Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: rkeltner on July 07, 2013, 01:48:39 pm
-
having made a big purchase of 25 bamboo slats, i'm interested in suggestions for the ideal core wood for a boo back and belly bow. i'm looking for the lightest possible way to get 50 lbs., give or take.
-
James Parker makes his boo backed and belly bows(Cane Dragon) with a multi-lamed core of maple laminated horizonally. Probably most of the whitewood bow woods will make a good core.
Have you built a boo backed/belly bow yet? There is more to it than just adding boo on the back and belly of a core.
-
this will be my first, so the learning curve is large! all suggestions are appreciated! :laugh: O:)
-
Just like with a FG bow everything has to be figured ahead of time as far as lam thicknesses and design. Plan on using mant of your boo slats before you get it figured out.
Have you built a boo backed bow yet? I'd say start there and work up to a boo back/belly bow.
-
I have done boo backed, but that seems to be little different from hickory backed. I hope to use the boo for something resembling one of the Asian or eastern Europe composites, in time.
-
Maple or erc maybe
-
What about poplar? Seems it would be lighter than maple most of the time, and stronger than erc? Plus you can get it about everywhere. Anybody heard of poplar used as a cord? I also have considered mahogany. It seems very light, lighter than maple, and it is strong enough to use on a guitar?
-
Maple is the perfect core wood.
Sycamore is also a maple but lower s.g. than hard maple and works very well as a core wood.
The properties for a desirable core wood are something that is diffuse porous, has excellent gluing properties and is good in sheer.
Heat treat the belly slats before glue up to a good deep brown. It also helps to use any slats with more of a crown as the backs.
Of course you need to pre-tiller the strips bearing in mind the width profile you are going to use. To begin with i'd advise using a pyramid width taper this means that you don't have to worry about getting an even (and correct) taper on both limbs, you are simply aiming for arc of a circle tiller pre-glue up. Using a powerlam is the way to go to stop any excessive bend inner limb. Just keep it simple on the first few.
-
Consider black cherry.
Mike, keep it simple on a boo backed and bellied bow? Is that possible? :)
-
keep the advise coming!! I like information overload! the more the better!
-
Any wood considered bow wood will work if done right....and if done right all should and will weigh about the same mass wise,and will shoot so close fps wise your naked eye might not know the difference...my advice is to use the best available to you ;) and design it accordingly ;) ....good luck...sounds like your in a lil over your head...(no offense)
And are your referring to trying to make a asiatic style horn bow with a boo back n belly?
-
in over my head is how I learn best!!! ;D :o ::) as for the composite, i'm thinking something along the hun style horsebow
-
James Parker made an Asiatic style bow that is boo back and belly. That thing is a screamer!!! 8)