Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: swamp monkey on May 25, 2013, 09:46:43 am
-
I shoot longbow. I have an arrow with a feather that cuts my hand where the arrow passes. It looks like each feather is seated well. Feathers were cut with a chopper and it looks like that leading edge is little rough but not much. Should I sand that quill on the shaft, take the feathers off and sand, or use thread to wrap over that? Any one out there deal with this successfully?
-
I put a thread wrap on the front end of the fletching of every arrow I make. This has helped considerably. I also started using a floppy rest on my bows and that small piece of leather has really helped to protect my hand.
-
I wrap mine they don't cut in to my hand then.
-
When I glue down my feathers I will take a sharp knife and trim the front edge to make sure the quill has a smooth transition to the shaft. Then I will take a small dab of glue and cover the point of the quill. When this dries it creates a small bubble that is smooth and won't catch your skin. Thread wraps are another good fix for this, but the glue trick has become a quick easy fix to save my hands.
-
you can cut down the leading edge some....add a dab of glue on the leading edge to keep it from catching on your hand or anything else while also securing it more....and you can get or make a bowhand leather shooting glove that is made specifically. I really only see them in warbow shoots but really a partial glove with the leather covering thumb, forefinger and web area of bow hand.
-
you guys are awesome! thanks for the tips. I have a weekend to play with this. I am stoked.
Enjoy your weekend!
-
I wrap the front of mine with thread, also try raising your nocking point just a hair
-
I wrap the front of mine with thread, also try raising your nocking point just a hair
+1
A slightly higher nocking point will take care of it...
Jon
-
Along with all those other great ideas, when you are getting ready to glue on the fletchings take a little time and sand the front of the fletching down from underneath. That helps make a very gradual transition from shaft to fletching.
-
Back when I shot off my nuckle I used a leather grove. I just saw yesterday on my new 3 river catalog on the second page. Called a HAWKWOOD BOW GLOVE. VELCRO AROUND WRIST GO'S OVER HALF FIRST FINGER AND THUMB LEATHER NUCKLE COVER. Never owned one But looks really good. Gets cold here a glove work the same. Check it out.
-
I am just finishing a set of arrows that will not bite, I have set the leading edge of each fletching down into the shaft ( about 0.5 mm tapering to zero at 70mm) and they are Real Smoothies.
-
I put a thread wrap on the front end of the fletching of every arrow I make. This has helped considerably. I also started using a floppy rest on my bows and that small piece of leather has really helped to protect my hand.
I do the exact same thing as the great bearded one ;) ;D
-
I strip my feathers , there is no quill to bite ya, just a thin skin glued to the shaft, It works for me an seems to hold up just as good as a quill, an it's alot faster than grinding. Bob
-
I trim mine and then take a round screw driver and roll it,down flat,then a dob of glue or like others said thread wrap it,or both,can't stand that bite. :o
Pappy
-
I sand the edges down and wrap it with some thin string (I use separated hemp cord from wally world). They are very attractive and don't cut the hand.
-
The last couple of dozen arrows I've made, I've taken to wrapping B55 from fletchings to shaft - if nothing else than for aesthetic reasons (helps to colour-code to the bow etc) but just yesterday I fell foul to "shootin' groups" and tore off about an inch of the tail-end of a feather with another arrow.
Now I gotta strip the B55, the damaged feather, smooth the shaft, re-finish it (black auto paint), glue on another feather, then re-wrap new B55...
Oh the price we pay for our vanities 8) ;D
-
Vain for sure. I'd just shoot it "as is" until it flat wore out or got lost!
-
I do the same as Outback Bob. There must be some disadvantages or everyone would do it, though I've never had any negative results. It's super easy, and way quicker than cutting and sanding each quill. Dale
-
As others have said, taper the front end of the quill and add that drop of Duco. I never use a rest on my self bows and never get cut.
Jim Davis
-
Used some super glue around and on the wrap, got it a bit think in a spot , ripped my hand to and knuckle up, filed it a bit , reglued , no probs. :o
-
I use clear nail polish on the wrap instead of ca glue
-
Vain for sure. I'd just shoot it "as is" until it flat wore out or got lost!
Me too. That's always my way of dealing with a fletching that gets a section torn off at the back end. I straight fletch my shafts, and even with one feather totally missing, they fly pretty good. (I refletch those when I come in from shooting.)
-
Success! Because the flething was already on the arrow I decided to leave them on. I filed the leading edge down some and wrapped the front part of the fletch with upholstery thread.
Nary a fletch bite to be had.
Thanks for all the tips. I feel better prepared to deal with future arrow sets and trouble shoot future problems.
You guys are great.
-
In my experience this is mostly a Tuning problem. I often get shouted down when this question pops up around the campfire in my neck of the woods because it's too hard and besides Traditional Archery Equipment is simple ????? Correct Arrows Spine Brace Height and Nocking Point are best established with Bare Shafts, there is plenty on the Web on how to do this.
Once Correct Spine and Nocking Point and Brace Height are established then follow the excellent advice given so far in regards to trimming the Quill.
With a Tuned Bow and Matched Arrows it is no problem to shoot with wet Feathers that are laying on the Shaft, they will Fly straight and True. With Hunting Arrows the extra thought and effort really pays dividends with cleaner Arrow Flight and better performance penetration wise from the Arrow. Our Forefathers knew this stuff hence the old saying about any Stick will shoot an Arrow but a good Arrow is a heap of work. I'll add any Tuned Stick will shoot an Arrow to the Phrase
regards Jacko
-
I do it same a Pappy - works great. At the Marshal get-together My Bud Wirwicki got sliced pretty good. He's just finished a set of arrows - the leading edges had been wrapped with thread. Using a CA glue to fletch and secure the wrapping. First shot sliced the dickens out of Him. On inspection, there was a tiny curly-cue of glue (think of the top of a soft serve ice cream cone) on the wrapping. OUCH ! Bob
-
I seal fletching wraps with super glue and when it cures I sand it with very fine emory cloth, add a bit more glue and sand it again. It is like having a solid band and it is smooth.
Another thing I started doing is adding a Floppy Rest to shoot off of. It still feels like you are shooting off your hand but the floppy really protects your hand.