Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: BOWMAN53 on January 06, 2013, 03:36:06 pm
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So i accidentally cut it 1 1/4" instead of 1 1/2". Its 68" long, will i be ok? I'm aiming for 40-45# @ 29". I already asked some friends and they said i should be ok but it would take some set. I was thinking about recurving the tips to see if that helps with the set.
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Recurves and flipped tips add set as they reduce working limb length generally. No, thats not too narrow for that lighter weight and longer length. Heat temper the belly if you want to tighten it up.
Disclaimer: No its not ideal at that width, but it will still make a decent bow.
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Another way to prevent it from taking too much set is to trap the back (along with Pearly's suggestion of tempering the belly)
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Ok I'll keep it straight and I'll look up how to heat treat the limbs.
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With 1¼" wide, you won't be making a flatbow, but a longbow. This should be reflected in the tiller, meaning it should not have a stiff handle, but bend along the entire length (more elliptical tiller). As long as the grain is good enough and the tiller is OK, you should be able to make a decent bow.
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DarkSoul, a more narrow width does not mean that the bow will have to bend through it's length.
BOWMAN53, One of my favorite bows is a narrow hickory longbow that's no more than 1 1/4" wide and 68" long. Should be able to get at least 40#'s out of it.
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I've never made a Bendy handle and i don't wanna make my self even more uncomfortable.
Ryoon- how many inches from the tip do you start the taper on yours?
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Mine was full width to mid limb. Not sure how many inches that was exactly.
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Ok, I'll just make taper from mid limb
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DarkSoul, a more narrow width does not mean that the bow will have to bend through it's length.
True. What I was trying to say, is that a narrow bow will not taper uniform, as a pyramid bow or even a normal flatbow would. The smaller amount of width taper should be reflected in the tiller, meaning less circular and more elliptical tiller.
Apart from this aspect, I would also think that a somewhat short longbow (68" for 29" drawlength), especially made by a novice, would be best off to bend through the handle. Yes, you could leave the handle stiff, but that would probably mean more set (if nothing else) due to a shorter working limb length. I don't want to pull Bowman53 out of his comfort zone (although at some point he will like some more challenge), but I find a bend through the handle bow actually easier to make than a deep handled flatbow. You don't need to worry about fades and transitions, which makes it easier.
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temper and/or trap for less set.
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I third ( or fourth?) the temper/trap recommendation. Give it a good, deep, dark temper and it will minimize set tremendously and speed up the bow. keep in mind such a tempering will add up to 10# or more.