Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: toomanyknots on July 05, 2013, 11:32:10 pm
-
Well I guess I should use the word "experiment" lightly, as most people on here probably would not have to have an "experiment" to find this out probably... but I did, :). I have been making r/d bows and flat bows in general that are tillered and ready to string and go right after nocking and cleaning up after glue up. I have been width and thickness tapering my lams though to do this. I figured though, with a straight pryamid width taper, I really shouldn't have to thickness taper my lams at all, I should just be able to do the same consistent thickness for both backing and belly lams. (except for the power lam of course). So I tried it out, doing a consistent thickness for my maple backing and my ipe belly, and it worked just fine, only tillering I did was slightly weakening one limb with a scraper to get a balanced slightly positive tiller. Other than that, soon as I strung it, it was ready to shoot! (I know it's really not a big deal, but it means a lot less work on the belt sander for the same results, so I am nice and happy, lol) I don't have the exact dimensions at hand right now, but it is basically a pyramid bow glued into a r/d design. Hard maple backing, ipe belly, buffalo horn nocks. 32# @ 28", about 60" nock to nock. Also, I do realize I have a bit much deflex in the handle, ::). I just made like 3 forms, I think I killed my drill in the process, and still need to make another obviously with about ten times less deflex... Oh well, here's some pics:
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2173.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2173.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2185.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2185.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2189.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2189.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2212.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2212.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2204.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2204.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2193.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2193.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2209.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2209.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2205.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2205.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2207.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2207.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2261.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2261.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2268.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Maple%20Backed%20Ipe%20RD%2032%20at%2028/DSCN2268.jpg.html)
-
The full draw profile makes me think of a mini Yumi bow. 8)
We all start with experimentation. Some of these experiments work, some don't but we learn from them all. ;)
You didn't give dimensions but if you start with a thinner backing and thicker belly the draw weight should go up considerably, especially with an ipe belly. Ipe likes to be narrow and thick.
You did a real nice job on the detail work.
-
The full draw profile makes me think of a mini Yumi bow. 8)
We all start with experimentation. Some of these experiments work, some don't but we learn from them all. ;)
You didn't give dimensions but if you start with a thinner backing and thicker belly the draw weight should go up considerably, especially with an ipe belly. Ipe likes to be narrow and thick.
You did a real nice job on the detail work.
Thank you Pat B! With these self tillering pyramid bows, my plan is to, (after I make a new less deflexed form, and decide on the right length and all), to take down all the dimensions and final draw weights of these bows so I can eventually rip out a belly lam (or a couple) at a certain thickness and get consistent results. Like if I want a 55# @ 28" bow, I will know what thickness to go with, that will give me that draw weight, and it will be easy and simple to adjust per draw weight since the only differing factor will be the thickness for the most part. (Probably not all too realistic with how wood varies and all, but I can dream, ;D).
-
Omg that bow is beautiful how do you get such a professional looking finish on your bows ?
-
Omg that bow is beautiful how do you get such a professional looking finish on your bows ?
Haha, thank you. I think my camera makes the finish look better than it really is, lol. I sanded this bow to 2500 and than just a couple light coats of pure tung oil. (the real stuff from woodcrafters, I like it better just because it smells good and not toxic like home depot or lowes "tung" oil. It smells all rich and nutty, like trail mix or something. I like the way stuff smells anymore just as much as it looks or functions, haha. Like, for example, I like how much my classical guitar smells in the soundhole just as much as I like the way it sounds anymore... ;D)
-
Great looking bow toomany. I like the style of these deflex handle bowsbthey are a joy to shoot. You nocks look great
-
very nice bow! Smooooooooth comes to mind. 8)
-
Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice.
-
missed this one on the front page......interesting bow....nice work...
it looks like maple and ipe work well together, I was wondering about this combo myself
Dave
-
I like that a lot TMK. Lot's of deflex, but I wouldn't say too much by any measure. Sweet!
-
Thanks guys!
-
Very nice job,I'm with Cody,bet it a smooth shooter. :)
Pappy
-
So you can still build bows without the hair Samson! Nice cut and experiment TMK.
-
So you can still build bows without the hair Samson! Nice cut and experiment TMK.
Haha, what do you know! ;D
Very nice job,I'm with Cody,bet it a smooth shooter. :)
Pappy
Thank ya Pappy!
-
Nice. I have something similar in the works. PM me with thicknesses if you wouldn't mind.
-
Nice. I have something similar in the works. PM me with thicknesses if you wouldn't mind.
Thank you, :). I will post the thickness and widths in a couple minutes, and pm them to you too.
-
Praire Bowyer,
- backing is about 1/8" consistent thickness
- power lam is 19" long and 1/4" thick in the middle,
- belly is about 7/32" thick with a consistent thickness
- limbs are 1 3/16" wide at the fades, with a pyramid taper to 7/32" where the overlays begin,
5/32" at the actual nocking points.
- handle is 8 1/2" long
I did round the belly off a bit though. I will say, while this worked great for me, in retrospect I have been making reflexed normal flat profile pyramids, and for some reason they have not been bending correctly from the get go. Both of the ones I have made like that (the maple backed jatoba pyramid I posted is one of them) were bending all at the fades from the start, and I had to tiller the outer limbs to bend, which I shouldn't have to be doing I thought. I don't know if it is because I am reflexing them about 3 inches during glue up, or my power lam is not long enough or done right, or what. They seem to want to hinge right where the powerlam begins. I am thinking maybe I could use a thinner longer power lam on these? (the power lam I used on these was shorter than this r/d, they were like 12", both handles were 8 1/2". I have made a bunch of normal red oak pyramid selfbows, where I could just shape the bow and string and shoot it, with zero tillering. Part of me wants to make the power lam a bit gradual in it's incline, like a hill, and not a wedge, because that is how I do my fades usually. If I can't figure it out, I am just gonna start thickness tapering again...