Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bow101 on January 09, 2013, 06:33:36 pm
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It seems most shoot for 28" @50#.... I'am comfortable at 26" 50# give or take.
What dictates Length, Seems like most are between 60 to 64 inches give or take. Shorter bows are easier handling in the brush and top of a tree stand. Then again you cannot get the draw lenght from most shorty's.... :-\
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The right person with good tillering can.
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Thanks, but that does not answer my Question. "What dictates Length"
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I think that for most the rule of thumb is double your draw plus 10%, you can get a little more draw out of a shorter bendy handle bow, I've got a 60" bow I got from halfeye that I think could easily draw 30"
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also design, wood and skills as a bowmaker
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Seriously, a persons ability to tiller will dictate bow length. With a bendy handle, two times draw length is easily done.
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Seriously, a persons ability to tiller will dictate bow length. With a bendy handle, two times draw length is easily done.
"a persons ability to tiller will dictate bow length."
How do you stretch a piece of wood once it's cut....? :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
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Seriously, a persons ability to tiller will dictate bow length. With a bendy handle, two times draw length is easily done.
"a persons ability to tiller will dictate bow length."
How do you stretch a piece of wood once it's cut....? :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
what he means is the more skilled you are you can get a little more bend out of the wood, heck look at Blackhawk and halfeye's bows
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I appreciate the fact that some guys on here are very skilled. ME. "No" just starting out with this bow stuff. Having said that why build a Bow that is 58" total lenght versus 64" or 62", that is basically my question. And all 3 would be finished at 50#
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Personal taste. I can build about any reasonable length bow I want, but when it boils down nearly all my bows are 62-66" long because they shoot the best, handle the best and HUNT the best for me and my 27" draw length with 550-650 grain arrows.
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Personal taste. I can build about any reasonable length bow I want, but when it boils down nearly all my bows are 62-66" long because they shoot the best, handle the best and HUNT the best for me and my 27" draw length with 550-650 grain arrows.
Thanks Pearl.
I hope I did not make this thread confusing as to what I was asking.? :)
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Not confusing, just big.
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Type of wood, design, and the length you want to carry. I have a 73" elb that I enjoy pulling "all the way", also have a stout 59" hickory bow that is comfortable to shoot at a 26" draw.
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why build a 58" bow as opposed to 64" or 72" all boils down to personal preference, and some guys like to push the boundary's of their skill and the wood, you know, if your not moving forward your moving backward kind of thinking, this coming from the king of cookie cutter bows :laugh:
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Dont be so easy on yourself you talentless slug Bub.
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Dont be so easy on yourself you talentless slug Bub.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D, I hear ya pd,
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for 45#@28 inches, bendy handle, would you all say 66 inches is overbuilt?
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How wide? What wood?
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for 45#@28 inches, bendy handle, would you all say 66 inches is overbuilt?
Yes and no... :laugh:
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Hopefully the question asker checks back in. This conversation could get fun and would thoroughly answer his questions.
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white oak, hickory, maple, OSAGE, ash, 62" 29"50# should be fairly easy to get, sluggo
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Hopefully the question asker checks back in. This conversation could get fun and would thoroughly answer his questions.
lol.............. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: blackhawk's answer is the best one yet......"Yes and no... "
It's all comming to a close now. So pearly you can go Smack your Drums now...... :)
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for 45#@28 inches, bendy handle, would you all say 66 inches is overbuilt?
Yes and no... :laugh:
That's terrible of you >:(
;D
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Longer length equals more forgiving shooting, and smoother draw to given drawlength due to less stacking (all else equal). It is also easier to tiller due to more limb available to working duties. if you are knew, attempt longer bows. You will be more successfull in making shooter worthy bows, but if you just want to learn how to make a bow, try to make a 50" bendy handle static recurve of hunting weight at 28", or the like.
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I double the draw and add the non bending area in a prefect world. Neve really figured why most seem to tiller to 28 unless they think someone else may shoot the bow,I have watched a lot of folks[pretty big boys] shoot and very few draw 28 ,no matter what they say. :)
Pappy
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You talkin bout me pappy? >:D 6'6" 24" draw?? :laugh: :laugh:
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6 ft. 27" draw and I stretch to get there.
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When I started making bows, I kept the first few long and wide (working with white woods) which led to some early success. As I gained more experience, I was able to shorten them some and make them a little narrower. My eyes were really opened, however, when I received some bows from Half Eye. At 54" to 56", he really showed me what can be accomplished with good tillering skills. I personally like my stiff handled bows about 64" to 66" n2n and my bendy handled bows about 58" to 60" n2n. I have a 26" to 27" draw. Either can be shot from a tree stand depending on how much cover you have.
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The presence of knots,etc affect length. Bend in the handle bows can be longer. You need at least double your draw minus the non bending portion on your handle bow. Double your draw and add 10-20%. 62 inches is good for a 26 in draw. I like longer because I like no stack bows. Most people over estimate their draws anyway. Most people confuse pose draws with shooting draws. I draw selfies around 26 in on a no pain day. :) Jawge
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But longer does not always equate to a less stacked draw...I believe design and knowing where to put the bend is far more important than length when it comes to stacking issues. For example I have two similar draw and weight bows..one is 52" n the other is 64". The shorter bow is waaaaaaaaay more smoother and will pull a couple inches farther before feeling any sign of stack. Its also very visually noticeably faster than the longer bow..which common physics tells us the longer bow should be faster. And both bows are tillered per mass formula. What makes this so? Design and knowing where to put the bend.
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so you guys are saying build safe, and as a person gains experience start pushing design limits, experience level, types of wood limits, etc.
trust me i know theres far more too this wonder filled bow building endeavor, but i sometimes over think myself into setting it(the bow) aside and doing something else. instead of making the mistake for the simple experience. I can say most of the time it only takes once for me to learn from a mistake. Maybe thats my point gain your experience and everything you guys are saying will make sense.
chuck
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I always build safe. I build safe, solid bows I with which I can hunt and shoot 3d. Pushing limits is great when you run the 1500 meter race. :) Jawge
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But longer does not always equate to a less stacked draw...I believe design and knowing where to put the bend is far more important than length when it comes to stacking issues. For example I have two similar draw and weight bows..one is 52" n the other is 64". The shorter bow is waaaaaaaaay more smoother and will pull a couple inches farther before feeling any sign of stack. Its also very visually noticeably faster than the longer bow..which common physics tells us the longer bow should be faster. And both bows are tillered per mass formula. What makes this so? Design and knowing where to put the bend.
Hawk, how many degrees
do you normally cut your nocks at..?
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But longer does not always equate to a less stacked draw...I believe design and knowing where to put the bend is far more important than length when it comes to stacking issues. For example I have two similar draw and weight bows..one is 52" n the other is 64". The shorter bow is waaaaaaaaay more smoother and will pull a couple inches farther before feeling any sign of stack. Its also very visually noticeably faster than the longer bow..which common physics tells us the longer bow should be faster. And both bows are tillered per mass formula. What makes this so? Design and knowing where to put the bend.
I guess I was a little short with my first post. I believe this to be true and was exactly my point when I spoke of Tillering ability. I have focused on short bows for some time now and I think I can have somewhat of a valid opinion.
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60 inches is optimal length for a bendy handle bow for a 27 in draw.
Enough said :D
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Not for me.
Even more said :D :D
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Jon is the shortbow guru.
The quality of the stave does a lot to determine the bow length for me. If it has knots or other imperfections I'll make it a little longer. If it is a primo piece I'll go shorter. The bow I made with the bullethole in it was very crumbly osage. I made that bow a few inches longer than it should have been just so it would survive. My shortest bow was 49 1/2" long, sinew backed, and 50# at 24"
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I hate to go off subject but, Jon, i see alot of you guys like ken,half eye, and other who replicate some native bows. Do you guys think the natives drew 25-28 inches? You guys get a ton of bend out of these small peices of wood. Im wondering if the natives even drew that far back....
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I would say on the average probably not. Looking at Amerind bows though, there is quite a range in bow length depending on the tribe, region, and availability of wood choices.
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I've been making most of mine stiff handled and in the 58-62" range.The shortest I made was 55" and 27" draw,The longest draw I made one was 29" on a 6o" osage. Both of these were in the 50# range. I guess they say that 28" is standard but I don't know many guys that draw that much. Most I measure up are in the 25-27" range. I don't know why I ended up making them this length. I am going to make a longer one soon though just because I have't made many very long. I surely did enjoy the little shorty though. Makes it easier when creeping through the brush.
Danny
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Danny, look me up at OJAM and I'll let ya have a go at some legitimate shorties. 8)
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Seems not to be true for most on here, but I frequently get this question answered simply by the lenght of the piece at hand. More often than not, this is the limit. If I have the lenght to use, I see no point not to use it. If you want a short bow later, there will surely be a shorter piece around, from the longer one I make a longer bow, often it's as simple as that.
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I always build safe. I build safe, solid bows I with which I can hunt and shoot 3d. Pushing limits is great when you run the 1500 meter race. :) Jawge
That's me I will leave the high tech and speed stuff to yall.Good conversation tho.
Pappy
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I always build safe. I build safe, solid bows I with which I can hunt and shoot 3d. Pushing limits is great when you run the 1500 meter race. :) Jawge
That's me I will leave the high tech and speed stuff to yall.Good conversation tho.
Pappy
I recon that is just the way it is for us older folks!
I usually over build case that is what i want !
Now forty years ago that was a little different story !
Have fun !!
Guy