Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Otzi on May 30, 2013, 01:47:07 pm
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Started reading the bowyers bible three weeks ago and decided to try something. I decided on lilac and cut down the straightest piece I could find. After a couple days of drying I split it in half and this is what I got. Is there anything I can do to save it? I have it clamped to a board but it is not 100% flat. Any advice or pointers would be awesome.
Thanks
Otzi
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Mmmmm. I've read wonderful things about it and I think that the bow pictured on the front of TBB4 is a lilac bow.
I've read that you have to be very careful and very patient letting that stuff cure or it will fret and twist, etc.
Patience is a virtue with many bow woods! Good luck with it... :)
I'm mistaken...the TBB4 cover is plum.
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I've made slingshots out of lilac, and I know that in order to prevent catastrophic checking and splitting, you need to put a good coat of glue etc on thos cut faces..... Might be too late ( lets hope not!)
A wood that in my experience polishes up like bone... VERY dense and springy too... I have staves earmarked for cutting later this year.....
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Thank you for your kind advice. I took that pic right after I finished with the draw knife and promptly coated it with Elmer's. I am more wondering if there is a way to get the side to side sway out of the stave... Or is the answer to pick a straighter one next time? The two ends and are parallel with each other and line up with the middle of the bow. Can a shootable bow be made if the side to side sway cannot be fixed?
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I dont know about Lilac, but it does look difficult. Use steam to bend.
Parnell: the bow on front of TBB4 is Purple Plum :)
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Steam and clamp to a caul to straighten/reflex is your best bet.
Tracy
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Personally I'd let it dry down 4-6 months then use dry heat to correct it. Its not done moving yet. If you steam it straight now there is a chance it wont be in a few months. My philosophy is let them wander all they want until dry. Then use dry heat to correct them. There is no wrong or right, just different ways.
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Let it dry, then dry heat bend it after you've reduced it to near-bow dimensions. No use bending wood which will wind up on the floor.
Michael
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oh my goodness let it dry slowly! multiple layers of sealant on the back and ends. give it significantly more time to dry than other wood. It cracks at the slightest whim and will twist up pretty easily. Its best to leave it whole with the bark on for a year or more. It is already in half so clamping it down is a must, just make sure it is sealed well and forget about it for a few months.
NNB
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Thanks for all the replies. I currently have it clamped down as flat as I can and have two coats of Elmer's on the belly... Should I have some on the back, bark, too?
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Just wondered how it's going? Interesting post.
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It's currently drying, and I'll try to remember and post updates once I start on it again. I've started experimenting with American elm and honey locust while this one dries.