Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Bsmitty27 on January 08, 2013, 02:26:55 pm
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Hello from Edmonton
Starting a maple board bow. 66", 1 1/2 wide, 3/4" at nocks, walnut handle, want the bow to flex through handle. Was thinking of laminating a thin piece of maple to use as backing, was going to start with 1/4" and could plain it down. Thaught it would be better to have a little more than the 3/4' board. Ideas?
I am also wondering what thickness I should start the limbs at?
I'm looking forward to this project. And I think I found the right place to get some guidance.
Thanks in advance
Brad
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Forgot to mention I would like a 50lb at 27.5" draw.
Thanks
Brad
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You Wont be able to use a Walnut Riser and Get a bend through the handle bow, the riser is going to pop off. Also 1/4" is too thick for a backing, 1/8" is better, though if You just plan on backing Maple with Maple there's really no reason to do it at all.
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Hello from manitoba,never made a bow with a 3 /4 board but I'm sure someone will speak up!check out windsor plywood ,they sell 15/16 thick boards if you want to go a little thicker on your next one.good luck!
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If you want a bend in the handle bow you can build up the handle area with layered leather n be able to even shape it,or even with shoe insole material and a leather wrapping. And id just make it a simple selfbow for your first and skip backing it with another board. If you know what your doing then there's nuttin wrong with a maple backed maple,but your new and don't,so keep it simple at first...trust me ;)
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maybe thuis will help, bub http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
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Thats a great link, it is what I was working from. It just seemed like the <1/2" for the limbs seems thin. I guess what I was planning on doing with the thinner maple wasn't really backing, but adding a lamination to make a thicker stronger board, for a base to work with. I was thinking 3/4 would be too thin.
Should I just use the 3/4" board and not worry about the lamination?
Thanks for the info guys.
Brad
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your finished bow is going to be under 1/2" thick, Bub
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This is exactly the reason I thought we needed a build along like this , Bubby. Thanks again for stepping up to bat on this one.
Post a pic of the board you want to use ,Brad. If the grain is dodgy ,we might save you some time and grief. Also, what is the temp in Edmonton for the last few weeks? Just wondering about the moisture content of your maple. If it's too dry ,(maple especially) it likes to blow without warning.
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Thanks again everyone.
I will take some pics tomorrow. It has been mild for a week or do -10 c for lows. It's gun'a get cold this week though.
Brad
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The colder it gets ,the lower the Relative humidity (RH). As you may notice when it gets down to -40 , the air is crisp and clear and it doesn't snow. A Hygrometer is a good investment (about $10 ) . In your house 45-60 % is ideal but almost impossible to maintain when it gets below -10 C. If you have a heat exchanger\ air exchanger (Venmar etc) it makes the problem worse. now you are exhausting the moistened air in the house with dry air from outside. If your wood gets too dry it gets really brittle, if not dry enough it is too "spongey" and makes for a sluggish bow. We really have a narrow window of moisture content (MC) for "ideal" bowmaking. If you are making the bow in the garage, I would recommend bringing the bow in the house between sessions. Bathroom would be ideal if your better half doesn't object ;D . Just don't tell her it was my idea.
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More great info thanks. Here are a couple pics of the board.
(http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac270/bsmitty27/C1B86D83-E41D-4932-8E47-660120AE0990-5637-000007F864BF9CA0.jpg)
(http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac270/bsmitty27/5347BA38-D2C3-488B-B45B-BCE1E34902EF-5637-000007F86064E2B5.jpg)
Lete know what you think?
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Are you sure it's Maple?
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I don't know bows but I know wood.
It's from a mill in Ontario I got maple flooring from them, it's from a 5"x3/4" plank. The wood is a not clear maple its a 2nd grade so there is lots of color variation. I have lots leftover, not all grain is great. I thaught this was good grain but I don't really know.
Brad
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It's worth a try go for it, Ya gat noting ta looze. I'am just finishing a maple board at least it did not snap yet; unike Oak, that stuff is so grainy.
Male is a lot more for giving than most woods.
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Yeah, but you know those guys from Ontario,............. they might tell you all kinds of BS. ;) Just wanted to let you know about the moisture thing because in my experience, when the maple blows (especially if it's too dry ) it doesn't give you any warning,and it goes off like a gunshot.Most every other wood will complain a bit before giving up. Not trying to scare you ,just be aware is all. The grain doesn't look bad at all ,but you have to look at it from the ends,edges and the face to get the full picture. Is that the edges shown in the pics?
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Would you suggest backing it? I'll bring it in the house and try to convince my wife to keep it in the bathroom. The pic will be the back of the bow. It's only 1 1/2 " wide.
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i think 1.5 inches will work but it will take more set if you want to get a higher draw. 2 inches would take less set but will have a bit more massive, so its going to take set, you could bend the tips to reflex, but thats more that you have to work on. Set happens, its not going to stop the bow, just make a few fps slower and lower the draw a bit. not much of course.
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Is the edge grain as good as the face? That will be the decision maker. It looks to be rift sawn(end grain running face to face on an angle.) I prefer this cut for board bows (some don't) A backing will sometimes save a less than perfect stave ,but it isn't a miracle maker. It does tend to take some of the danger factor out if it blows ,but that's always a crap shoot. If the grain looks good, you don't need to back it. Lots of my bows are 1-1/2 " wide just start a little longer. Not a bad Idea for your first bow anyway. The tendency is to come in under target weight on first bows . If you leave it long,you can always Pike (shorten it ) to gain some weight. Kitchen or bath is the most humid in the house ,just make sure it's not over the heat register. Just about anywhere (away from wood stoves and furnace ducts) in the house will be better than the garage when it gets cold.
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If you leave it at 1.5 in and 3/4 inch thick wide you'll get 50#, if you do your job. If you rip it to 1 3/8 in wide you'll get 45#. Your first will be easier to tiller without a glued on handle. Back it with linen, burlap or silk. More on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
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I know everyone has their opinions. This one is mine. This bow is very smooth and accurate quick. I have many fine bows made of Osage, but this maple board bow is good enough to hunt with or anything else. It is 66" tip to tip. 1 1/8" wide, last 14" tapering to 3/8". 4" handle, 2" fades. Handle is 3/4" thick. At fades, limbs have an even thickness taper to 7/16" thick (6" from tips). Last 6" of tips remain stiff. Handle and fade sections are heavily heat treated to strengthen and prevent too much bend. Handle is built up with leather and wrapped for comfort. The handle will barely bend when fully drawn. Make this bow and make it correctly and you won't be disapointed. It is safe and effective. Also, it only has about 3/4"-1" of set.
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I would be ecstatic if mine turned out 1/4 as nice.
Thanks
Brad
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Need a little more help. I am following the link posted by bub but was wondering what should be used to laminate the handle? I was going to use a quality wood glue. But you guys would know best.
Thanks
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Hey Brad, I have two maple board bows and a red oak board bow that were
glued up using Tite bond three. That stuffs works fantastic.
Best of luck.
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any of the tight bond glues will work fine, Bub