Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: ncpat on July 10, 2013, 03:53:04 pm
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I just gathered a few cane stalks that the DOT mowed down along a roadway. I see that often, the sections between nodes have a flat side & they often are opposites of the next section. About a 30 inch shaft may have 3 sections. Flats may run left, right, left again. Are these still worth trying to make arrows from? If not, I can use them for other stuff. I hadn't noticed that before.
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If the diameter is right for arrows and the canes are at least 2 years old they will make arrows.
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Post pics, there are many types of cane... Not all are arrow material
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If one side is flat between nodes it is most likely a type of bamboo. Cane will be almost completely round except for a small area where branches grow. The flats have no bearing on whether it will make an arrow as long as the walls are thick enough and the arrow has enough spine. Like pat said if its two yr old should be good. If its 1 yr old shafts will be really flimsy (i.e. not enough spine)
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Spine doesn't really matter off of a centershot bow ;)
Anyway, just sand down your nodes after straightening and you should be good to go. I know exactly what you are talking about- it has a short little spiky branch growing out, then until the next node it is flat or even concave! its OK if its flat or concave- but if it REALLY bothers you you can sand down it to round after straightening(but its much weaker in both spine and strength, 'cane gets weaker as it gets closer to the center, only 1/8th inch thick walls or thinner, much of my stuff is from 1/12 to 1/20)
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River cane(Arundaneria gigantia) has a pronounced sulcus(the indentation above a node). It like hill care are native to the US as is switch cane (A. tecta). All make good arrows with river cane being the less desirable. River cane grows to 12" to 15" tall. Hill and switch cane both grow to about 6" or so. There are lots of Asiatic imports all around the Southeast and elsewhere. If you can get a piece old enough, long enough and the right diameter it will make an arrow.
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Squirrelslinger you say spine doesnt matter for cane? Have you ever made an arrow from 1st year growth and shot it. The correct way to describe the characteristics of cane/bamboo is to say a much wider range of spine will shoot well from a bow compared to a shoot shaft which will have a shorter range of spine that will shoot well from the same bow. Im tired of you and Bowslayer chiming in on every post as if you all have done everything. Listen/read more and talk less
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+1 :) C K
Pappy
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CKC, +2 and Thank You!!!
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Easy on the fighting, please. We are all here to learn, share & opine.
Trying to post a pic, having major trouble. I am a dinosaur with computer files.
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Best pic I can post so far.
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Squirrelslinger you say spine doesnt matter for cane? Have you ever made an arrow from 1st year growth and shot it. The correct way to describe the characteristics of cane/bamboo is to say a much wider range of spine will shoot well from a bow compared to a shoot shaft which will have a shorter range of spine that will shoot well from the same bow. Im tired of you and Bowslayer chiming in on every post as if you all have done everything. Listen/read more and talk less
A range of spine from #25 to #125 has shot fine from my centershot fiberglass bow. #50@28. I have the privilege of knowing what the arrows we are talking about will be shot from ;) I have used first yr cane for many kid arrows and many arrows for my recurve.
it isn't as durable, but a 3/8" will shoot fine if seasoned. a 2 yr shoot is harder, stronger, and denser than 1 yr material.
thanks for the pic.
Within reason, spine doesn't matter with cane and a #40-50 centershot recurve.
(for the matter, I don't spine my cane arrows for 2 reasons- they shoot fine, and it requires effort)
I have had my recurve for several years now and I have made several hundred arrows for it, mostly shoots, but with some dowels and hand-made shafts in the mix.
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...A range of spine from #25 to #125 has shot fine from my centershot fiberglass bow. #50@28. I have the privilege of knowing what the arrows we are talking about will be shot from Within reason, spine doesn't matter with cane and a #40-50 centershot recurve.
(for the matter, I don't spine my cane arrows for 2 reasons- they shoot fine, and it requires effort)
I have had my recurve for several years now and I have made several hundred arrows for it, mostly shoots, but with some dowels and hand-made shafts in the mix.
I think it's pretty safe to assume that the OP is shooting a self bow, not a center shot fiberglass recurve. So he actually has to worry about paradox.
They do not shoot fine, they waste some of that 50# draw weight wiggling like a wet noodle.
I give up on explaining the dangers of shooting too low a spine.
When you have to dig fiberglass, cane or wood splinters out of your bow hand because you insisted on shooting arrows rated for half the draw weight you shoot, you will have a more intimate understanding of the theory than I could possible convey through words.
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SS you are great at taking other people's threads, did you know that?
Ncpat, let that stuff dry and make some kick-butt arrows, I'm exited to see what you do
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Best pic I can post so far.
Sorry for feeding the troll bro. Those will make some good arrows. You know how they should shoot 8)
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I think what he means is the closer to center shot the bow the less archers pardocks comes into play. SO THAT BOW WILL SHOOT A LOT WIDER ARROW SPLINE.
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??? Not trying to be contradictory but 854 posts (in 4 months) would generally lead me to believe that a member was an experienced old timer especially if I were a newbie to PA. This is not the case!
Opinions are a dime a dozen. Some that state their opinions are well read with very little actual experience. I prefer street smarts to book learning when it comes to advice on my questions. Just my .02.
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With the pronounced nodes I'd say it was river cane if it is a native cane. Does it grow tall(12'-15')?
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??? Not trying to be contradictory but 854 posts (in 4 months) would generally lead me to believe that a member was an experienced old timer especially if I were a newbie to PA. This is not the case!
Opinions are a dime a dozen. Some that state their opinions are well read with very little actual experience. I prefer street smarts to book learning when it comes to advice on my questions. Just my .02.
The problem with advice on the internet is that its hard to know when its coming from an inexperienced 14 year old.
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My main bow is a Ben Pearson Cougar recurve, center shot, 47 lbs at 28". My draw is 26" so my actual pull is around 43 lbs, figuring about 2 lbs per inch, as I saw a formula listed on 1 site or another. My wife has a 35 lb Bearcat recurve takedown. Importance of spine with center shot has long been a question of mine that I had not yet posted. It would seem less important with wrap around/deflection not being an issue, but arrow should still be sturdy enough to hold up to the thrust. My daughter's bow, OTOH, is not center shot & is much lighter, about 20 lbs. Anything too stiff will flop off to the left and be very hard to aim. At that weight, I would think very few arrows would be too light. Most storebought arrows were too heavy and flopped left. I made 1 arrow from a 1/4" dowel that shot fairly straight & fast. She lost it same day though. I made 3 others from dowels that she has not had a chance to try yet.
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With the pronounced nodes I'd say it was river cane if it is a native cane. Does it grow tall(12'-15')?
Yes, I have seen a few of them 15', maybe a little higher. Largest are about an inch to 1 1/4 at the base. I see cane or boo on some roadsides about 5 or 6' high, less than an inch thick. Haven't had a chance to scavage any of that yet. It is on stretches of freeway with narrow shoulders. Hard to stop in heavy traffic. I need to go early AM and cut a few.
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With the pronounced nodes I'd say it was river cane if it is a native cane. Does it grow tall(12'-15')?
Yes, I have seen a few of them 15', maybe a little higher. Largest are about an inch to 1 1/4 at the base. I see cane or boo on some roadsides about 5 or 6' high, less than an inch thick. Haven't had a chance to scavage any of that yet. It is on stretches of freeway with narrow shoulders. Hard to stop in heavy traffic. I need to go early AM and cut a few.
That sounds like cane, most of the stuff I have seen is from 10' to 20'
In general, native bamboos are heat and cold tolerant perennials that prefer rich, consistently moist and slightly acidic soils with a pH of 6-6.5. All but Hill Cane are evergreen. River Cane is the largest of the three, reaching heights of River Cane 6-30 feet and spreading as far as is allowed by soil and water conditions. When mature, River Cane can tolerate periods of running or standing water and full sun. Switch Cane grows to heights of approximately 6 feet at maturity when grown in excellent conditions, which includes consistently moist soils (as found at seeps and along streams) and shade generated by large trees such as pines and oaks. Hill Cane grows to approximately 6 feet and prefers to grow in the shade of mature trees on well-drained slopes or swales, especially common around seeps and springs in its native habitat. Switch Cane is the only deciduous native bamboo.
http://showmeoz.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/americas-native-bamboo-identification-culture/
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NcPAT, they should make good arrows if 2yr old culms (shoots). Bamboo deposits silicon in it's cell walls over time and first year culms haven't done much of that yet. Most culms live two years and then die off. Cut or pick up the ones that are turning brown. Sounds like the state or whomever is cutting down a patch to keep it from spreading.
Also, when making arrows, be sure to put the nocks on (or self-nocks) so that the 'flat spots' or leaf nodes face up or down when the arrow is on the string. That will put the stiff side of the culm against the bow (which is where you want it).