Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Dane on May 23, 2013, 09:17:22 am
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Hi, kids.
You may recall my creating a thread for a Spanish crossbow around the end of last year. Here is a new project that is coming along well, and the primary purpose of this one is to try out some new or modified design and building processes.
I won’t make this very detailed, but just post some pictures and answer any questions anyone may have.
Basically, though, this is another Spanish crossbow, made from yellow heart, as was the last one (since I had some leftover wood and find this particular wood just so nice to work with), but I have modified the design to allow for the use of a foot stirrup to span the bow, something that wasn’t done with the actual historical bows. They were military weapons, and so had a relatively high draw weight of 500 lbs. +. That of course was more than sufficient against the lightly armored / unarmored enemies the Spanish were facing in the New World. And since they had higher draw weights, they were never built to be spanned by hand, but with goat’s foot levers.
I expect this weapon to be done in the next few weeks, in time for the New England Primitive Skills Gathering in Woodbury, CT in June. Always a great event, it will be fun to run the 3D course with this crossbow (not for score, of course).
Enjoy.
Dane
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/newcrossbowbuild0032_zpse369eec0.jpg)
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Last shot was the tiller blank planed and ready to be worked on. Here are more shots:
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/newcrossbowbuild0142_zps34f15ed8.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/newcrossbowbuild0272_zps97565cd9.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/latestcrossbowpics0032_zpsc8cd3206.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/latestcrossbowpics0072_zps4bfb0ae4.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/latestcrossbowpics0302_zps411d34ed.jpg)
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More shots.
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/latestcrossbowpics0392_zpsd08cb67f.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/nutconstruction0122_zps510a9b34.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/nutconstruction0272_zpsb066ad96.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/mortisingmachine0072_zps5b9238b5.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/mortisingmachine0192_zps29af9373.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/mortisingmachine0242_zpscaf70dfe.jpg)
That is all for now. Thanks for looking. Ask questions if you wish. More pics as I take them.
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looking good dane
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Dude, BEAUTIFUL! I like traditional crossbows(wood stock and steel or wood prod).
They are pretty and awesome:P
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Thanks, bubby. And thanks, Thesquirrelslinger. I find crossbows addictive. I have three going at once right now.
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Loking Good Sir!
I do enjoy watching your Work... :)
-gus
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Always good to see your stuff Dane.
I've just got myself a small lathe (19" bed) off FleaBay. The spindle and front bearing were worn, so I sent if off to be built up and reground. It came back this morning, it's superb :).
Gonna be handy for turning nuts and stuff for crossbows. Can't wait to get it up and running, I was building a new bench last week and we are just setting off to my Mum's for her 90th Birthday... so I gotta wait another day or so.
Looking forward to the next step of your build.
Del
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I'm liking the look of that crossbow! SS
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Gus, thanks so much. Last night, I found out (again) just how razor sharp those little curlicues of steel are after drilling a hole for my trigger pivot pin; suffering for my art again. :) This one should be done in the next two weeks, if I don't loose too much blood.
Del, that is a BEAUTIFUL little lathe. It should look right handsome when you restore it and have it working again. A 19" bed will be more than enough for crossbow parts. Happy b-day to your mom, too.
Thanks, Squirrelslayer.
Dane
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is that trigger round trigger thing made from horn? looks smart. SS
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I think you mean the nut. It is actually made from Delrin, an engineered thermoplastic. The color does make it look a bit like horn, which is why I chose that color. Nuts can be made from a variety of materials, including steel, brass, synthetics, and antler. I avoid actual horn, as it can delaminate. I'd say 75 percent of the nuts I make are antler, but that is an expensive option. A stem sufficiently large will run about 80 dollars, vs. less than a dollar for the same amount of Delrin.
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Man, I hear ya Dane...
This is quite a Blood Thirsty "Hobby"... :)
I don't know Del... That Old Lathe looks pretty Played Out...
But beings I'm Such a nice guy, I'd be happy to Row Over and take it off your hands... >:D
It looks Lovely from Here...
-gus
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could cast epoxy work for a nut? or a steel-reinforced wood? I only have a tiny amount of osage....
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I have a (possibly confusing) question. Actually, a couple.
If I were to make a wooden prod, would it be better to make it such that the string bisects the handle as per hand bows, or offset?
When mounting the prod to the tiller, do you want it to be that the string on the tiller is not applying torque to the prod at brace, or at full draw, or somewhere in between?
Does that make sense?
Dave
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Dave, I think I get the second question. I mount the bow at about a 6 degree angle. The reason for that is that at full draw, you want the string to be centered on the bolt, which rests on the tiller top in the bolt groove. The string will be clear of the tiller top through most of the release, and rests lightly on the tiller top (called the table) when the string is at rest. There will be no torque at all on the prod because you made the back of the tiller socket at that approx. 6 degree angle. If it was mounted with the back of the prod socket straight up and down, the torque would be impossible, and the string would be worn out within a shot or two. Be sure to keep in mind that you don't want the prod socket so tight that it causes the tiller to split, as there are a lot of forces involved in that area.
For the first question, the string should be centered on the prod, just the same as if it were a self bow.
Here are two illustrations to show what I am talking about. Let me know if this makes sense.
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/sixdegreecropped_zps7d21429e.jpg)
(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/Danemitchell/tillerdimensions_zps03577f31.jpg)
Those measurements assume you are using the exact same prod as I am. The specs for this prod are 110 lbs at 11.5" from the back of the prod to the nut fingers. 3.5" at brace, and an 8" draw length / power stroke. You would of course adjust for any prod you make or get, so if you have a wooden prod / bow that is braced at say 5", and your draw was an additional 10", the nut finger point will be 15" from the back of said prod.
Hope that clarifies.
Dane
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could cast epoxy work for a nut? or a steel-reinforced wood? I only have a tiny amount of osage....
Cast epoxy may, but I have never heard of anyone trying that. You would need a mold, for one thing. Delrin can be purchased from online plastic dealers for only a small amount in the form of round bars. Why reinvent the wheel?
For steel reinforced wood, that is actually a medieval practice. You would want the grain configuration running up and down so the fingers of the nut don't sheer off under draw weight. Drill and sink two steel rods into the fingers and all the way through the nut. 1/8" at least, but 3/16" would be even better. I know one crossbow maker who uses hardwood for his nuts, and his bows are hunting weight. Choose a very strong hardwood if you go that route such as ash.
Dane
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Man, I hear ya Dane...
This is quite a Blood Thirsty "Hobby"... :)
I don't know Del... That Old Lathe looks pretty Played Out...
But beings I'm Such a nice guy, I'd be happy to Row Over and take it off your hands... >:D
It looks Lovely from Here...
-gus
One of the prime ways a demon inside a machine can be released on a slaughter spree is when someone bleeds on said machine. Keep that in mind always. :)
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I hear ya Dane... And agree.
I take the Blooding of my Tools and Weapons seriously...
I charge All of my weapons, Blade, Bow and Firearm with my own LifeBlood.
Always have even as a child. Superstition? Maybe... But it has worked for me.
I think the saying of which you speak refers to blooding someone else's weapon.
Or perhaps a weapon built, charged or used under questionable conditions...
I also soak my Tools and Weapons in the light of a Full Moon.
And Cleanse Tools and Weapons in Earth.
I burn Tobacco and Pray over my Tools and Weapons as well...
Who's to say?
Guess I won't know the truth of it all till I step into the Next World...
Maybe...
:)
-gus
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Gus, if you get there before me, try and come by and let me know what to expect. Beers are on me. :)
Seriously, though, I've felt and seen enough ghosts in my lifetime to be a little humble about the "afterlife." Not as bad as The Six Sense, but enough to know I have a gift (dubious perhaps) of some sort. Last one was a child named Don, who I think likes me, or at least puts up with me enough that I am not too worried, but I still won't sleep in his former room.
I do have a friend who can't go into antique stores. She hears far too many voices attached to the old things, and they don't always have pleasant things to say. Tools are such powerful things and we invest so much our ourselves in them, that I can understand what she is dealing with. The particular store in question I got a wonderful old broad hatchet at last summer that was likely used by a ship's carpenter, since the entire collection was from a guy who specializes in nautical things.
More work last night, and the finger is healing. Looks like I will make my personal June deadline. So, more photos soon.
Dane