Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: spyder1958 on March 06, 2013, 05:28:31 pm
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!st let me say, I'd like everyone opinions and don't hold back because someone says something different. This is a learning curve and before I tackle my real good osage I though I'd play with this one.
History1800 from PP gifted this stave @ our rendezvous in jan. its been a challenge for sure. He told me steam was the way to go in trying to straighten it out. I tried it for one limb and got a lot of cracks. filled them with super glue and no spreading as of now. I dry heated the rest and no problems.
It still needs more straighting I think, but you all give me your thoughts. It still has some twist & the string is off center, I left as much width as I could after cleaning up the wood from the split its just over 1 1/4 for most of the limbs some curves are less.
What I'm calling the bottom limb had the most natural reflex with twist.
Tips are around 1" and lots to remove when done.
Its 70" now and I want to shorten, but wanted to play with getting both limbs bending even, re-curved the tips while trying to get some of the twist out. Its pulling around 30lbs @ 21"
Not sure how much I want to cut off yet (Feedback)
My draw is 25 1/2 and would like around 55lbs.
Some parts have been heated at this point but not all. So after even everything up and shorten and re-curve the tips I give it a good heat up.
Let me have it folks and thanks
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1055_zps7fadf5f6.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1052_zpscbd5ceb5.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1054_zps1491e610.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1049_zps507c559f.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1048_zps287c4eb0.jpg)
More in next post
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Man that is a funky peice. How about a picture of you drawing it to about 20 inches?
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(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1041_zps761a1878.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1060_zps33b15e0e.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1065_zps71002f2c.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1067_zps39a6d8cd.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1066_zps11334e7d.jpg)
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Better get her lined up through the handle. And I would cut 8-9" off total.
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(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1072_zpsa1081bd3.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/Osage1078_zpsd18e47fa.jpg)
Hope thats enough for you all to see everything.
both limbs have some snake and twist, that is making it hard and around 24" in from tips in the curve the limbs are slimmer that the rest of the limb, should I narrow the rest to match. right now the taper starts around 11 and 12" from tip.
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Man you guys are fast.
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That tiller looks good.
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Ok, wife got home and took some draw shoots.
1st ones will be with what I'm calling the top as of now.
The 2nd set will be inverted, looks like the bottom limb tips are moving and thats the one that got steam and some cracking.
looks like the mid limb on top needs more bend.
I find it hard to use the gizmo with the dips and twist at the low brace.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/002_zps2abe4d9d.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/001_zps947f1f09.jpg)
(Inverted)
(http://[http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/007_zps313955ce.jpg/img][img]http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/005_zps4b873bfe.jpg)
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Mmm invert photo didn't post, try again
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/007_zps313955ce.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n584/spyder1958/Osage/005_zps4b873bfe.jpg)
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Thanks chris and Dictionary.
does anyone use the gizmo with when you have a lot of reflex or dips and curves?
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Looking pretty good,and no I don't use the gizmo when it has a lot of humps and twists,it won't do much for you when a stave is like that,if fact it will cause you to take wood where you shouldn't. Top limb is a little stiff in the mid section,other than that looking good to me. :) Love the r@d should be smooth. :)
Pappy
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Looking pretty good,and no I don't use the gizmo when it has a lot of humps and twists,it won't do much for you when a stave is like that,if fact it will cause you to take wood where you shouldn't. Top limb is a little stiff in the mid section,other than that looking good to me. :) Love the r@d should be smooth. :)
Pappy
X2
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Thanks Pappy and soy. I'll get it a little more even and shorten her up a bit an put the finishing touches on.
She has a real smooth draw now pappy, the top limb is a little stiffer and you can feel it when drawn and see it in the photo.
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Just remember that you are fast running out of wood to hit 55lbs.
Shorten it now and aim to get it pulling full draw weight with good tiller asap.
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Lookin' good...
but if you want to hit 55# you should be pulling 55# right from the very start! As soon as it's floor tillered an on the tiller. (never more than 55#).
Ok, maybe you'll take it carefull on the initial flexing to make sure it's not waaaaay off, but pulling full weight helps you catch the prroblems befre they catch you.
Del
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Thanks guys, this is the 1st time starting longer limbs and then shorten after tiller. trying to get a feel for osage and how it reacts to different heat. its still around .600 to mid limb if I remember right.
It surprised me because i went from floor right to brace as you see it here. I guess I should have tried the long string sooner.
But being so long, I was thinking it would be plenty weight when I shorten.
Is there a guess at how much weight you gain by shorting, lets say 6". may go 8" to a 62". Heat treat and flip.