Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: AH on April 28, 2013, 01:20:46 am
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Just wondering what types of finishes do you guys like to use?
I've always used this sort of poly-based finish that the Construction crew left at our house after remodeling.
I've heard of people using Linseed oil, tung oil, polyurethane, deft, and True-oil. Isn't that for gunstocks?
How do you get that shine on the finish? Also, are there any primitive finishes (animal fats and oils, perhaps? Beeswax?)
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I always use tru oil. It's alot of work though.
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Tru-oil
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Tru oil
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I have lately been using a pine pitch/lard/beeswax combo that I really like.
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I just posted how I do finishes on the removing scales on a snake skin thread. It is worth a look. I have tried every finish you can dream of in twenty plus years and the one I have been using the last ten years is by far the easiest and most durable, it is also easily repairable which I think is critical in a hunting bow that sees hard use. Tru oil would be my second choice but has several major draw backs. It yellows with age, it is shiny, it tends to crack over snake skins and rawhide, it seems to scratch easily but it is easily repaired. I built a bow for a guy who lived in Hoonah Alaska I choose to heat several coats of wax into the bow then I wiped I down with denatured alcohol then four light coats of tru oil. I built that bow 12 years ago and it is still going strong with no refinishing in probably the wettest climate in the USA.
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I now have a PVC dipping tube full of varnish which gives a nice shinning coat. Also works for arrows. SS
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WAX AND HEAT
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Deft is a nice finish and its cheap
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I use Tru-Oil with most bows and yes it is a gunstock finish but works well for bows. Tru-Oil dries with a high gloss shine. I prefer a matt finish so I do a quick spray of satin poly over the Tru-Oil.
I have also used hand rubbed bear fat on a few bows with good results.
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I rub mine with vegetable oil mixed with crushed pumice, for a flawless matte finish.
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Might consider switching over to mineral oil, Bryce. The Veg oil can turn rancid and even promote mould in the right conditions. Just a suggestion. I'd hate to see something like that happen to one of your fine bows.
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To clarify what Bryce was saying, he uses a tru oil finish and then buffs it with a mixture of vegetable oil and pumice to create a satin finish on the tru oil. No vegetable oil stays on the bow. Gordon shows the process in his hazelnut D bow build-a-long. I do it too, it's amazing.
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To clarify what Bryce was saying, he uses a tru oil finish and then buffs it with a mixture of vegetable oil and pumice to create a satin finish on the tru oil. No vegetable oil stays on the bow. Gordon shows the process in his hazelnut D bow build-a-long. I do it to, it's amazing.
Yes!
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I use shellac as a stand alone finish or topcoated with tung or linseed oil. I use the dewaxed flakes and mix in alcohol as needed.
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I started out using spray on polyurethane and deft. Didn't like them very much, especially in satin. I mostly use danish oil now which is a mixture of polyurethane, denatured alchohol, and boiled linseed oil. It's easy to touch up and refinish later if need be.
Massey finish is killer too, pretty much a mixture of epoxy and acetone. The problem is it's harder to touch up if you get a scratch in it.
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AHHHHHHHHHHH! thanks for clearing that up Weylin! I use the same technique but with Rottenstone and lamp oil or mineral oil as the lubricant. The Rottenstone is just finer and leaves more of a gloss. (mostly for cabinets) Be carefull not to breathe that stuff in .(http://)
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I have used mineral oil for some time on a lot of other projects. I will dry over time but I seal it with a coat of poly. I know its not primitive but....... ::). Maybe next time I'll try a coat of mineral oil and finish off with bees wax
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tru-oil