Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Squirrelslayer on April 04, 2013, 03:22:02 pm
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hi everyone im working on a hickory longbow. i have it at a low brace but these pics were taken with the tillering string that i a using. there is still along way to go but thats all for today, i will carry on tomorow. i have been told that i rush things so i going to take this one slow. im taking to my archery club tonight to get a second opinion on it fro a guy who makes longbows. comments welcome. thanks, SS
(http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o799/Jez_Walsh/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/893976_536499623059955_1781374618_o.jpg)
(http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o799/Jez_Walsh/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/892240_536528826390368_933887432_o.jpg)
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I'm new, but looks too stiff from mid to outer limb imo.
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yup, you're close, but I think the outer third is a bit stiff
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no it's not a pyramid the limbs are an inch wide. yes i noticed the orther 1/3 was stiff so ill need to give that another 20 scrapes. thanks, SS
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The tips look very thick. Are they narrow?
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The tips look very thick. Are they narrow?
they will be when i shape them. SS
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Lol. Zee ya skipping school today.. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
The tips look very thick. Are they narrow?
they will be when i shape them. SS
Looks like it needs to bend more everywhere.....whatever your desired pull is going to be..... ???
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Hrmm, if its not a pyramid, the outer half of the limbs need to bend quite a bit more....
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look's like you got it to full draw, why are the tips so thick on the belly side for such a short area, look's like built up tips backwards
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Itīs time for a normal bow string with a full brace!
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Itīs time for a normal bow string with a full brace!
i havn't even tillered it with a short brace yet :o :o :o how can it be ready for tillering at full brace ??? SS
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Because the current tip deflection (the distance the tip travels when pulled as far as pictured) is beyond a full brace height! Draw a straight line from tip to tip in that drawn picture: it shows more than full brace height, hence the bow can handle a full brace.
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Because the current tip deflection (the distance the tip travels when pulled as far as pictured) is beyond a full brace height! Draw a straight line from tip to tip in that drawn picture: it shows more than full brace height, hence the bow can handle a full brace.
yes but surley i need to tiller with a short brace first and then work up to tillering with a full brace? im fairly new to this as i have not really got this far with a bow before :-\ so from here on its quite new to me :o are you suggestiing i brace it and start tillering? also how many times do you exersise the limbs? ive been excercising them 100 times just to be on the safe side. thanks for all the replys given they have helped me get a better understanding of what im doing. SS
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I like to get to short brace as soon as I can, which is usually about 10 inches of draw on the long string. It will give you a better idea of how the bow is going to act because the string angle is different.
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Lol. Zee ya skipping school today.. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Haha we have some time of school to "revise" for exams. I wonder what subject makin bows comes under ? SS
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You should get it to full brace as soon as you can during the tillering process. Long strings do not give an accurate representation of how the bow will bend with the proper string.
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Lol. Zee ya skipping school today.. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Haha we have some time of school to "revise" for exams. I wonder what subject makin bows comes under ? SS
Would of been nice if we had Bow making in (woodwork) 9th grade high school in my time. Instead we made stuff like ashtrays, using the lathe. There was really no set program, the instructor/teacher just winged it. Building bows in the early 70's was not that big a deal then.
Keep up the good work guys....... :)
P.S. Squirrelslayer did not qoute that it was me........ :laugh:
Lol. Zee ya skipping school today.. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
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Why are you pulling it to full draw if you haven't got it to short string brace height yet? You have no idea where you need to remove wood doing what you're doing. You also haven't said anything about draw weight or length that I can see.
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Lol. Zee ya skipping school today.. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Haha well we're on spring break over here but after this there'll be a bunch of math tests and crap, ugh. Bows looking prety good.
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SS, my method of tiller (only because I can't see what's going on exactly during the floor tillering stage as some of the more experienced bowyer on here do) is"
First long string tillering. That is the string is TIGHT to the belly of the bow so as the bow has to bend in order for me to put it on the tillering tree. When I can bend it 6 to maybe 8 inches at my target weight I switch to short string.
Short string is 2 to 4 inch braced. When I get to 8 to maybe 10 inch at my target weight, I brace the bow.
NEVER pull the bow beyond your target weight.
All that being said, your tiller doesn't look bad. Get the mid 2/3 limb bending more. Don't scrape any more on the 1/3 near the handle until then. BRACE YOUR BOW NOW to see what it READY looks like.
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Tiller should be as near perfect as possible before EVER bracing a bow.
When asking for help with the tiller it is essential to be able to see the back of the bow so that the width profile is known - this determines correct thickness taper.
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Still don't understand that Mike. ??? Care to explane on another thread so as not to hijack SS's.
Pappy
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Squirrell, glad to see you posting some of your work :) it sounds like you have the right idea of taking it slow and excersizing the limbs between scraping. Overall, it looks good but slightly stiff. Slowly scrape and recheck your bends. Hedgeapple gave some easy advice to follow. Good luck!
Tracy
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ok everyone i have taken your advice, i scraped the outer 1/3 until it was bending evenly. i put it on a short brace and continued tillering with a short brace. i then went out onto a full brace and then tillered it from there. it was looking good and i mannaged to get it finnished. i put a few arrows through it and there landing where i want them to maybe shooting slightly to the left. to finnish im going to add a varnish, build up the handle with rawhide. and add a squirrel fur handle. ill get a full draw picture later on today. SS
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Good for you, "shooting slightly to the left" Mmmmmm check your alignment, is there any twist in the limbs..? how's the arrow shelf, you got a proper nock point, maybe you are naturally pulling to the left......... ??? ??? ??? ???.?
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Good for you, "shooting slightly to the left" Mmmmmm check your alignment, is there any twist in the limbs..? how's the arrow shelf, you got a proper nock point, maybe you are naturally pulling to the left......... ??? ??? ??? ???.?
All of this and your arrows might be overspined.
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All of this and your arrows might be overspined.
Is that what can happen with a right hand shooter.?
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Good for you, "shooting slightly to the left" Mmmmmm check your alignment, is there any twist in the limbs..? how's the arrow shelf, you got a proper nock point, maybe you are naturally pulling to the left......... ??? ??? ??? ???.?
No there is no twist in the limbs. I have been shooting of the hand so thats why it was shooting to the left. I took it down to the club today and it is REALLY quiet and there is no hand shock. Im thinking of adding a snake skin but im not sure where to get one here in the UK. I just checked and the bow is 10#@25" which is ok because im makin this bow for my cousin. Thanks for all your help everyone. SS