billets and glue the splice pattern to your billet matching the pattern to the center line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/limbreplacement3.jpg)
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OK so I got my billets together (not the best splice job but I think it will do). But I had a few ?'s. They ended up with about 2 7/8" reflex, the top has a little more then the bottom, I kept the back of the bow as close to level as I could. Will this be OK? And there was a few knots/pin's on the back I left extra rings around them, should I sand them down some? On the belly of the bow there are some checks and a knot any hints on how to take care of these? And one last thing the limbs twist a little but they do it opposite of eachother, should I wait until I rough out the bow before trying to bend then back? Thanks for any help. Here's some pic's.
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I recognize the staves and he does have some nice osage but he's a little careless when taking off the bark and sapwood. I would definitely take the time to chase a ring on this one or else at least fill in the voids and back it.
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Well my splice didn't hold up. Any suggestions? I used a 2 part epoxy, but the side of the of the z splice came unglued.
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Never used epoxy for a splice. I use URAC or its new replacement. Its an actual wood bonding 2 part glue that doesnt let go for anybody.
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I've only used epoxy and have never had a splice fail. Sometimes on the edges it helps to run a piece of tape to hold the glue where you want it. Never use 5min epoxy on a splice, too brittle. I've always used smooth-on. Pricey, but it always works.
George
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The smooth-on is what I used. Don't know maybe my splices didn't match up good. I've matched them up better now and will let it set for a week or 2. Thanks for the help.