Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: KrisDelger on May 14, 2013, 06:16:44 am
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Alright laddies and gents nice to meet everyone I'm Kris I'm a complete novice when it comes to making bows and I've been trying my damndest to complete a functional successful bow. So far I've been mostly attempting board bows since they seemed to be easier to make and I don't really have the experience chasing rings (I'm going to give that a shot in another three months once the lovely ash staves I have hidden away in my shop have finished their year in seclusion.)
So long story short I have managed to detonate 8 board bows in the past few months and it's really starting to hit me at heart and make me feel like I'm not going to get anywhere. I've been mostly working with Red Oak, and Maple, (Buying some hickory and yellowheart on payday), I really love working with the pyramid bow shape but each of these bows has failed on me. Whats bothering me is that they haven't been the same types of failures. A few have raised splinters that then cracked the bow, one was a glue failure between the handle and bow while tillering, two failed after I'd gotten them to a point where I was very pleased (Both pulled about 50pounds on my scale but after the first 20 shots the first bow managed to delaminate the horn I'd overlaid onto the wood -most likely my fault- the second bow for some reason I can't comprehend decided to just release the lower mid-limb and crack itself in half after 10 arrows.)
Needless to say it's pretty disheartening but I'm not going to give up! If you aren't breaking bows you aren't making bows right? I'm currently sitting with three more boards of red oak to try and work and a board I've just started to shape into a nice pyramid. I'm going to try a Mollegabet next just because I love the looks of it.
So what I want to know is this; is there anything ANYTHING that I can do during my prep to increase the chances of having a successful bow?
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If possible post some pictures of the failed bows. We learn so much more from the broken ones than the successes.
Its quick and easy to get a free photobucket or similar account online. Then just upload your photos to that, then copy the [IMG line just under the photo and paste it here. Apologies if this is sucking eggs.
Only stupid questions are the ones that are not asked.
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I should have thought to take pictures of them throughout their builds but alas I didn't and that is my mistake not recording their short lives. The one I'm working on right now I've been taking pictures of it the whole way and it's turning out okay so far but for right now it's clamped up waiting for the glue to dry. I'll be posting the result of the current bow success or failure
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When I first started I was hell bent to build a pyramid,but after many failed atempts I decided to try a D bow.I made it 72 long. The handle out to 10" from the tip was 1-1/2" wide the tapered to 1/2".made from an elm board with less than prefect grain ,but it held together and is still shooting to this day.it was not heavy @ bout 42# @ 28 but it was a great feeling to have a shooter!a bend in the handle long bow of that lenght is very forgiving of newbie mistakes!good luck!
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this will give you a good starting point, just remember to go slow and take your time when removing woodhttp://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
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Post pics as you make progress, and we'll help you.
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IMO were you over-stressing the mid-limbs? keep in mind they aren't as wide, so they have to be less strained.
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Board selection is number one,but personally I hate boards.
You may need to try a backing.
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In my opinion it's easier to be successful building with staves than boards. If building with boards the grain has to be just right or it will fail as a bow, staves are more forgiving. See if you can secure a stave and find a good instuctional book. Traditional Bowyers Bible 1,2,3 or 4 are all good, and there a lot more good ones. PA itself is a good source of information and the guys love to help! Whatever you do, don't give up! You will eventually succeed!
Dale
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Its hard to give advice without seeing pics, but with boards you have to have the right grain or wont hold together.
Also you shouldnt need to chase a ring on ash. Just peel the bark and your good to go. But i HAVE had to chase a ring on ash to get below bug damage so it can be done if needed.
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Well since most everyone is telling me to try a stave I'm now left asking; where can I procure a seasoned stave for a reasonable price? I'm pretty much open on the type of wood I'm up to try it! I just don't want to get into the Ash stave I have right now since it's not quite ready yet it's still much to moist I believe....then again I may be wrong.
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Kris - start reducing the stave. It speeds up the drying process. Bring the bow to floor-tillering point and leave it for a few days before bending it in any way. That seems to work for me with ash. Also - ash is easy to chase rings on.
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Will do! Results as I have then!
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don't let these yahoos get you all biased to boards, they make great bows, most all the lam bows on here are from boards and if they were staves they decrowned them and in essence made a board, I know most on here prefer to work a stave but there ain't nothing wrong with a board bow
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X2
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There are 3 important things to consider when choosing a board-grain, grain and grain. More on my site. Kris, I can go on if you are interested. Check my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
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Find a hickory board with straight grain, or, the lines are perfectly straight all the way from the top of the board to the bottom. Then post pictures on this site and we'll help you make it.
Buy a 1x2 (or bigger) and a board about as tall as you (or taller), then come here.
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don't let these yahoos get you all biased to boards, they make great bows, most all the lam bows on here are from boards and if they were staves they decrowned them and in essence made a board, I know most on here prefer to work a stave but there ain't nothing wrong with a board bow
Well said... agree 100%
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I love boards, but unless you have near perfect grain, back it. I believe adb has said "backing a board is just good planning" I've got a nice gash in my head because I thought the grain was "good enough".
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Find a hickory board with straight grain, or, the lines are perfectly straight all the way from the top of the board to the bottom. Then post pictures on this site and we'll help you make it.
Buy a 1x2 (or bigger) and a board about as tall as you (or taller), then come here.
I've had less breaks with hard maple and white oak than hickory, maple makes a better board bow than hickory imho, just my experience, makes a faster bow that is not as moisture unfriendly as hickory
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Alright so what I'm gathering is woods to look for are: Hickory, Hard Maple, and White Oak? Just want to clarify this to myself so I don't end up picking up the wrong lumber. Also that Ash stave is still sitting pretty on my shelf since I couldn't bring myself to bite into it yet, I want to finish a board bow before I do that
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2 solutions as I see, as you are presistant as you are. #1: back your next board bow with silk and TB11, OR just jump in and get yourself an osage stave and go for the rings, it ain't hard and I'm sure you'll do very well. Lots of advice here if you need.