Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: nativenoobowyer86 on December 22, 2012, 11:00:15 pm
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Hi there
I have just received a bamboo slat and stick of Ipe, I have put in the usual research time and have come out with a couple questions, or just a little advice.
1. Is my belt sander my best option for flattening the bamboo, i have the usual hand tools, the aforementioned belt sander, and my bandsaw.
2. Is it completely necessary to build a jig-a-mijig or can i just draw lines and carefully taper the thing.
3. I only have TB3 for glue, is that a huge issue or do i need to invest in some smooth-on?
4. Is "as thin as i can get it" too thin? i read 1/8 near the center and 1/16 near the tips.
5. I noticed some heat treat the bamboo, and some do not. If TB3 is my glue, I dont need to heat treat? I am not intending to do anything crazy in terms of stress,
the design I was hoping to go for is 64" TTT 63" NtN bendy handle.....well my Ipe slat is just short of 1 1/4" wide throughout so it will be relatively stacked and look very English (welsh?) Longbow-ish
6. Any thickness taper input for the bamboo/finished bow would be greatly appreciated as i have never worked Ipe before. also what tools are recommended for working the Ipe belly.
geez, there were more questions than i thought there would be :) I sure you guys have something for me :P
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I did a bendy handle BBI a while back I roughed mine out 1" wide and 3/4" thick in the middle and tapered it to 1/2" wide and 7/16" thick. It was 1/2" thick in the center and 5/16" thick at the tips when finished. 64" TtT 53# @ 28"
I cut a lot of the back of the bamboo off with my bandsaw and then used my belt sander to make it very thin, it was about 1/8" in the middle and only 1/16 at the tips. I believe you only heat treat if it is going on the belly. I used smooth-on but I've heard people have great success with TB. If you use TB make SURE everything meets up perfectly and the surfaces are nice and smooth. Smooth-on will fill gaps and actually needs a rough surface to make the best bond, I used a hacksaw to "tooth" the surfaces before gluing.
Here are a couple of pics of mine.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8318/8041192017_4aaf3686b0_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8462/8041192427_45281956f4_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8309/8036974862_665053463b_z.jpg)
This was the thread over on TG http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=008943#000000
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1 1/4" wide is just about right, i've got a bbe 63"ntn, at 29" draw and a stiff handle, Bub
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Thats great, thanks for the input fellas. I am going to go take a crack at flattening the Boo with hand tools while it is still thick, if it goes well i shall thin it out. If not, I will get on the belt sander :) doesnt seem like there will be very much wood in this bow, compared to the white woods i have been working lately.
I will be adding a couple inches of reflex as well.
Happy Holidays!
NNB
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When preparing bamboo backing I start by roughing out the taper with a bandsaw followed by a hand plane, then a scraper. When I have more or less the dimensions I want I then flatten it on a belt sander. It sounds complicated, but it actually goes pretty quick once you get the hang of it. A 1/8" to 1/16" taper is good - that's what I use.
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I find a thickness taper of about 1.5mm every 6" works for ELBs. I often rough out to abot 2mm every 6", but usually ends up being the 1.5mm
Del